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Reason for editing: Last Edit: October 08, 2016, 12:21:20 PM by Trall

[quote author=Pilgrim link=topic=43945.msg98372#msg98372 date=1475853545]
Digging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0

I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.
[/quote]

Thx , I read the thread.  I finally found my repair manual buried in garage. It did mention FI relay that I checked last night when there is a no fuel issue in the manual.

It shows this FI relay test.  It shows to test for it with the Relay REMOVED from bike and not connected to bike at all (see Note below from my 1st screw up). 1st it says check for continuity between No. 3 and 4 terminals of the FI relay.  I removed neg. battery term. and removed relay.

When I use the multimeter for the first test on relay continuity without a battery hooked to terminal 1 and 2 my multimeter 
is on and dial turned to Ohms 20k and it only shows a 1 on the screen.   I believe from the videos I just watched on on to use my multimeter it should show 000 being a good test and good continuity.  I then turned the dial setting and tried at 200, 2000, 20k again,  200k, 2000k and all show 1 on screen.
So that FAILED the test???????

I then did second test and checked with a battery hooked up to terminal 1 and 2,  first I can hear the relay click on when hooked to power.
I then with meter checked 3 and 4 and on OHMS at 20k and the screen shows 000.  So it is GOOD test.

The manual says if it fails either test fails to replace relay.

*****Note-  I screwed up last night when first testing the FI fuse that could of caused it to go bad from my first initial test.  I did not read the key part of removing the FI fuse from the bike connector and doing the tests.  when I used my alligator clips from my second battery to connect to the 1,2 terminal it had a little  spark for a second and I stopped at that point and  then read the full test procedures and realized  ::) what I did it wrong.  SO MAYBE THAT DAMAGED THE FI RELAY AND AFTER DOING THE TWO CONTINUITY TESTS CORRECTLY THE 2ND TIME IT SHOWS BAD.  Maybe it was bad before or it became bad after I did the 1st check wrong had a small spark.

SO I have a bad FI relay but what caused it, the timing seems odd???  Can someone confirm I did the tests right???

Thanks again

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Topic summary

Posted by Troll

- October 08, 2016, 04:42:42 AM

you are SURE the fuel pump runs? Do you have a power commander or some such thing installed?

Posted by Pilgrim

- October 07, 2016, 10:19:05 AM

Digging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0

I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.

Posted by Trall

- October 07, 2016, 10:07:19 AM

Quote from: UGLY on October 07, 2016, 09:36:41 AM
MAY SOUND STUPID BUT JIFFEY STAND IS SHORT. IF STARTING BIKE AND THE BIKE IS LEANING TOO MUCH TO THE LEFT ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY THE TIP OVER SWITCH IS ACTIVATED. I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY. ALSO THE PLACEMENT OF THE TIP OVER SWITCH LOCATION ON 99 AND2000 ARE A RECALL YOU CAN FIX YOURSELF.

Thx but parked in level garage and tired with stand up and down and no difference. I ordered a fuel pump leaning that direction since spark plugs have no fuel after cranking many times. Mine a 2001 with 7000 miles. With the gas tank off at painters shop maybe something happened during handling??

Posted by UGLY

- October 07, 2016, 09:36:41 AM

MAY SOUND STUPID BUT JIFFEY STAND IS SHORT. IF STARTING BIKE AND THE BIKE IS LEANING TOO MUCH TO THE LEFT ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY THE TIP OVER SWITCH IS ACTIVATED. I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY. ALSO THE PLACEMENT OF THE TIP OVER SWITCH LOCATION ON 99 AND2000 ARE A RECALL YOU CAN FIX YOURSELF.

Posted by Trall

- October 07, 2016, 08:52:32 AM

Quote from: Troll on October 07, 2016, 03:51:03 AM
Now you have a new battery and probably fuel fouled plugs from your earlier attempts at starting. Did you keep your old plugs? I would screw one old one into each cylinder and try again. EVERY TIME I turn key from off to on I can hear fuel pump energizing and dash lights come on for few seconds and go out as they should.

Mr. Troll, Here is what I did this morning after bike new battery set on tender all night.

**Unplug tender and tested battery. 13.57 volts.

**Pulled choke and tried to start bike with old plugs, held starter button down for five seconds and it only cranks, wait 10-15 seconds and held starter button down for 5 seconds and only cranks. Did that sequence three more times.
Immediately pulled each plug and BONE DRY AND NO FUEL ON THEM???WIERD

**I have two extra new sets of the same NGK spark plugs NGK DPR6EA-9.

**Opened new set and checked gap, all same .08-.09 mm gap.

**Installed them and did starting sequence the same as above for 6 tries. Again every time key turned off and on I can hear fuel pump energize. Only Cranks.

**Checked all spark plugs again and their All Dry and No Fuel.

***SO it appears I have no fuel making contact with Spark Plugs. What should I do next?

****ALso is there a way to confirm spark plug spark when I don't have a piece of raw metal on the bike that the plug wire with spark plug attached will touch and check?? My engine is painted all black and chrome top engine cover is chrome. I bought a inline spark plug spark tester from Autozone last night but it will not fit the bikes spark plugs. I guess made for cars spark plugs.

