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Posted by John Hopkins
- September 27, 2014, 16:00:11 PMThe taillight fuse which you are quoting as the one that blows is fuse No 4..I dont think the wire coming from the fuse is the wire that is burning up..the brown wire is the common supply for fuses 2,3,4,6 and 9..the load side of the taillight fuse is colored red with a black stripe...you should be able to trace the track from the blown fuse, one side will go to the brown wire, the other side will go to the red/black wire..If you are blowing fuse number 4 you have to follow the red/black wire until you come to the place where it shorts to the ground..if you are blowing a different fuse we have to start again.
Looking at the picture of the plug/wires the color of the wire may be red blue..it's marked as r/bl so it could be either..
John.
Posted by dundo1028
- September 27, 2014, 09:51:47 AMIf you look at the picture after the circuit board pictures is the wire in question which is Brown.
Posted by John Hopkins
- September 27, 2014, 09:39:39 AMok, I've looked at this a little more thoroughly and based on all your information I have come to a few conclusions...The circuit board is probably ok..The burnt parts are caused by the relay above the burn marks..As the relay contacts open and close they cause a spark to jump the gap, this gradually burns the contacts causing them to continuously arc..but none of the relays are connected to the rear light fuse...At some time it would be prudent to buy another relay and fit it to the circuit board..Any soldering should be left to a professional, electronics engineer, tv engineer, who will have good soldering/desoldering equipment and know how to use it..
The fuse blowing for the rear lights is probably another matter, you give me the impression that you have disconnected all the rear lights by unplugging the five pin connector and that the taillight fuse still blows..this is fuse number four...and the path from that fuse runs seems to run through the ignition switch and plenty of other places..I can't tell the color of the wire from the circuit on post #15 because the writing is not clear, but you can follow it from the circuit board to wherever it goes and if possible disconnect it until the fuse no longer blows..If you find the wire is visible where it passes over bare metal look closely for damaged insulation and if you find any then that will be the fault.
John.
Posted by dundo1028
- September 26, 2014, 20:35:07 PMAs I'm looking at the diagram the wire that over heated looks like it my be the ignition switch. Could the switch blow out the tail fuse?
Posted by Troll
- September 26, 2014, 19:15:40 PMPersonally, I would resolder that hot spot on the board, and look over the wiring harness carefully for a spot where the wires have been damaged. If the diodes check, and the fuses are good, then the issue is somewhere else. The circuit that is giving trouble only has a few loads on it, so tracing that should be pretty easy.
Posted by dundo1028
- September 26, 2014, 19:07:35 PMHello everyone. Ok I tested it again all my fuse areas reads 001 and the diode areas reads in the 600's only in one direction. So is this good or should I bite the bullet and buy a new one or is my problem elsewhere ?
Posted by dundo1028
- September 24, 2014, 06:12:10 AMThanx John I'll test it again once I have time and repost the results
Posted by John Hopkins
- September 23, 2014, 16:49:30 PMHold on a minute..
the black tube things are diodes, probably 1n4006 or BY126/7 but I think the other things are fuses..so..
if you are measuring a fuse with the meter set to ohms/resistance then 001 shows the fuse is good, however if you are measuring one of the black tube things with the white stripe at the end then 001 shows a short circuit which is bad..
I do notice some fine cracks around the solder joints which should be resoldered these are sometimes called dry joints, but if you were measuring a fuse then I don't think the junction box is your problem...The badly soldered joint that you are looking at is the result of someone else doing a botched repair and unless the track has lifted away from the board is not the cause of your problem..
Look at reply number 15 from ratman, it shows the circuit for your junction box, continue using the meter set to ohms to test all the fuses until you get to the one that doesn't read 001 and that will be where the fault is..fuse number 9 is the indicator lights and I think number 3 is the ignition fuse..remove the main fuse under the seat and check that with your meter, it should also read 001.
John.
Posted by dundo1028
- September 21, 2014, 18:24:49 PMI'll order a junction box and post back my results. Thanks again All
Posted by Troll
- September 21, 2014, 15:38:33 PMNo, that's not good. it should read only in one direction. Replacing the diode might be a bit of an issue...a look on eBay for a vn800 junction box might be in order...otherwise, a new one from the dealer or a parts distributor...here's a bunch of listings: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xvn800+junction+box&_nkw=vn800+junction+box&_sacat=0
The part number tag on the box should lead you to the correct one. Check the wire connected to that circuit CAREFULLY to be sure it's not shorted somewhere...
Posted by dundo1028
- September 21, 2014, 15:14:33 PMIt reads 001 in both directions is that good? Replace what exactly? The board or the whole junction box.
I also would like to thank everyone for all your help. Without all your help I would have lost my mind by now.
Posted by Troll
- September 21, 2014, 14:45:02 PMshould work. the diodes only pass current in one direction. if they are either open (no current will pass) or shorted (pass current in either direction), they need to be replaced. Judging by what I see from the picture, the diode in question has turned itself into a piece of wire. If your meter has a diode check setting, then use that. That setting will take into account the current needed to forward bias the diode...
Posted by dundo1028
- September 21, 2014, 11:25:59 AMI have one of those cheap ones from harbor freight
Posted by Troll
- September 21, 2014, 11:23:11 AMthose are all diodes. do you have a good multimeter that can check diodes?
Posted by dundo1028
- September 21, 2014, 10:53:20 AMDo you think this is repairable or do I have to replace it