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Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 11, 2014, 13:03:41 PMThanks for the heads up. I will order it tonight.
Posted by Troll
- December 11, 2014, 09:28:19 AMHere's a thought. While you have it all apart, there is a $35 bearing in the bevel drive that could and does fail. Mine went at about 75,000 miles and, although it didn't do any real damage to anything, it did cause quite a bit of angst and frustration....You have it all apart now, so a little preemptive replacement could save you lots of grief down the road....
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 10, 2014, 23:13:10 PMSure, I'd be happy to.
Posted by 49Reo
- December 10, 2014, 20:44:35 PM.....can I send you my Jeep engine.....it needs fixing.....lol
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 10, 2014, 19:49:07 PMHere are some images of the right side (clutch) engine cover.
Posted by chief
- December 09, 2014, 09:58:21 AMQuote from: Troll on December 05, 2014, 09:12:30 AMFrom what I can tell, no Drifters used a POG, and none of the injected 1500s used it, either. It was strictly a carbed 1500 thing...
That is correct. No POGs on Drifters.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 08, 2014, 19:09:09 PMThese pic's detail the alternator rotor which has been damaged. If you look close at the first pic you can see little chunks of the magnet removed. Followed up with a pic of the metal shavings built up on the pickup coils. The last pic is just to show that the rotor is in fact...a magnet.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 08, 2014, 19:04:09 PMFresh pic's of the continued disassembly and use of the pry points to pull the cover.
Posted by Troll
- December 05, 2014, 09:12:30 AMQuote from: 49Reo on December 04, 2014, 20:12:52 PMTroll, what year used the plastic oil pump gear?
From what I can tell, no Drifters used a POG, and none of the injected 1500s used it, either. It was strictly a carbed 1500 thing...
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 04, 2014, 20:42:19 PMThank you for your suggestions Troll. If anything seems funny along the way I'll certainly ask you so (hopefully) nothing gets missed.
Posted by 49Reo
- December 04, 2014, 20:12:52 PMTroll, what year used the plastic oil pump gear?
Posted by Troll
- December 04, 2014, 19:32:46 PMTo check the bearings, the crank must be removed.....if everything else seems to be decent, and there is no funny business when you take the covers off, I guess I would chance it....These engines have a very automotive bottom end, with car style plain bearings, so they are probably going to be all right....It was just a thought....
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 04, 2014, 19:03:20 PMI am going to avoid splitting the case unless something unusual comes up when I pull off the L&R covers. I soaked the HLA's and 5 are good and 3 on order. Yea, the valves I will check real careful especially from the growth/corrosion that was on the intakes (seen when I removed the throttle body).
Do I need to split the case to check the main & rod bearings?
Posted by Troll
- December 04, 2014, 18:31:34 PMThat's a good sign there is no serious wear on the engine. Are you planning on splitting the cases? You should check the main and rod bearings. One thing I would suggest is that you either soak the hydraulic units in a STRONG solvent, or replace them. I have one of the 8 that sometimes bleeds down and will click...very annoying. Check the valve stem/guide clearance very carefully. In this day of nolead fuel, valve guides wear more than they ever did. Maybe when I get 150,000 on the engine I will tear it down and replace them all...93,000 on it now, and that's the only issue.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 04, 2014, 17:02:43 PMIt sure is nice to have the people in this forum to assist when there's a question CDNRatMan.
Troll, we (machinist and I) measured the wear and clearance and everything is in spec (0.06604mm piston/cyl clearance).