Thanks Again
P.S. I have a harbor frieght freebie with coupon multimeter that I used to check battery. Don't really know how to use it but the battery was easy.

Posted by Troll

- October 07, 2016, 03:51:03 AM

Now you have a new battery and probably fuel fouled plugs from your earlier attempts at starting. Did you keep your old plugs? I would screw one old one into each cylinder and try again.

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 18:47:32 PM

Quote from: Pilgrim on October 06, 2016, 18:40:36 PM
I was wrong about the FI light in my earlier post, it's the oil light that stays on until the engine starts. On my 2001 the FI light comes on until the fuel pump cycles and then goes out.

Don't know man..when you hooked the fuel line to the tank did you hear a click.
Sure sounds like it is fuel starved.

Ok. I checked all my fuses again and just replaced them with new since there probably originals.

No difference though. Just cranks

Posted by Pilgrim

- October 06, 2016, 18:40:36 PM

I was wrong about the FI light in my earlier post, it's the oil light that stays on until the engine starts. On my 2001 the FI light comes on until the fuel pump cycles and then goes out.

Don't know man..when you hooked the fuel line to the tank did you hear a click.
Sure sounds like it is fuel starved.

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 18:30:01 PM

Quote from: Pilgrim on October 06, 2016, 11:33:53 AM
The FI light should stay on until the bike starts...check that fuse mentioned in this thread.

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=18326.0

My FI light comes on when I turn the key on and after a few seconds it goes out with the gas and coolant lights. The only light on is the oil light. When I try and start it goes out as it cranks.

I checked the tread but I checked the DFI main fuse. I actually just changed it with a new one since I checked it and its probably from 2001.

Since my FI does NOT stay on does that mean something or point to the problem??

I have a mechanic lined up but not until next Wednesday. The local dealer is booking three weeks out.

SO I have a newly painted beautiful Drifter just parked in the garage........

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 17:36:44 PM

I installed new Yausa battery and only cranks. Not sure. After I took gas tank off for 2nd time today and checked everything connected so I am at a lost. I checked plugs again and three looked dry and one tip was wet with gas.

From my spark plug test from yesterday I don't think checked for spark or anything since the engine is painted and no bare metal to get a ground. Touching chrome engine cover did not do anything but again not bare metal so don't think thats a good ground. IDK.

Then again engine started earlier today a few times for 10 seconds or less but would not stay started. Tried to give it gas with the throttle and just wanted to die. Then only would crank again and not start and old battery drained from trying.

Right now put tender on new battery to charge up again.

Posted by JagLite

- October 06, 2016, 15:12:32 PM

Oh, ho!
Bad battery is probably the problem.

My Honda VTX1800 always started and ran fine until one day, it only cranked over but would not start, not even fire a pop.
I spent a lot of time chasing possible failures and searching online for answers.
Most online posters agreed it was probably a dead ECU.

Before spending hundreds on a new ECU I bought a new battery.
It cranked over just as quickly as the old battery...
But now it starts right up.

Why? I dunno.
But it must have been not enough juice to spark even though enough to crank.

Hopefully a new, fully charged battery will solve the problem for you too.

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 12:59:00 PM

Quote from: Trall on October 06, 2016, 12:36:41 PM

I just checked and found the tip over switch. It was never moved only the gas tank. The tip over switch is in front of the battery box and just under the front washer bolt for the seat to slide into. The bottom gas tank bolt is in front of seat washer bolt so the tip over switch was always in the same spot.

I tried to start the bike again and after a third try and about to give up it started for about 10 seconds and died, tried again and it started for 10 seconds and the FI light stayed ON but died. I tried to start it again and FI light still ON and died after 10 seconds. Tried to start again and battery stopped trying to crank. Its seems about dead. Electrical still turns on.

Its a unknown age on battery and since I just got bike it the one part thats not new.

I went to run a jumper wire from ECU to neg battery term. and count the flashes for a code but after removing battery to pull out ECU and then reconnecting battery the FI light reset and is off again from removing the battery I guess. When you turn key on it lights up and goes out.

I can only get a few cranks on battery now and its dead.

So I am going to get a new battery today and see what happens after that.........

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 12:36:41 PM

Quote from: JagLite on October 06, 2016, 12:19:31 PM

Did you install the tip over switch at the rear tank mount correctly? I am not sure what or where thats at. I don't see anything at the rear gas tank mount........

I have a 2001 so maybe its located somewhere else?

Posted by JagLite

- October 06, 2016, 12:19:31 PM

Thumb kill switch on?

No spark points to an electrical problem to me.

Test each fuse, don't just look at it, some can burn and still look perfect.

Did you install the tip over switch at the rear tank mount correctly?

Do you have a multi-meter to check the electrical system?
if so, check voltage/resistance to the coils, through the coils, and to the spark plug caps.
Do you have the shop manual that gives the specs and instructions for where/how to check?
I have the Haynes (?) manual and it has quite a bit of diagnostic information.

Even new parts can be defective unfortunately.

Posted by Pilgrim

- October 06, 2016, 11:33:53 AM

The FI light should stay on until the bike starts...check that fuse mentioned in this thread.

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=18326.0

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