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Posted by mittico68
- December 04, 2014, 04:46:25 AMQuote from: Elmo Hayride on December 03, 2014, 11:06:21 AMmittico68, to be fair, my knowledge about mechanics comes from reading and trying.
If only it were an equation exact (reading & proving = ability), I guess we all should be able to do everything...
But there are so many variables that make the difference between a good mechanic and a bad theoretical! 
Posted by Troll
- December 03, 2014, 19:14:37 PMAnd so...it begins!
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 03, 2014, 16:58:21 PMHere's the 1st shipment of parts I got today.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 03, 2014, 14:11:08 PMThat's great Troll, thank you for your input. I see that the factory provides over sized pistons and rings for that very issue. I'll measure it to see where I'm at.
Posted by Troll
- December 03, 2014, 13:44:05 PMThe fit of the piston thrust skirt is VERY important to engine longevity and overall noise level. A loose piston will knock when cold, and may stop knocking when hot...or may not. This will not only make for a noisy engine, but there will be a penalty in performance and oil control. The piston is not round, but rather oval, and the piston skirts are at 90 deg. to the wrist pin. Scoring and/or wear will cause the clearance to be too great. Depending on bore diameter, it might be more useful for long term use to have the engine cylinders bored first oversize and fitted by an expert machinist/engine builder. I see you have a factory manual, so look at section 4, pages 4-5 and up to get the specs.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 03, 2014, 11:06:21 AMmittico68, to be fair, my knowledge about mechanics comes from reading and trying.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 03, 2014, 11:03:56 AMTroll, what is the skirt clearance? I am not a veteran mechanic by any means so if you could use layman terms I'd really appreciate it 
Posted by Troll
- December 03, 2014, 09:58:08 AMDid you check the skirt clearance yet? Looking nice is one thing, but the wear factor is more important. The manual specifies a minimum of .00169 inches to a max of .00275 inches.
Posted by mittico68
- December 03, 2014, 05:15:57 AMAwesome report!
Ehy Elmo, I'd like to have all your knowledge about mechanics, just to be able to avoid spending money each time ma-deuce (& my car too) needs a check... 
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 02, 2014, 18:24:48 PMIt was a combination of washing and bead blast. I'm glad I didn't need to buy new pistons.
I hung the engine on a trapeze rig I made a couple of years ago. It's a lot easier than working on the ground.
Posted by Bucko
- December 02, 2014, 17:43:59 PMWhat did you use/do to get those pistons so clean?
PS: Thanks for posting the pictures - very interesting.
Posted by Troll
- December 02, 2014, 16:05:11 PMI thought, from your earlier posts, that this was a REPLACEMENT engine......my mistake.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 02, 2014, 11:55:04 AMYes John, the insides are good. The new parts will be a bit but it will be nice to have a spare 1999 1500. The heads and such have been cleaned (boiled) and shot at the machinists shop and will be finished (how I don't know yet) powder/painted.
Posted by John Hopkins
- December 02, 2014, 10:13:33 AMIt does look very corroded on the outside but the inside looks quite good, I think it was a very good investment for only $100.
If you have the use of a shot blaster that could look really good in a short time..the cost of gaskets and o'rings and nuts and bolts is going to put a dent in your christmas present money..
I wish you every success in your project, but even if it gets too much for you the parts will make you a good profit on ebay.
John.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- December 01, 2014, 19:26:09 PMNot sure what you mean Troll. This is an extra motor I bought.