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Posted by waltervl
- September 13, 2013, 09:48:13 AMFrom http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
Start with fully charged battery
Step 1 - Bike Leakage Current Test
Skip this for the moment.
Step 2 - Battery Charge-Holding Test
Connect the -VE strap / clamp to the -VE battery terminal, so the battery is fully connected to the
bike. The battery voltage should measure 12V7 to 13V1 measured across the stud terminals on top
of the battery (ignition switch OFF). Switch on the headlights (ignition ON, engine OFF). Battery stud
voltage should drop slowly, maybe down to about 12v4 over a period of 30 seconds. Switch off the
headlights and ignition soon.
If battery stud voltage drops below 12V4, the battery is not good and should be replaced.
Step 3 - Functional Test of Whole Battery Charging System
Complete all connections between the Generator, Regulator Rectifier Unit, Battery - just as normal.
Set the meter to show DC VOLTS and connect the meter clips only to the stud terminals directly on
top of the battery. The battery voltage should measure between 12V7 to 13V1 with engine OFF.
Start up the engine and run at low idle speed. Meter should show battery charging voltage around
14V4 (limits are 13V6 to 14V9) at idle. Increasing engine speed should produce NO proportional increase
in battery voltage, but often will produce some small and meaningless variations in voltage.
Battery voltage should always remain between 13V6 and 14V9 while charging.
Switching the headlight on and off creates big changes in power draw on the generator and battery,
which usually results in a slight reduction of battery charging voltage. On older bikes it may be necessary
to increase engine speed slightly (maybe 2500RPM) so charging can keep up with the headlight
current.
Charge voltage >15V? RR is defective, needs to be replaced.
Posted by Troll
- September 13, 2013, 08:01:00 AMSounds like a battery problem. You need to put your volt meter on the battery WHILE you are cranking. Bad cell connectors will act like this. Good voltage while there is no load, and massive voltage drop when there is...
Posted by David Baker
- September 12, 2013, 20:00:18 PMHow are the plugs? As well as the plug caps? Also have checked the throttle adjustment on the right side just under the air cover between the cylinders?
Posted by Anti-hero
- September 12, 2013, 19:49:35 PMItll turn over and if I keep turning it over I hear the clicking sound like if the battery died... But when use a jump box or a car battery it'll start fine.... But before the clicking it'll turn over but won't turn on
Posted by Troll
- September 12, 2013, 19:38:46 PMQuote from: Anti-hero on September 12, 2013, 19:25:40 PMYea it's a '99 I believe it's a "j"... When the bike starts it'll idle and then slowly turn off but if I pull out the knob it does raise the idle and won't turn off also if I have it in gear... But the big problem is that when I turn off the bike it won't start back up unless I jump it and like I said before the battery is charged and the terminals/cables are good too
Please describe what happens BEFORE you resort to jump starting..do you get a buzz, or clicking, what? If you have it connected to a car battery, does it start normally
Posted by Anti-hero
- September 12, 2013, 19:25:40 PMYea it's a '99 I believe it's a "j"... When the bike starts it'll idle and then slowly turn off but if I pull out the knob it does raise the idle and won't turn off also if I have it in gear... But the big problem is that when I turn off the bike it won't start back up unless I jump it and like I said before the battery is charged and the terminals/cables are good too
Posted by Troll
- September 12, 2013, 18:49:46 PMIs it a "J" or an "R"...'99-2000 have the filter outside the tank, '01 and up have it inside. I don't think this is a filter problem. You say it won't stall if the choke is pulled out...that just raises the idle. The correct idle speed is 1,000 rpm. There is no real choke, just an idle boost from the knob. Are the fast idle solenoids inside the right air box cover connected? Since I got mine, I have had 2 things happen..I have had cataract surgery, so now I can see, and I have read my service manual cover to cover...
Posted by Anti-hero
- September 12, 2013, 18:20:20 PMIf this is the case what do I look for excatly and do I have to replace the whole filter?
Posted by dakuhosu
- September 12, 2013, 17:57:00 PMSounds like a clogged fuel filter.
Posted by Anti-hero
- September 12, 2013, 15:06:39 PMMy bike is starting to act funny... It started fine and now it won't start I need to Juno it and when it's in neutral it'll slowly starting stalling but in first gear it won't or I I have the choke pulled... The battery actually has a full good charge and the terminal cables are in good contact... What could it be? I hope it's something rele simple and not expensive... Oh and my rear tire size is 1508016 is it safe to use a 1608016? Thanks much appreciative...