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Posted by Trall
- October 13, 2016, 17:38:59 PMMy friend mechanic stopped by to check the 21 code. And it's definitely the pick up coil is bad and because of that the bike is running on one cylinder instead of two that he said as well when he checked.
So now no one has the parts it's on backorder so I'm going to have to wait about a week and a half till I get it.
Taking off the inner alternator cover should be fairly easy when he looked at it.
I was thinking about the other cover behind the alternator innner cover. I thought that might've had to come off which require a lot more time and work.
So hopefully the end is in sight and all the bugs we were dead after this new pick up coils replaced.
Thanks for everybody help.
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 13, 2016, 11:08:24 AMI wouldn't pull that cover until your buddy checks the coils with his ohm meter.
I have never had to check these coils but there should be a wire harness coming out with a connector and should be able to check the coils from the connector.
I have never laid eyes on the connector but from looking at the parts diagram, it looks like two wires to each coil so it is probably a four pin connector.
Posted by Trall
- October 13, 2016, 10:29:01 AMI just pulled off the Left ALt. cover to get ready for the mechanic to test. Everything looks plugged it form the wires available.
I looked at the manual in case the coils have to be removed to replace them. The inner alternator cover looks like a major chore to remove. The manual mentions using jacks and removing engine front and rear mounting bolts and lots of stuff. I don't know if I can do it with what i have just to get the inner alt. cover off.
Anyone have any tips on the easiest way to remove the inner alt cover???
Partzilla calls the pick up coils Coil-Pulsing Kawasaki Part #59026-1158. Cost 63.69 plus shipping. Sold as a set, so you get both Pick-up coils 1 + 2 it looks like.
Posted by Trall
- October 13, 2016, 09:18:35 AMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 13, 2016, 08:47:33 AMI was thinking of the ignition coils that should not impact performance. If one ignition coil is bad the ECU picks the good one to run the bike. My ignition coils are all new and but there fine, I was confusing myself and thinking ignition coils but no codes on them, just it the pickup coil #1.another thread to read..
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=1377.0
I think your getting close bro. Hopefully your friend will help you out this evening.
Thats a good thread.
I just checked my manual and the pickup coils are located under the alternator cover / Left cover. I don't know if this is related but when my body parts were off to the painter, I moved the rectifier with a Nomad rectifier mounting bracket to the mounted holes on lower frame tubes at bottom of radiator, never needed unplugged but I had to remove the left side cover to re-route the rectifier wiring to the front. I wonder if anything got touched in the process since the pickup coils are located there???
I ll know more this afternoon.
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 13, 2016, 08:47:33 AManother thread to read..
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=1377.0
I think your getting close bro. Hopefully your friend will help you out this evening.
Posted by Trall
- October 13, 2016, 08:22:22 AMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 13, 2016, 07:04:25 AMAre you sure?with one coil not working you are only running on one cylinder.
I thought the the ECU just needs one pick up coil to run normal. So if one has a fault it picks up the good one and runs normal, and if both coils are bad then it won't run at all.
Last night it seemed to idle OK with no gas but hesitates when I tried to go in 1st gear, it also had a few misfires as well. Since I have the new VH pipes installed, this morning I added a stainless steel washer to each exhaust nut since I am sure 1 0r two nuts bottomed out and could be an exhaust leak and cause of the idle gas issue and backfire. So this morning bright and early added a 3mm thick lock washer to each exhaust nut and torqued them done. All the nuts no longer bottomed out. I already had new exhaust gaskets in place. Next I did the Marble Mod. to the right side air cover and that only takes a minute to do. The bike seemed to start better and idle better. Maybe its just in my mind but seemed to start easier and idle better compared to last night. Its also about 45 outside. It seemed to idle better. No backfires like last night. After warming up it went in first and stayed running. I went for a 7 min ride and everything seemed to be normal and run right. Went up to 4 th gear around 40mph and no backfires. Made it home fine.
SO check the box for an exhaust leak that is now fixed.
This afternoon when my mechanic friend stops by hopefully he can tell whats up with the FI code 21 for the pick up coil #1.
Ill keep in mind about the change out of coils if needed but he should be able to test each one.
Thanks...
Heres the link to marble mod and other good stuff from good folks here on the VDR-
Backfiring issues-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=38218.msg83254#msg83254
Marble Mod disable reed valves-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/smog-marbling.html
Air / Emissions Info-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?action=links;cat=62
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 13, 2016, 07:04:25 AMwith one coil not working you are only running on one cylinder.
Posted by Trall
- October 13, 2016, 06:23:49 AMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 12, 2016, 17:06:25 PMyou could swap the coils and see if the fault moves to #2...if it does, then I would say the coil is bad.
That makes sense. I have a mechanic friend stopping by today so he's good with multimeter and testing. Ill wait and see if he can figure it out.
For now on the Coil #1 fault, I pulled my spark plugs again and checked gap and they were still .08 to .09 range. So there good. The bikes starts but takes a few tries and sometimes I have to twist the throttle a little for it to start. It will idle OK but after warming it up and trying to put it in first it wants to die. Not sure if the Vance and Hines Longshots are an issue for that.
