Starting difficulties

[ramakins]

This whole lil ordeal for me was self enduced. I pinpointed my mistake, musta happened when I rebuilt my hypercharger, and did not seat the connector properly, when reinstalled @ begining of season. So, would have to say the Vulcan is still a pretty reliable machine.
Upside was I learned a lot more about my bike.
Stay Happy Folks.

[chief]

Happy to hear it.

[ramakins]

After reading the fault code correctly, lead me right to a loose connector, pretty cool. Well, got me to do some wire management, And learned a lot (knowledge is a good thing), spun out a roll of electrical tape, couple of bags of ties. Also got me to remove the PC111, brought it in house & remapped it, smoothed her out like a babys bottom side, impressive lil gadget. Took her out on Sunday For a 75 mile spin, split city & highway, all systems go, except better (credit that to the PC111)...

Thx for the input Chief.

Stay Happy

[chief]

The floating connection could cause all sorts of problems. Using an appropriate sealant is likely a good idea... I haven't done it on the bike much. I have used it on other vehicles though.

[ramakins]

Checked out fault code #13 (inlet air temp sensor), @ ECU...

Standard reading= 2.6v
Actual reading    = 7.6 v
Manual not in front of me right now, but a couple a paragraphs down, said something to the effect of, if reading is much higher than specified, something about an open wire I think, then the reading would come back as 7.6v, the actual reading i got.

I looked @ the IATS located behind the base of the right air cleaner on stock bikes, in mycase, behind the hypercharger. I went to  my connector, it looked like it was on , when I touched it, it was not locked, rather just floating, I locked them together, turned key to on position, FI led went away. Although I am pleased with the progress, am now wondering if that was the source of original symtoms? I will read some more and try to be more observant when puting wires back in there perspective places.

While I got her semi, dismantled, I will spend some time doing some wire management, visually checking, retaping, routing, tieing,ect. Manual says I should silicone @ every point I poked and proded, connectors, ECU, ect... suggests to use silicone. Someone told me about a petroleum type sealer I can get @ an auto parts store, that u put on the connectors, he gives it a big thumbs up. What do you folks use for sealing, if any???

I have to say it is nice having a place like this to vent when these mishaps occur, and talking to folks who had similar experiences, and,or knowledge of, and resorces." BIG THUMBS UP".
May we all have an enjoyable and safe season of riding. Stay Happy.

Thanks for all your input Chief, & members.

[ramakins]

Chief,
Downside- also the FI led lit-up, after self diagnosis test, got a fault code # 31 (vechicle down sensor). Checked votage readings going in & out, tilting it one way then the other, all with-in paremeters. Guess my next step will be to check the wiring to & from it...

PLEASE EXCUSE ME BEING A WINGNUT... For all this DFI buisness is new to me, and work in progress... Dejavu> kinda reminds me of when I got my 1st. PC...

The fault code I am getting is # 13 (inlet air temperature sensor), not #31, Derrrr.

Time to read a new chapter.

As always,
Thanks

PS- sorry for the brainfart

[chief]

Good work.

When the VDS is activated it cuts off the fuel pump, ignition system and fuel injection system.

Resetting the sensor usually only involves raising the bike to the vertical and cycling the ignition on/off.

So its sorta strange you are getting fuel pump activity if the sensor is activated.

You have to remove the sensor to test it.  With the ignition off, reconnect the sensor to the harness. Connect a positive test probe (voltmeter) to the yellow/green wire in the sensor connector and the negative to the black/yellow wire. Turn the ignition back on. Hold the sensor so the arrow is pointed up and read the voltage... then tilt it at least 50deg and read the voltage.

Upright should be in range 0.4v to 1.4v
Tilted 50deg = 3.7-4.4v

If I were you, I'd run the ECU fault code retrievel process again to verify the code... then run the vehicle down sensor test.

If the main relay and VDS tests are good, you likely have a bad fuel pump.

[ramakins]

Made progress today. After removing PC111 last evening, as I stated, the symtoms were the same. Went back to square one again following manual, checking  continuity on the ECU ground connectors, and ECU power source connector, then checked 15amp DFI fuse again. This time it was fried ( I think it might have happened last evening, but not positive), anywho, replace the fuse, turned on the ignition switch, and that sweet sound of the vulcan fuel system powering up was music to my ears. Rechecked ECU connectors stated above, all was within parameter readings. Then before ordering another PC111, thought I reconnect it, just to verify, turned the key, she powered up, and PC111 also seems to be back on-line.

Downside- also the FI led lit-up, after self diagnosis test, got a fault code # 31 (vechicle down sensor). Checked votage readings going in & out, tilting it one way then the other, all with-in paremeters. Guess my next step will be to check the wiring to & from it...

Has anyone out here had experience with this fault code or the sensor itself, inquiring mind would love to know... Thx

[ramakins]

Well, disconnected the PC111, but symtoms are the same... Not sure where to go from here. She was running nice before this problem arrived, stoped to put on another layer on my body, went to continue riding, turned her on, did not hear her power up...
Could a bad ground be the culprit?
As always, input appreciated.

[chief]

Sounds like the PCIII may be fried. I've heard of this on other bikes and it ended up being a bad pcIII... I think I'd remove it and see if the bike will start.

Of course, make sure you have a good battery and that all connections are good first... start with the simple.

[ramakins]

1) fuel system not powering up when I turn ignition key on.

2) starter motor is turning when ignition button is pressed

3) Lights turn on- blinkers work.

4) No power to PC111 when I turn ignition key on ( correct chief, no inline fuse on pc111).

5) If I am reading my mutimeter correctly, i did the following

a) checked the following ECU ground leads for continuity per manual, #s 8-16-24-32. all readed @ 0.03 (manual readings are 0).

b) checked the ECU power source voltage per manual - connection #31 - negative, did not get a reading with ignition switch on. ( should be 12.5 or better)

c) battery voltage is 14.40

Input appreiciated, Thx