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Posted by Trall
- October 13, 2016, 06:23:49 AMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 12, 2016, 17:06:25 PMyou could swap the coils and see if the fault moves to #2...if it does, then I would say the coil is bad.
That makes sense. I have a mechanic friend stopping by today so he's good with multimeter and testing. Ill wait and see if he can figure it out.
For now on the Coil #1 fault, I pulled my spark plugs again and checked gap and they were still .08 to .09 range. So there good. The bikes starts but takes a few tries and sometimes I have to twist the throttle a little for it to start. It will idle OK but after warming it up and trying to put it in first it wants to die. Not sure if the Vance and Hines Longshots are an issue for that.
Everything else is all stock. Last night tried to take it for a drive but it keeps dying when I go to first and acts like it needs more gas or something. Then sometimes would not want to restart right away and hard to start even though its been warmed up. SO maybe my fuel pump is not 100%.
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 12, 2016, 17:06:25 PMyou could swap the coils and see if the fault moves to #2...if it does, then I would say the coil is bad.
Posted by Trall
- October 12, 2016, 15:04:47 PMUPDATE- Making Progress BUT.......not quite there yet?
?
Sounds really good but my FI light stays on. So I checked and ran a jumper wire from my ECU and my code
is 21. 21 is Pick Up Coil #1, after it flashed three times the FI light went off but after starting again comes back on and stays on. Checked the FI code again and the same 21.
I am checking thru my manual now but have not found what I should do next?? All my spark plugs, and both Ignition coils with wires and spark plug boots/caps are all brand new so I find it strange I have a code 21.
So I am still checking the manual but any suggestions??
Thanks Again.
Posted by Old Drifter
- October 08, 2016, 17:04:11 PMQuote from: Trall on October 08, 2016, 11:50:13 AMI'm a firm believer in "if if aint broke...don't fix it"!I just ordered the FI relay Kaw. part number 27002-1051 from Partzilla. Ill have it by Wed. I hope this is it.......
The price for a Kaw fuel pump is over $400 bucks. Holy cow thats crazy.
I ordered a fuel pump from Quantum Fuel from a post by AZCaveman Thx on VDR thread http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=43450.msg97256#msg97256
Quantum Fuel- http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=drifter+fuel+pump&go=Go
My Questions/Opinion is?
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 08, 2016, 12:54:50 PMI would leave the OEM fuel pump in and keep the new one for spare..or return it.
With the relay removed and applying 12v to pin # 1 and 2 you should read zero across pin 3 and 4 with meter set to ohms.
and on the wires that go to pin # 1 and 2 you should read 12v when you hit starter...with meter ser to DC volts.
Posted by Trall
- October 08, 2016, 11:50:13 AMI just ordered the FI relay Kaw. part number 27002-1051 from Partzilla. Ill have it by Wed. I hope this is it.......
The price for a Kaw fuel pump is over $400 bucks. Holy cow thats crazy.
I ordered a fuel pump from Quantum Fuel from a post by AZCaveman Thx on VDR thread http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=43450.msg97256#msg97256
Quantum Fuel- http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=drifter+fuel+pump&go=Go
My Questions/Opinion is? Hopefully the FI relay fixes my starting problem and if it does...................should I install the new fuel pump from Quantum Fuel since I already ordered one to just have a new one on my Drifter since my seat is off and tank not fully mounted back down or leave the OEM in there until I need to change it out at some point or year down the road???
Posted by Trall
- October 08, 2016, 11:00:01 AMQuote from: Troll on October 08, 2016, 04:42:42 AMYes the fuel pumps is turns on every time I turn key to ON position. Also when I was trying to start and let it crank for 5 seconds and wait 10 seconds and try cranking again for 5 seconds and so on for 5 total attempts it I can hear the pump sometimes turning on again if that is normal?you are SURE the fuel pump runs? Do you have a power commander or some such thing installed?
No power commander and all stock set-up except VH long shots.
I just did the FI relay tests and wrote out the previous thread how I did tests from Pilgrims post and if tests done right then I think I have bad FI relay.
Posted by Trall
- October 08, 2016, 10:55:38 AMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 07, 2016, 10:19:05 AMThx , I read the thread. I finally found my repair manual buried in garage. It did mention FI relay that I checked last night when there is a no fuel issue in the manual.Digging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0
I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.
It shows this FI relay test. It shows to test for it with the Relay REMOVED from bike and not connected to bike at all (see Note below from my 1st screw up). 1st it says check for continuity between No. 3 and 4 terminals of the FI relay. I removed neg. battery term. and removed relay.
When I use the multimeter for the first test on relay continuity without a battery hooked to terminal 1 and 2 my multimeter
is on and dial turned to Ohms 20k and it only shows a 1 on the screen. I believe from the videos I just watched on on to use my multimeter it should show 000 being a good test and good continuity. I then turned the dial setting and tried at 200, 2000, 20k again, 200k, 2000k and all show 1 on screen.
