Looking for collective wisdom...

[Gooseberrie]

Hello, Perhaps you just touched something critical when working on the engine like the emergency stop switch. Engine will crank but not turn over. An old stop/run switch may not function after one attempt putting it back in position.

Another good one: you have put the bike into gear when taking out the oil screen or looking for the oil filter. No green light. A neutral switch failing is tested with the clutch engaged. The lever has a bypass switch.

You incidentally pulled one of the spark plug caps. I know this is a twin spark but one of the plugs could be bad.

The oil filter is to be filled with oil partially. I hope the plastic film is taken off its opening, in that dark spot, when people don't.

By the way, I had the front brake maintained by a professional yesterday and all functionality is lost.

[Sparks500]

Batteries don't come "fully charged". They have to be charged for several hours before use. Failure to follow new battery instructions will shorten the battery life dramatically.

[John Hopkins]

Installed a new fully charged battery (old one was from 2010), changed plugs.  Engine cranks very slowly and then clicks.  I'm at a loss.

You have to start a logical train of fault finding..

You need a Digital multimeter ($10 from Home depot)

You need to measure the voltage across your new battery while it is installed, if it is less than 12.6v dc then it is not fully charged.

If you have 12.6v or more without switching on the ignition trace the thick wire from the + terminal of the battery to the starter solenoid.. move the red meter lead to the solenoid, do you still have the same voltage reading or do you have a loose connection.. Move the black meter lead to the frame, do you still have the same voltage or do you have a loose connection.

Do that first and report back.

One step at a time, the next step will depend on your test results.

John.

[greenbarn]

Sorry I should have been more specific, the clock mode of the 'Odometer' (for lack of a better term) display.  The odometer won't reset of course (trip meter probably does though) but the clock will reset due to low voltage when starting using a hooped battery - even though the static battery voltage measures 12+ volts.

Another version of the "load test".     Yep, if the clock resets, the battery is "really" bad.    But it wouldn't have to be that bad to cause no-start conditions.

[Bucko]

Sorry I should have been more specific, the clock mode of the 'Odometer' (for lack of a better term) display.  The odometer won't reset of course (trip meter probably does though) but the clock will reset due to low voltage when starting using a hooped battery - even though the static battery voltage measures 12+ volts.

[CDNRatMan]

you guys got a clock?

[Troll]

R models have the digital clock as part of the electronic instrument cluster. My R was built in July of 2000, #99 of the series, and is a 2001...

[Bucko]

If your digital (do all Drifters have a digital clock?) clock resets when you hit the starter on a 'charged' battery, you need a new battery.

[greenbarn]

Installed a new fully charged battery (old one was from 2010), changed plugs.  Engine cranks very slowly and then clicks.  I'm at a loss.

Either 1) your new fully charged battery is not really fully charged 2) your starter is bad or 3) you have a bad connection either at the battery or at the starter.  Sounds more likely line 1) or 3)  due to the fact you said it cranks slow, then clicks.

1) test the battery.  Needs to have at lest 12 volts (should be 12.3-12.5) at rest.  During, and immediately after trying to crank the engine, it should still hold around at least 10 volts (really should be a little higher)- exact number depends on the temperature (this is a load test)

2) check connections at the starter and the battery - both the B+ and the ground.  clean any corrosion.   "wiggle" the connection as you are tightening it to make sure of good contact.

3) You can try to boost the battery with jumper cables, or a booster box, if you have doubts about the battery.

4) you can isolate the starter if you need to, by using jumper cables from another known good battery or a booster box, to test the starter itself.  This would be trickier, but can be done.

[FloridaDrifter]

Installed a new fully charged battery (old one was from 2010), changed plugs.  Engine cranks very slowly and then clicks.  I'm at a loss.

[John Hopkins]

Oil level was checked and a-ok.   I'm going to trickle charge the batt tonight.

Trickle charging the battery is not the same as checking it.. You can trickle charge a faulty battery until hell freezes over and it won't fix it.

Test the voltage after it has been standing for at least an hour, expect 12.6v dc. then try starting it and switch it off and measure it again, expect 12.6v dc..

John.

[FloridaDrifter]

Was running fine before the oil change, but I think you're right, the battery is failing.  I probably haven't noticed because its happened over time.  I'll start with a battery charge and see if that cures it.

[JagLite]

Was it running fine before the oil change?
Had you run it to warm up the oil?
Has it been starting fine before?

[greenbarn]

Changed the oil & filter.

Now bike will crank but won't turn over and oil light comes on.  Here's my plan of attack.

1)  Plugs (going to change this weekend, they're due)
2)  Fuel injection clogged?  (is there a "low-oil" sensor that may have gotten clogged?)

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Can you be more specific??  Turning over is the same as cranking.   Perhaps, does it crank, but won't crank fast enough to run??  The fuel injection needs GOOD voltage to make it work.  If the motor is cranking slowly (doesn't even SEEM that slow) then it will not get fuel and will not run.   On the oil light - you would expect the oil light to be on unless it is running.  The engine has to build oil pressure (has to be running) to turn the light off.

My suspicion is the battery is failing.   Need to have around 12.6 volts, and it should never drop below 10 or 11 volts when cranking. 

[FloridaDrifter]

This will sound silly but..

Check the oil level.

check the battery voltage.

John.

Oil level was checked and a-ok.   I'm going to trickle charge the batt tonight.

[John Hopkins]

This will sound silly but..

Check the oil level.

check the battery voltage.

John.

[FloridaDrifter]

Changed the oil & filter.

Now bike will crank but won't turn over and oil light comes on.  Here's my plan of attack.

1)  Plugs (going to change this weekend, they're due)
2)  Fuel injection clogged?  (is there a "low-oil" sensor that may have gotten clogged?)

Any ideas would be appreciated.