Hello all, I am trying to help my friend get a 2001 drifter 1500 working again. history as I know it. the last owner bought it, used. decided to learn to ride one night and hit something in a field. damaged the head light and one back signal light. After than let it set in a garage. My friend acquired it bought a new battery, and now we have issues.
Here is what I know, the bike looks like it in is great shape, except the missing head light and a broken signal. the bike turns on, the fl light flashes and goes out, which I believe is what it is suppose to do. turn the bike to run hit this start switch and nothing. when you turn it to run, no fuel pump sound and when you hit the start you get a low click. I think it is a relay, but why is the fuel pump not clicking on. if its the fuel pump why is the starter not at least trying?
I down loaded the manual, and I am pretty good at fixing electrical, and general other stuff.
no I do not have a drifter myself. you can just go a head and make fun of me for my Harleys but I love em., Of course I still ride and I am brave enough to come in here to help get one back on the road.
any help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.....Gray
Start by checking ALL the fuses, followed by the connection at the clutch lever switch. A broken headlight could mean some blown fuses...and does it have a stock ign. switch or an aftermarket switch?
Hello Gray, and welcome to the forum. Don't worry, we won't make fun of you too bad, several of the members here also have a Harley, and many of them have owned them in the past - before they wised up... LOL... It won't be long, once you get that Drifter purring, and see the elegant beauty going down the road, that you will get jealous, and you'll want one too! ;D
Now on to your problem. Although I've never had this issue, I've read a lot about the clutch switch getting dis-located and not allowing the starter to crank. You might check that first. If this thing has been stored long, hard to tell what has been broken, bent, un-hooked, or otherwise disabled, especially considering it's been "ridden hard".
Also, the tip-over sensor is often cited as causing the problem - again I've never personally had this bugging mine, so sorry, I don't remember where it located.
I don't want to assume anything, so I'll ask: Have you verified the "new" battery has good voltage? (should have 12.6 V) It wouldn't be the first time a supposedly "new" part was not up to snuff. For future reference, the EFI on these is really sensitive to voltage -- many people (me included) have had a low battery to the point where the bike will turn over, halfway decent actually, but it won't start b/c the EFI computer won't work, so no fuel. But if your battery was pretty low (like sometimes they don't come charged) then you would probably get both problems you are getting.
Did you happen to check all the fuses??
The starter circuit has a 10A fuse. There is a relay in the starter ignition circuit and then the starter relay aka solenoid. You can check to see if you are getting current on the starter (from the solenoid) when the starter button is pushed - if not, check for current on the relay/solenoid when starter button is pushed. If no current there, then it's matter of back-tracking to see what is not connecting.
On the fuel pump- yes, you should hear it run when key is on. There is a fuel pump relay, I believe under the right side cover. gets its current from a 15 A fuse.
Hope that helps at least give you a couple things to look at, and maybe someone else will be along to help as well.
I have checked the fuses, every one that I could find all good. But it had a 10 amp instead of a 15 amp on the fuel, the battery is new, I even hooked my motorcycle jumper box on to it to check to see if a lack of power is causing it no change. Did notice that the battery was at the very lowest for cold cranking amps. they are going to buy a new one if I can get it even turning over.
The head light is completely unplugged needs a new one. I am trying how to cheat on the tip over switch to see of I can bypass it to check that. I think I am going to have to build a relay tester to test the relays.
I also plan on seeing if I can bypass the clutch switch, my question is on this bike does the clutch have to be in to start. I know some that do and a lot that don't.
What's this about the ignition switch, I have no idea what is on it at the moment. is there a issue related to this? anyone know how I can check what it is on the bike?
The bike is actually in pretty good shape, 10,000 miles and other than the head light and the signal I saw no obvious damage. all the tins are in good shape. To be honest it is in a lot better shape than my 01, of course my 01 is well over a hundred thousand miles. and I have ridden it hard.
thanks Gray
It is designed to start either with the clutch in, OR in neutral - either way. Here's the catch, though-- both of these switches rely on the same wire at the clutch switch - so if the wire connection is bad here, neither of the safety switches will ground, so the starter relay will not work. Looks like that wire is black, so if you ground the black wire at the clutch switch it bypasses the neutral switch and the clutch switch. This is the first place I would look - I've read about numerous problems here.
