New project, restore used engine

[Troll]

To check the bearings, the crank must be removed.....if everything else seems to be decent, and there is no funny business when you take the covers off, I guess I would chance it....These engines have a very automotive bottom end, with car style plain bearings, so they are probably going to be all right....It was just a thought....

[Elmo Hayride]

I am going to avoid splitting the case unless something unusual comes up when I pull off the L&R covers. I soaked the HLA's and 5 are good and 3 on order. Yea, the valves I will check real careful especially from the growth/corrosion that was on the intakes (seen when I removed the throttle body).

Do I need to split the case to check the main & rod bearings?

[Troll]

That's a good sign there is no serious wear on the engine. Are you planning on splitting the cases? You should check the main and rod bearings. One thing I would suggest is that you either soak the hydraulic units in a STRONG solvent, or replace them. I have one of the 8 that sometimes bleeds down and will click...very annoying. Check the valve stem/guide clearance very carefully. In this day of nolead fuel, valve guides wear more than they ever did.  Maybe when I get 150,000 on the engine I will tear it down and replace them all...93,000 on it now, and that's the only issue.

[Elmo Hayride]

It sure is nice to have the people in this forum to assist when there's a question CDNRatMan.

Troll, we (machinist and I) measured the wear and clearance and everything is in spec (0.06604mm piston/cyl clearance).

[CDNRatMan]

  I had replaced the front fork oil in bikes before, never have I done as much work on a bike as I have on the Drifter. Reason is because I have confidence in my skill set to a certain point, I know when I am outside my comfort zone that help is now an e mail away or forum distance. I have rebuilt the complete front end of my bike, and GB and Troll were more then readily available to answer my questions, not sure if they wanted to but they did. The info on this forum is outstanding in learning from and to gather ideas and tips. In return when I did my rear shock I documented it all and took plenty of pictures and notes and posted what I did so the next person can get the idea.

[Elmo Hayride]

Granted, some people have little to no mechanical skills. If one is willing to read, absorb, and experience I truly believe just about anyone can fix their bike. Most of the work is equation exact and well documented.

[mittico68]

mittico68, to be fair, my knowledge about mechanics comes from reading and trying.

If only it were an equation exact (reading & proving = ability), I guess we all should be able to do everything...
But there are so many variables that make the difference between a good mechanic and a bad theoretical!

[Troll]

And so...it begins!

[Elmo Hayride]

Here's the 1st shipment of parts I got today.

[Elmo Hayride]

That's great Troll, thank you for your input. I see that the factory provides over sized pistons and rings for that very issue. I'll measure it to see where I'm at.

[Troll]

The fit of the piston thrust skirt is VERY important to engine longevity and overall noise level. A loose piston will knock when cold, and may stop knocking when hot...or may not. This will not only make for a noisy engine, but there will be a penalty in performance and oil control. The piston is not round, but rather oval, and the piston skirts are at 90 deg. to the wrist pin. Scoring and/or wear will cause the clearance to be too great. Depending on bore diameter, it might be more useful for long term use to have the engine cylinders bored first oversize and fitted by an expert machinist/engine builder. I see you have a factory manual, so look at section 4, pages 4-5 and up to get the specs.

[Elmo Hayride]

mittico68, to be fair, my knowledge about mechanics comes from reading and trying.

[Elmo Hayride]

Troll, what is the skirt clearance? I am not a veteran mechanic by any means so if you could use layman terms I'd really appreciate it

[Troll]

Did you check the skirt clearance yet? Looking nice is one thing, but the wear factor is more important. The manual specifies a minimum of .00169 inches to a max of .00275 inches.

[mittico68]

Awesome report!
Ehy Elmo, I'd like to have all your knowledge about mechanics, just to be able to avoid spending money each time ma-deuce (& my car too) needs a check...

[Elmo Hayride]

It was a combination of washing and bead blast. I'm glad I didn't need to buy new pistons.
I hung the engine on a trapeze rig I made a couple of years ago. It's a lot easier than working on the ground.

[Bucko]

What did you use/do to get those pistons so clean?

PS: Thanks for posting the pictures - very interesting.

[Troll]

I thought, from your earlier posts, that this was a REPLACEMENT engine......my mistake.

[Elmo Hayride]

Yes John, the insides are good. The new parts will be a bit but it will be nice to have a spare 1999 1500. The heads and such have been cleaned (boiled) and shot at the machinists shop and will be finished (how I don't know yet) powder/painted.

[John Hopkins]

It does look very corroded on the outside but the inside looks quite good, I think it was a very good investment for only $100.

If you have the use of a shot blaster that could look really good in a short time..the cost of gaskets and o'rings and nuts and bolts is going to put a dent in your christmas present money..

I wish you every success in your project, but even if it gets too much for you the parts will make you a good profit on ebay.

John.

[Elmo Hayride]

Not sure what you mean Troll. This is an extra motor I bought.

[Elmo Hayride]

I believe all of the rough areas are due to salt air corrosion. I bought the engine used for $100 so I don't know what if anything was an issue due to the retainer.

[Troll]

Sooooo, what was wrong with the original engine? No salvageable parts?

[Bucko]

Wow, that casting is quite rough in spots.  How much of that roughness is due to corrosion?

Also, was that goofy retainer causing any problems?  Hard to believe that wasn't caught during assembly - unless they're not hand assembled ?

[Elmo Hayride]

These pic's detail how I had to remove the coolant pipes from the heads and the corrosion of the surrounding aluminum requiring help from a welder.