Help??

[dakuhosu]

I always want to make it a big deal but it's always a clogged filter, low battery or something easy, that's why it's a Kawasaki. Just needs a little love and maintenance.

[Anti-hero]

So it turns out it was the battery haha

[greenbarn]

Sounds like a battery problem. You need to put your volt meter on the battery WHILE you are cranking. Bad cell connectors will act like this. Good voltage while there is no load, and massive voltage drop when there is...

Batteries can do some weird things...

+1 and +1.   Everything - computer, fuel pump, runs off battery voltage.  Low voltage makes a lot of stuff act strange.

[chief]

Batteries can do some weird things... on my GW, the cruise control would stop working while the bike was running... then it would refuse to start... cranked fine for a bit then nothing. Replaced the battery and still problems. The NEW battery was bad!

The Drifter, would sometimes start, sometimes not... again a relatively new battery... after sitting a bit it wouldn't start.

Both were cured with new batteries, cleaning and applying dielectric grease on connections. If your bike sits outside this is even more important. With almost anything electrical, I always start with the battery cables then the battery.

[waltervl]

From

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Start with fully charged battery
Step 1 - Bike Leakage Current Test
Skip this for the moment.

Step 2 - Battery Charge-Holding Test
Connect the -VE strap / clamp to the -VE battery terminal, so the battery is fully connected to the
bike. The battery voltage should measure 12V7 to 13V1 measured across the stud terminals on top
of the battery (ignition switch OFF). Switch on the headlights (ignition ON, engine OFF). Battery stud
voltage should drop slowly, maybe down to about 12v4 over a period of 30 seconds. Switch off the
headlights and ignition soon.
If battery stud voltage drops below 12V4, the battery is not good and should be replaced.

Step 3 - Functional Test of Whole Battery Charging System
Complete all connections between the Generator, Regulator Rectifier Unit, Battery - just as normal.
Set the meter to show DC VOLTS and connect the meter clips only to the stud terminals directly on
top of the battery. The battery voltage should measure between 12V7 to 13V1 with engine OFF.
Start up the engine and run at low idle speed. Meter should show battery charging voltage around
14V4 (limits are 13V6 to 14V9) at idle. Increasing engine speed should produce NO proportional increase
in battery voltage, but often will produce some small and meaningless variations in voltage.
Battery voltage should always remain between 13V6 and 14V9 while charging.
Switching the headlight on and off creates big changes in power draw on the generator and battery,
which usually results in a slight reduction of battery charging voltage. On older bikes it may be necessary
to increase engine speed slightly (maybe 2500RPM) so charging can keep up with the headlight
current.
Charge voltage >15V? RR is defective, needs to be replaced.

[Troll]

Sounds like a battery problem. You need to put your volt meter on the battery WHILE you are cranking. Bad cell connectors will act like this. Good voltage while there is no load, and massive voltage drop when there is...

[David Baker]

How are the plugs? As well as the plug caps? Also have checked the throttle adjustment on the right side just under the air cover between the cylinders?

[Anti-hero]

Itll turn over and if I keep turning it over I hear the clicking sound like if the battery died... But when use a jump box or a car battery it'll start fine.... But before the clicking it'll turn over but won't turn on

[Troll]

Yea it's a '99 I believe it's a "j"... When the bike starts it'll idle and then slowly turn off but if I pull out the knob it does raise the idle and won't turn off also if I have it in gear... But the big problem is that when I turn off the bike it won't start back up unless I jump it and like I said before the battery is charged and the terminals/cables are good too

Please describe what happens BEFORE you resort to jump starting..do you get a buzz, or clicking, what? If you have it connected to a car battery, does it start normally

[Anti-hero]

Yea it's a '99 I believe it's a "j"... When the bike starts it'll idle and then slowly turn off but if I pull out the knob it does raise the idle and won't turn off also if I have it in gear... But the big problem is that when I turn off the bike it won't start back up unless I jump it and like I said before the battery is charged and the terminals/cables are good too

[Troll]

Is it a "J" or an "R"...'99-2000 have the filter outside the tank, '01 and up have it inside. I don't think this is a filter problem. You say it won't stall if the choke is pulled out...that just raises the idle. The correct idle speed is 1,000 rpm. There is no real choke, just an idle boost from the knob. Are the fast idle solenoids inside the right air box cover connected? Since I got mine, I have had 2 things happen..I have had cataract surgery, so now I can see, and I have read my service manual cover to cover...

[Anti-hero]

If this is the case what do I look for excatly and do I have to replace the whole filter?

[dakuhosu]

Sounds like a clogged fuel filter.

[Anti-hero]

My bike is starting to act funny... It started fine and now it won't start I need to Juno it and when it's in neutral it'll slowly starting stalling but in first gear it won't or I I have the choke pulled... The battery actually has a full good charge and the terminal cables are in good contact... What could it be? I hope it's something rele simple and not expensive... Oh and my rear tire size is 1508016 is it safe to use a 1608016? Thanks much appreciative...