Helping a new Drifter owner

[bambam0099]

Use an additive
http://www.fuelsystemguide.com/what-is-the-best-ethanol-fuel-treatment/

[Old Drifter]

Actually, I think the Walmart in Murphy, NC also has a Murphy gas station at the edge of the property.  I thought that's what it was the last time I was there.

Yep, you are correct. Murphy USA is gas station chain. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy_USA Coincidentally they have one at the Walmart in Murphy, NC.

[DC]

None of the WalMarts in the general area have gas stations, and in Iowa, that's all you can get.....Minnesota is ok for buying fuel, and locally, you can get "recreational" gasoline for a ridiculous  price....I've been using 89 since I got the bike, because I can find it MOST places.....

Actually, I think the Walmart in Murphy, NC also has a Murphy gas station at the edge of the property.  I thought that's what it was the last time I was there.

[Troll]

How about a Wal-mart? They usually have a Murphy USA gas station on or near their store parking lot. Murphy USA usually has ethanol free gas. Not sure what the octane rating is though.

None of the WalMarts in the general area have gas stations, and in Iowa, that's all you can get.....Minnesota is ok for buying fuel, and locally, you can get "recreational" gasoline for a ridiculous  price....I've been using 89 since I got the bike, because I can find it MOST places.....

[Old Drifter]

Yeah, good luck with that......some of the states in my area don't have anything but corn gas, and only 87 octane....

How about a Wal-mart? They usually have a Murphy USA gas station on or near their store parking lot. Murphy USA usually has ethanol free gas. Not sure what the octane rating is though.

[Troll]

Try to use ethanol free gas whenever you can. http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX

Yeah, good luck with that......some of the states in my area don't have anything but corn gas, and only 87 octane....

[Old Drifter]

combination of corn gas and neglect......too common! My 2001 has 110,000 miles on the original pump!

Try to use ethanol free gas whenever you can. http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX

[Troll]

combination of corn gas and neglect......too common! My 2001 has 110,000 miles on the original pump!

[graypritt]

and he issue is as you all and a few others predicted the fuel pump   took it out and nothing will make it work.  I think the fuel pump and fuel filter at a minimum needs replace.   Now I wait and see what they want to do with it.

as far as hitting it with a mallet...I used to own a chevette (reads shovette) , all I could afford as a teenager, and a metal sledge hammer works much better.

Gray

[greenbarn]

Try banging on the tank with a rubber mallet...  That's how we get Chevy's to start when the fuel pump goes bad...

[graypritt]

so I did everything I could with the tank on. I Believe the fuel pump is done.   Taking if off today or tomorrow to do test the fuel pump with some wires,   looked up how to change it doesn't seem difficult.    I think the filter will be changed while I am at it.    I will have to wait to see if they want to spend the money on the fuel pump, trying to do this at cheaply as possible.    Thanks Gray

[Troll]

Wow.  I'm stunned a new pump is so cheap.  I'd hat to see what a new OEM pump costs.  I fell like buying one or tow of these and keeping it (them) on the shelf until needed.  Thanks for posting that link.

The pump should 'spool' up pressure as soon as you turn the key on.  If you're not hearing it spool up (and typically shut off again after a few seconds), it's not working.

The pump should power on for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. If you don't start the bike, it will shut off, and if you do, it will keep running.  This is the same thing as cars do, but you usually can't hear them. The easiest way to test the pump is to take the two wire connector under the instrument cluster and determine if there is power on one wire (b+ from the relay) and then ground the other one (fuel pump side) This is what the computer does when it sees a correct voltage on the (unused) pin 5....really no different than doing the same thing to a Ford or Chevy....

[Bucko]

Wow.  I'm stunned a new pump is so cheap.  I'd hate to see what a new OEM pump costs.  I feel like buying one or two of these and keeping it (them) on the shelf until needed.  Thanks for posting that link.

The pump should 'spool' up pressure as soon as you turn the key on.  If you're not hearing it spool up (and typically shut off again after a few seconds), it's not working.

[AZCaveman]

if the tank has corrosion, chances are the fuel pump gave up.  They are cheap enough to replace[60 bucks]  and reliable as hell under constant use.  just not very well prone to sitting long term with old fuel.  Easy to replace and peace of mind.  http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23443596-new-intank-efi-fuel-pump-vulcan-1500-drifter-vn1500-2001-2005

[greenbarn]

Great looking drifter there!! I always said I love a 2-toned bike-especially a Drifter    That looks a lot like Troll's bike, and several others, it's a great color combination.

Glad you got the starter thing sorted out.  On the fuel pump, looks like (from the diagram) the ground comes from the ECU (BK/W wire) and the power comes from the fuel pump relay (DFI relay) (W/R wire).  To test the fuel pump,  you could jump a hot wire to the W/R wire at the relay.  This should energize the fuel pump, and bypass everything else.  However, it does assume the ECU is good, and the wiring from the relay and ECU to the fuel pump (and the plug under the tank, btw).   Incidently the W/R wire at both fuel injectors and the idle control valves are all the same W/R wire.    Another option (better perhaps) is to remove the tank (it's not that hard) and unplug the 4-plug plug going to the fuel pump in the tank.  Jump wires from your jumper box to the plug going to the pump- +on the W/R and - on the B/W.   This eliminates everything but the pump and wiring harness.

Hopefully Troll will be along shortly to admire his bike's long-lost sister, and maybe he'll have something easier to try. 

[graypritt]

so I got it turning over and I have at least some fire.    but not matter what I do I do not smell gas.   so I think the pump it frozen or one of the lines.   from the look of the insides of the take there is a lot of corrosion.

My question this time, is there a easy way to check the fuel pump? the book talks about it and I could do it. I am checking the relay shortly.    But I don't want to waste time tearing the tank off if there is a easy check.

thanks Gray

[graypritt]

another pic

[graypritt]

a pic,, not my wiring planning on fixing it if the motor runs.

[DC]

P.S.  it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders.

That's what we're here for.

[graypritt]

so got bored, and went and checked the clutch switch.    Guess what the bike is now turning over.   not starting yet but got it turning over   next to check to try and get it started.

I think during the accident the wire got hit on the clutch switch.  it is has a temp repair on it right now.

thanks Gray

P.S.  it is nice to see that riders still are willing to help riders. 

[graypritt]

   thanks for the info.   I have a few meters and will be checking what you suggested.     I am gonna look closely at the clutch switch and everything connected to it.    along with a bunch of other stuff that was connected.     I will be working on it Thursday and will let you all know if I find something.   thanks. Gray   

[AZCaveman]

Also I have three drifters that sat for a bit and the clutch safety switch was always the issue.  Turn key on  Press starter button while jiggling the hell out of the clutch lever..that sometimes clears the issue.  they get tarnished connections for some reason when sitting for a bit.   But if your fuel pump isn't activating when you turn on the key..this isn't the issue. 

[AZCaveman]

The answer to your Question about the ignition switch is that they have a security resistor built in.  So replacing the ignition switch will not allow the bike to crank over or start.  The yellow wire has to have a 100 ohm resistor wired inline to compensate for this.   Any decent hardware store will have these.

[DC]

Also make sure your negative battery connection has a solid ground to the block. That's where I had a problem and thought I needed a new battery.  I had to make a helicoil for the ground strap screw on the block, since it was stripped out.

[greenbarn]

Here's the starter diagram I was referencing: