First time pulling my back wheel

Started by Tfrank59, June 09, 2016, 22:20:29 PM

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Tfrank59

well I got mine back together yesterday and it went like a dream. yeah and I put plenty of antiseize on the Fasteners and grease on the axle. it's so much easier then my shaft drive bike haha

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

allstateguy

Current bikes/projects:  1982 Yamaha Vision; 1967 Yamaha 180 Bonanza; 1974 Jensen-Healey

KEN.

Glad you found that a useful info tip...KEN.


allstateguy

I just pulled my rear wheel to do a sprocket change. Very easy on a lift with the wheel at elbow height. Taking the rear fender off reminded me of a tip from long ago. Open the end of the lower right side fender brace so you don't have to pull the bolt all the way out to go on or off. The muffler gets in the way, but no more. I don't remember who posted that tip, but about 30 seconds with my air cut-off tool, and I can look forward to the next time it comes off.
Also should finish installing my new clutch tomorrow. Nice that Kawasaki made the lower right portion of the frame detachable.

Current bikes/projects:  1982 Yamaha Vision; 1967 Yamaha 180 Bonanza; 1974 Jensen-Healey

CDNRatMan

  Lik I said I applied a thin coat of grease to all the surfaces that rub/met/touch, and once things are back together, and before everything is tightened up I would clean off any excess grease and leave no place for dirt or debris to collect.

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

Tfrank59

Well one thing it's a little odd to me is that Kawasaki didn't do that axle grease thing on assembly. all indications are this is the first time that rear wheel's been pulled on my bike, first tire change, and that axle was without any lube.  that's kind of what made me bring up the subject

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

CDNRatMan

 I took a page from the Book of Troll I used marine grade grease in my wheel bearings, and I coated the axles with a thin coat on them prior to installing them, and I have never had an issue in removing them in the fall.

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

Tfrank59

#11

Hey thanks for the advice. That's about how I was planning on approaching it. Now with my other bike I recently had a big problem about corrosion on the axle – I went about 18 months without having to pull the front wheel and when I did I had to beat the axle out of there because I failed to put antiseize or waterproof grease on the axle. The axle got all rusty and wouldn't slide out without a lot of hammering. It really sucked having to beat on my bike. So I don't know about everybody else but that's what I plan on doing from now on with every axle I install--coating it with antiseize and/or waterproof grease. What say you?

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

CDNRatMan

  if you want I can make it easy for you......or let you figure it out on your own..............

If you have a pair of extra hands it will be easy, if not then sit down behind the bike get comfortable, the wheel is in its place all the parts are close to you. Get the chain on the sprocket, axle handy with the chain adjuster already on at the end, then use a couple blocks of wood to prop up the wheel as you slide the axle into place and then have the spacers in place this is where the second hands come in handy, but you can do it alone just be slow and easy. The caliper bracket is the only pain i ever have.....

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

Tfrank59

Well I pulled my fender and back wheel today. Totally painless. I don't know what I was thinking wanting to pull the wheel with the fender on – no way ha ha. And it's really cool how once I unbolted the fender everything mounted on the fender came with it like I said totally painless.  Also really cool is how very little wear to everything – brake rotor, rear sprocket, chain etc. it all looks like new and I'm at 10,600 miles! Anyways thanks everybody for your input – it's what these forums are all about.

So I take the wheel down to the shop with the new tire and tube and hopefully all goes well and she goes back together just as quick and painlessly ;D

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

CDNRatMan

  It is six bolts three on each side, and then und plug to undo which happens to be under the seat. I leave my sissy bar and all on the bike when I take the fender off, the travel trunk and that can stay on but sometimes it is easier to just undo the few extra bolts so I have more room and easier removal.

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

Tfrank59

I'm thinking the issue isn't taking the fender off but everything that's mounted on top of it on my bike

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

CDNRatMan

If you leave the fender on look at how high you would have to lift the bike to get the wheel out. Removal of the fender is so easy and then you have so much more working area, well worth it.........

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

Troll

Fender comes off pretty easily, makes the job REALLY SIMPLE

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

Tfrank59

Dang, I did not know the fender had to come off. Yes I have a lift, and I can get that bike up pretty high if I need to – still have to take the fender off though?

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

Trall

Agree +1
Also place a towel on floor under rear of fender once you have fender loose if your not careful holding it will hit the floor fast


CDNRatMan

Well seat has to come off,
fender has to come off,
At this time it would be prudent to check the amount of play in your rear sprocket and see if the rubber dampers need to be replaced in the rear hub.
One thing do you have a lift? Makes life really easy, any lift to get the tire off the ground, it is as easy as the book said it would be;
loosen the axle bolt after removing the cotter pin, loosen and remove the chain adjuster bolts, remove the axle bolt, block up the tire and move it as far forward as you can, remove the chain from the rear sprocket, pull the axle, be ready for the Caliper mounting bracket to drop out and a couple of spacers.
Simple as that......
Should be a good hour or so of work, the first time you remove it........well if you're old it will be........ 

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

Tfrank59

So I have to change my rear tire, and I haven't had the rear wheel off before (nor the front one for that matter ;D), so can you guys give me any hints or tips to make the experience oh so enjoyable? Yes I have the manual and have read it, but there's always stuff from peoples experience that is worth much more to me. Anything about reassembly that you might want to share would be appreciated as well. Thanks a lot.

Tom

'06 Drifter 800, '98 Valkyrie

"HD: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the pesky effects of horsepower."

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