There is a "main fuse" located in the main starter relay, according to the drawing, but if that were bad I don't think you would be getting any power to the ignition at all (someone can correct me if I'm wrong)
Do you have a test light or volt meter?? check some voltage at a few points. Key on should give you 12V to the starter/ignition fuse. If the fuse is good, then it completes the circuit to the right handlebar switch- should get 12V to the kill switch, and if it is "ON", then 12V to the starter switch. Press the starter switch, should give you 12V to the starter/ignition relay. That should energize said relay sending 12V to the coil in the starter relay, which in turn connects the circuit for the big cable feeding the starter motor.
Here's the starter diagram I was referencing:
Also make sure your negative battery connection has a solid ground to the block. That's where I had a problem and thought I needed a new battery. I had to make a helicoil for the ground strap screw on the block, since it was stripped out.
The answer to your Question about the ignition switch is that they have a security resistor built in. So replacing the ignition switch will not allow the bike to crank over or start. The yellow wire has to have a 100 ohm resistor wired inline to compensate for this. Any decent hardware store will have these.
Also I have three drifters that sat for a bit and the clutch safety switch was always the issue. Turn key on Press starter button while jiggling the hell out of the clutch lever..that sometimes clears the issue. they get tarnished connections for some reason when sitting for a bit. But if your fuel pump isn't activating when you turn on the key..this isn't the issue.
thanks for the info. I have a few meters and will be checking what you suggested. I am gonna look closely at the clutch switch and everything connected to it. along with a bunch of other stuff that was connected. I will be working on it Thursday and will let you all know if I find something. thanks. Gray
so got bored, and went and checked the clutch switch. Guess what the bike is now turning over. not starting yet but got it turning over next to check to try and get it started.
I think during the accident the wire got hit on the clutch switch. it is has a temp repair on it right now.
thanks Gray
P.S. it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders.
Quote from: graypritt on February 01, 2017, 06:50:35 AM
P.S. it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders.
That's what we're here for.
a pic,, not my wiring planning on fixing it if the motor runs.
another pic
so I got it turning over and I have at least some fire. but not matter what I do I do not smell gas. so I think the pump it frozen or one of the lines. from the look of the insides of the take there is a lot of corrosion.
My question this time, is there a easy way to check the fuel pump? the book talks about it and I could do it. I am checking the relay shortly. But I don't want to waste time tearing the tank off if there is a easy check.
thanks Gray
Great looking drifter there!! I always said I love a 2-toned bike-especially a Drifter ;) That looks a lot like Troll's bike, and several others, it's a great color combination.
Glad you got the starter thing sorted out. On the fuel pump, looks like (from the diagram) the ground comes from the ECU (BK/W wire) and the power comes from the fuel pump relay (DFI relay) (W/R wire). To test the fuel pump, you could jump a hot wire to the W/R wire at the relay. This should energize the fuel pump, and bypass everything else. However, it does assume the ECU is good, and the wiring from the relay and ECU to the fuel pump (and the plug under the tank, btw). Incidently the W/R wire at both fuel injectors and the idle control valves are all the same W/R wire. Another option (better perhaps) is to remove the tank (it's not that hard) and unplug the 4-plug plug going to the fuel pump in the tank. Jump wires from your jumper box to the plug going to the pump- +on the W/R and - on the B/W. This eliminates everything but the pump and wiring harness.
Hopefully Troll will be along shortly to admire his bike's long-lost sister, and maybe he'll have something easier to try.
if the tank has corrosion, chances are the fuel pump gave up. They are cheap enough to replace[60 bucks] and reliable as hell under constant use. just not very well prone to sitting long term with old fuel. Easy to replace and peace of mind. http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23443596-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-vulcan-1500-drifter-vn1500-2001-2005
Wow. I'm stunned a new pump is so cheap. I'd hate to see what a new OEM pump costs. I feel like buying one or two of these and keeping it (them) on the shelf until needed. Thanks for posting that link.