So that FAILED the test?
I then did second test and checked with a battery hooked up to terminal 1 and 2, first I can hear the relay click on when hooked to power.
I then with meter checked 3 and 4 and on OHMS at 20k and the screen shows 000. So it is GOOD test.
The manual says if it fails either test fails to replace relay.
*****Note- I screwed up last night when first testing the FI fuse that could of caused it to go bad from my first initial test. I did not read the key part of removing the FI fuse from the bike connector and doing the tests. when I used my alligator clips from my second battery to connect to the 1,2 terminal it had a little spark for a second and I stopped at that point and then read the full test procedures and realized 
what I did it wrong. SO MAYBE THAT DAMAGED THE FI RELAY AND AFTER DOING THE TWO CONTINUITY TESTS CORRECTLY THE 2ND TIME IT SHOWS BAD. Maybe it was bad before or it became bad after I did the 1st check wrong had a small spark.
Thanks again
Posted by Troll
- October 08, 2016, 04:42:42 AMyou are SURE the fuel pump runs? Do you have a power commander or some such thing installed?
Posted by Pilgrim
- October 07, 2016, 10:19:05 AMDigging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0
I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.
Posted by Trall
- October 07, 2016, 10:07:19 AMQuote from: UGLY on October 07, 2016, 09:36:41 AMThx but parked in level garage and tired with stand up and down and no difference. I ordered a fuel pump leaning that direction since spark plugs have no fuel after cranking many times. Mine a 2001 with 7000 miles. With the gas tank off at painters shop maybe something happened during handling??MAY SOUND STUPID BUT JIFFEY STAND IS SHORT. IF STARTING BIKE AND THE BIKE IS LEANING TOO MUCH TO THE LEFT ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY THE TIP OVER SWITCH IS ACTIVATED. I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY. ALSO THE PLACEMENT OF THE TIP OVER SWITCH LOCATION ON 99 AND2000 ARE A RECALL YOU CAN FIX YOURSELF.
Posted by UGLY
- October 07, 2016, 09:36:41 AMMAY SOUND STUPID BUT JIFFEY STAND IS SHORT. IF STARTING BIKE AND THE BIKE IS LEANING TOO MUCH TO THE LEFT ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY THE TIP OVER SWITCH IS ACTIVATED. I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY. ALSO THE PLACEMENT OF THE TIP OVER SWITCH LOCATION ON 99 AND2000 ARE A RECALL YOU CAN FIX YOURSELF.
Posted by Trall
- October 07, 2016, 08:52:32 AMQuote from: Troll on October 07, 2016, 03:51:03 AMMr. Troll, Here is what I did this morning after bike new battery set on tender all night.Now you have a new battery and probably fuel fouled plugs from your earlier attempts at starting. Did you keep your old plugs? I would screw one old one into each cylinder and try again. EVERY TIME I turn key from off to on I can hear fuel pump energizing and dash lights come on for few seconds and go out as they should.
**Unplug tender and tested battery. 13.57 volts.
**Pulled choke and tried to start bike with old plugs, held starter button down for five seconds and it only cranks, wait 10-15 seconds and held starter button down for 5 seconds and only cranks. Did that sequence three more times.
Immediately pulled each plug and BONE DRY AND NO FUEL ON THEM???WIERD
NEXT
**I have two extra new sets of the same NGK spark plugs NGK DPR6EA-9.
**Opened new set and checked gap, all same .08-.09 mm gap.
**Installed them and did starting sequence the same as above for 6 tries. Again every time key turned off and on I can hear fuel pump energize. Only Cranks.
**Checked all spark plugs again and their All Dry and No Fuel.
***SO it appears I have no fuel making contact with Spark Plugs. What should I do next??
****ALso is there a way to confirm spark plug spark when I don't have a piece of raw metal on the bike that the plug wire with spark plug attached will touch and check?? My engine is painted all black and chrome top engine cover is chrome. I bought a inline spark plug spark tester from Autozone last night but it will not fit the bikes spark plugs. I guess made for cars spark plugs.
Thanks Again
P.S. I have a harbor frieght freebie with coupon multimeter that I used to check battery. Don't really know how to use it but the battery was easy.
Posted by Troll
- October 07, 2016, 03:51:03 AMNow you have a new battery and probably fuel fouled plugs from your earlier attempts at starting. Did you keep your old plugs? I would screw one old one into each cylinder and try again.
Posted by Trall
- October 06, 2016, 18:47:32 PMQuote from: Pilgrim on October 06, 2016, 18:40:36 PMOk. I checked all my fuses again and just replaced them with new since there probably originals.I was wrong about the FI light in my earlier post, it's the oil light that stays on until the engine starts. On my 2001 the FI light comes on until the fuel pump cycles and then goes out.
Don't know man..when you hooked the fuel line to the tank did you hear a click.
Sure sounds like it is fuel starved.
No difference though. Just cranks