bike won't start

Started by dundo1028, September 07, 2014, 18:34:39 PM

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John Hopkins

#52

The taillight fuse which you are quoting as the one that blows is fuse No 4..I dont think the wire coming from the fuse is the wire that is burning up..the brown wire is the common supply for fuses 2,3,4,6 and 9..the load side of the taillight fuse is colored red with a black stripe...you should be able to trace the track from the blown fuse, one side will go to the brown wire, the other side will go to the red/black wire..If you are blowing fuse number 4 you have to follow the red/black wire until you come to the place where it shorts to the ground..if you are blowing a different fuse we have to start again.

Looking at the picture of the plug/wires the color of the wire may be red blue..it's marked as r/bl so it could be either..

John.


dundo1028

If you look at the picture after the circuit board pictures is the wire in question which is Brown.


John Hopkins

ok, I've looked at this a little more thoroughly and based on all your information I have come to a few conclusions...The circuit board is probably ok..The burnt parts are caused by the relay above the burn marks..As the relay contacts open and close they cause a spark to jump the gap, this gradually burns the contacts causing them to continuously arc..but none of the relays are connected to the rear light fuse...At some time it would be prudent to buy another relay and fit it to the circuit board..Any soldering should be left to a professional, electronics engineer, tv engineer, who will have good soldering/desoldering equipment and know how to use it..

The fuse blowing for the rear lights is probably another matter, you give me the impression that you have disconnected all the rear lights by unplugging the five pin connector and that the taillight fuse still blows..this is fuse number four...and the path from that fuse runs seems to run through the ignition switch and plenty of other places..I can't tell the color of the wire from the circuit on post #15 because the writing is not clear, but you can follow it from the circuit board to wherever it goes and if possible disconnect it until the fuse no longer blows..If you find the wire is visible where it passes over bare metal look closely for damaged insulation and if you find any then that will be the fault.

John.


dundo1028

As I'm looking at the diagram the wire that over heated looks like it my be the ignition switch. Could the switch blow out the tail fuse?


Troll

Personally, I would resolder that hot spot on the board, and look over the wiring harness carefully for a spot where the wires have been damaged. If the diodes check, and the fuses are good, then the issue is somewhere else. The circuit that is giving trouble only has a few loads on it, so tracing that should be pretty easy.

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

dundo1028

#47

Hello everyone. Ok I tested it again all my fuse areas reads 001 and the diode areas reads in the 600's only in one direction. So is this good or should I bite the bullet and buy a new one or is my problem elsewhere ?


dundo1028

Thanx John I'll test it again once I have time and repost the results


John Hopkins

#45

Hold on a minute..

the black tube things are diodes, probably 1n4006 or BY126/7 but I think the other things are fuses..so..

if you are measuring a fuse with the meter set to ohms/resistance then 001 shows the fuse is good, however if you are measuring one of the black tube things with the white stripe at the end then 001 shows a short circuit which is bad..

I do notice some fine cracks around the solder joints which should be resoldered these are sometimes called dry joints, but if you were measuring a fuse then I don't think the junction box is your problem...The badly soldered joint that you are looking at is the result of someone else doing a botched repair and unless the track has lifted away from the board is not the cause of your problem..
Look at reply number 15 from ratman, it shows the circuit for your junction box, continue using the meter set to ohms to test all the fuses until you get to the one that doesn't read 001 and that will be where the fault is..fuse number 9 is the indicator lights and I think number 3 is the ignition fuse..remove the main fuse under the seat and check that with your meter, it should also read 001.

John.


dundo1028

#44

I'll order a junction box and post back my results. Thanks again  All


Troll

No, that's not good. it should read only in one direction. Replacing the diode might be a bit of an issue...a look on eBay for a vn800 junction box might be in order...otherwise, a new one from the dealer or a parts distributor...here's a bunch of listings:    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xvn800+junction+box&_nkw=vn800+junction+box&_sacat=0
The part number tag on the box should lead you to the correct one. Check the wire connected to that circuit CAREFULLY to be sure it's not shorted somewhere...

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

dundo1028

It reads 001 in both directions is that good? Replace what exactly? The board or the whole junction box.

I also would like to thank everyone for all your help. Without all your help I would have lost my mind by now.


Troll

should work. the diodes only pass current in one direction. if they are either open (no current will pass) or shorted (pass current in either direction), they need to be replaced. Judging by what I see from the picture, the diode in question has turned itself into a piece of wire. If your meter has a diode check setting, then use that. That setting will take into account the current needed to forward bias the diode...

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

dundo1028

I have one of those cheap ones from harbor freight


Troll

those are all diodes. do you have a good multimeter that can check diodes?

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

dundo1028

Do you think this is repairable or do I have to replace it


Troll

overheated wire connection and a melted solder joint...what does the other side of the circuit board look like?

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

dundo1028

#36

Yes sir that's the spot.and Here is the plug for that spot.notice the top of the top Brown wire. It was melted.


CDNRatMan

this is the spot correct.

posting pictures is not that hard is it.....

is there some way Troll to test this or have it tested?

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

dundo1028

You should be able to see it bottom left side


Troll

Sounds like a good candidate for being responsible for your problems...

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

CDNRatMan

when you take a picture of the place resize it to a decent size like 900 x ? and at the bottom of the response box see the "Attachments and other options"
it will allow you to browse and put your picture there for us to see.

GPS is not to get you THERE but rather to get you home from THERE

dundo1028

I took my junction box apart and discovered. A melted solder over some chipped area.
Is there a way to show pic of what I'm talking about?
I'm wondering if this is my issue.


Troll

Not necessarily a connection. bare wire somewhere.

Recovering H-D owner...W-650 Cafe' No excuses...Ride it or sell it to someone who will!

dundo1028

Ok I completely disconnected the rear lights all together. Checked all the connections in the headlight and all seems ok. As soon as I turn the key the tail fuse still blows. Not sure what else to do


John Hopkins

take the tail light bulb out and see if any water has discolored the fitting, then with the bulb out see if the fuse still blows..if it does check what else is not working and all you have to do is look closely at anything thet doesn't work with that fuse out.

John.


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