The pump should 'spool' up pressure as soon as you turn the key on. If you're not hearing it spool up (and typically shut off again after a few seconds), it's not working.
Quote from: Bucko on February 03, 2017, 00:42:59 AM
Wow. I'm stunned a new pump is so cheap. I'd hat to see what a new OEM pump costs. I fell like buying one or tow of these and keeping it (them) on the shelf until needed. Thanks for posting that link.
The pump should 'spool' up pressure as soon as you turn the key on. If you're not hearing it spool up (and typically shut off again after a few seconds), it's not working.
The pump should power on for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. If you don't start the bike, it will shut off, and if you do, it will keep running. This is the same thing as cars do, but you usually can't hear them. The easiest way to test the pump is to take the two wire connector under the instrument cluster and determine if there is power on one wire (b+ from the relay) and then ground the other one (fuel pump side) This is what the computer does when it sees a correct voltage on the (unused) pin 5....really no different than doing the same thing to a Ford or Chevy....
so I did everything I could with the tank on. I Believe the fuel pump is done. Taking if off today or tomorrow to do test the fuel pump with some wires, looked up how to change it doesn't seem difficult. I think the filter will be changed while I am at it. I will have to wait to see if they want to spend the money on the fuel pump, trying to do this at cheaply as possible. Thanks Gray
Try banging on the tank with a rubber mallet... That's how we get Chevy's to start when the fuel pump goes bad... ::)
and he issue is as you all and a few others predicted the fuel pump took it out and nothing will make it work. I think the fuel pump and fuel filter at a minimum needs replace. Now I wait and see what they want to do with it.
as far as hitting it with a mallet...I used to own a chevette (reads shovette) , all I could afford as a teenager, and a metal sledge hammer works much better.
Gray
combination of corn gas and neglect......too common! My 2001 has 110,000 miles on the original pump!
Quote from: Troll on February 04, 2017, 18:32:08 PM
combination of corn gas and neglect......too common! My 2001 has 110,000 miles on the original pump!
Try to use ethanol free gas whenever you can. http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX
Quote from: Old Drifter on February 04, 2017, 21:29:49 PM
Try to use ethanol free gas whenever you can. http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX
Yeah, good luck with that......some of the states in my area don't have anything but corn gas, and only 87 octane....
Quote from: Troll on February 05, 2017, 08:19:59 AM
Yeah, good luck with that......some of the states in my area don't have anything but corn gas, and only 87 octane....
How about a Wal-mart? They usually have a Murphy USA gas station on or near their store parking lot. Murphy USA usually has ethanol free gas. Not sure what the octane rating is though.
Quote from: Old Drifter on February 06, 2017, 21:43:21 PM
How about a Wal-mart? They usually have a Murphy USA gas station on or near their store parking lot. Murphy USA usually has ethanol free gas. Not sure what the octane rating is though.
None of the WalMarts in the general area have gas stations, and in Iowa, that's all you can get.....Minnesota is ok for buying fuel, and locally, you can get "recreational" gasoline for a ridiculous price....I've been using 89 since I got the bike, because I can find it MOST places.....
Quote from: Troll on February 08, 2017, 10:36:39 AM
None of the WalMarts in the general area have gas stations, and in Iowa, that's all you can get.....Minnesota is ok for buying fuel, and locally, you can get "recreational" gasoline for a ridiculous price....I've been using 89 since I got the bike, because I can find it MOST places.....
Actually, I think the Walmart in Murphy, NC also has a Murphy gas station at the edge of the property. I thought that's what it was the last time I was there.
Quote from: DC on February 08, 2017, 13:34:09 PM
Actually, I think the Walmart in Murphy, NC also has a Murphy gas station at the edge of the property. I thought that's what it was the last time I was there.
Yep, you are correct. Murphy USA is gas station chain. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy_USA Coincidentally they have one at the Walmart in Murphy, NC.
Use an additive
http://www.fuelsystemguide.com/what-is-the-best-ethanol-fuel-treatment/