Everything else is all stock. Last night tried to take it for a drive but it keeps dying when I go to first and acts like it needs more gas or something. Then sometimes would not want to restart right away and hard to start even though its been warmed up. SO maybe my fuel pump is not 100%.
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 12, 2016, 17:06:25 PMyou could swap the coils and see if the fault moves to #2...if it does, then I would say the coil is bad.
Posted by Trall
- October 12, 2016, 15:04:47 PMUPDATE- Making Progress BUT.......not quite there yet??
Sounds really good but my FI light stays on. So I checked and ran a jumper wire from my ECU and my code
is 21. 21 is Pick Up Coil #1, after it flashed three times the FI light went off but after starting again comes back on and stays on. Checked the FI code again and the same 21.
I am checking thru my manual now but have not found what I should do next?? All my spark plugs, and both Ignition coils with wires and spark plug boots/caps are all brand new so I find it strange I have a code 21.
So I am still checking the manual but any suggestions??
Thanks Again.
Posted by Old Drifter
- October 08, 2016, 17:04:11 PMQuote from: Trall on October 08, 2016, 11:50:13 AMI'm a firm believer in "if if aint broke...don't fix it"!I just ordered the FI relay Kaw. part number 27002-1051 from Partzilla. Ill have it by Wed. I hope this is it.......
The price for a Kaw fuel pump is over $400 bucks. Holy cow thats crazy.
I ordered a fuel pump from Quantum Fuel from a post by AZCaveman Thx on VDR thread http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=43450.msg97256#msg97256
Quantum Fuel- http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=drifter+fuel+pump&go=Go
My Questions/Opinion is?
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 08, 2016, 12:54:50 PMI would leave the OEM fuel pump in and keep the new one for spare..or return it.
With the relay removed and applying 12v to pin # 1 and 2 you should read zero across pin 3 and 4 with meter set to ohms.
and on the wires that go to pin # 1 and 2 you should read 12v when you hit starter...with meter ser to DC volts.
Posted by Trall
- October 08, 2016, 11:50:13 AMI just ordered the FI relay Kaw. part number 27002-1051 from Partzilla. Ill have it by Wed. I hope this is it.......
The price for a Kaw fuel pump is over $400 bucks. Holy cow thats crazy.
I ordered a fuel pump from Quantum Fuel from a post by AZCaveman Thx on VDR thread http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=43450.msg97256#msg97256
Quantum Fuel- http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=drifter+fuel+pump&go=Go
My Questions/Opinion is? Hopefully the FI relay fixes my starting problem and if it does...................should I install the new fuel pump from Quantum Fuel since I already ordered one to just have a new one on my Drifter since my seat is off and tank not fully mounted back down or leave the OEM in there until I need to change it out at some point or year down the road???
Posted by Trall
- October 08, 2016, 11:00:01 AMQuote from: Troll on October 08, 2016, 04:42:42 AMYes the fuel pumps is turns on every time I turn key to ON position. Also when I was trying to start and let it crank for 5 seconds and wait 10 seconds and try cranking again for 5 seconds and so on for 5 total attempts it I can hear the pump sometimes turning on again if that is normal?you are SURE the fuel pump runs? Do you have a power commander or some such thing installed?
No power commander and all stock set-up except VH long shots.
I just did the FI relay tests and wrote out the previous thread how I did tests from Pilgrims post and if tests done right then I think I have bad FI relay.
Posted by Trall
- October 08, 2016, 10:55:38 AMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 07, 2016, 10:19:05 AMThx , I read the thread. I finally found my repair manual buried in garage. It did mention FI relay that I checked last night when there is a no fuel issue in the manual.Digging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0
I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.
It shows this FI relay test. It shows to test for it with the Relay REMOVED from bike and not connected to bike at all (see Note below from my 1st screw up). 1st it says check for continuity between No. 3 and 4 terminals of the FI relay. I removed neg. battery term. and removed relay.
When I use the multimeter for the first test on relay continuity without a battery hooked to terminal 1 and 2 my multimeter
is on and dial turned to Ohms 20k and it only shows a 1 on the screen. I believe from the videos I just watched on on to use my multimeter it should show 000 being a good test and good continuity. I then turned the dial setting and tried at 200, 2000, 20k again, 200k, 2000k and all show 1 on screen.
So that FAILED the test?
I then did second test and checked with a battery hooked up to terminal 1 and 2, first I can hear the relay click on when hooked to power.
I then with meter checked 3 and 4 and on OHMS at 20k and the screen shows 000. So it is GOOD test.
The manual says if it fails either test fails to replace relay.
*****Note- I screwed up last night when first testing the FI fuse that could of caused it to go bad from my first initial test. I did not read the key part of removing the FI fuse from the bike connector and doing the tests. when I used my alligator clips from my second battery to connect to the 1,2 terminal it had a little spark for a second and I stopped at that point and then read the full test procedures and realized 
what I did it wrong. SO MAYBE THAT DAMAGED THE FI RELAY AND AFTER DOING THE TWO CONTINUITY TESTS CORRECTLY THE 2ND TIME IT SHOWS BAD. Maybe it was bad before or it became bad after I did the 1st check wrong had a small spark.
Thanks again