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Posted by Troll
- March 28, 2019, 07:47:30 AMThe resistor is for the fuel injected models...can't see why you would need it at all on a carbed model
Posted by rob f
- March 25, 2019, 07:47:51 AMFirst thing that I would do, is if you have a spare set of plugs, pull the sparkplug wires, hook in the spare plugs, ground the spark plug body to a good ground and then crank it over. This will tell you if they are getting spark or not and take the guessing out of it. Could be fuel related.
Greenbarn is correct about the crimpon connectors. Soldering is the best , but untill you get it working properly, the crimpon is at least reversible. Soldering not so much. However, I have run into 3 way crimpons a lot on farm equipment and most of them were fine. Di-electrical grease and tape also helps.
Posted by mittico68
- March 25, 2019, 02:37:36 AMYou're right, GB. That's the gray wire...
About the resistor: I'll take a closer look at it, asap, just to be sure that is a 100 ohm one.
About connections: I'm not very experienced at it, but I've soldered the extensions of the Kawi harness connector wires and they look pretty good and strong. Next thing actually to do, test them... 
Then I've used the quick-crimp connectors for the red/blu connection and the gray/brown too. I understand that now I must test them too... 
And here's the wiring diagram of mine.
Posted by greenbarn
- March 24, 2019, 20:17:13 PMI have not done this mod, or really looked at my ignition switch- so in the dark a little here. But, there are a couple of basics.
You said in your last post, the brown wire goes to the ignitor -- It looks to me from the diagram that it's the gray wire that should have the resistor and is going to the ignitor. Do you have this on the gray or the brown wire?
Are you sure your resistor is correct? It will have to be pretty close to work- I read somewhere a few years ago, this is a theft feature, I think.
How are you making your connections? Are you experienced at wiring? Do you know for sure the connections are good, either from visually being able to see (based on how you did them), or testing them?? Personally, I don't recommend the quick-crimp connectors. I've seen many many failures from these - you can't see for sure they have a positive connection, and they are prone to coming loose, corrosion, and a mess of failures. Solder and heat-shrink, or heat-shrink crimp connectors - either if done correctly are reliable.
Can you draw up a wiring diagram of what you have done??
Posted by mittico68
- March 24, 2019, 14:07:27 PMNew update.
I ended the h-d switch job and tried both the solutions: as I thought, the only way to have the tail & city lights workin' is to connect the red wire to the blu wire. And it works!
So, the good news is that when I turn the h-d switch to the IGN position (see the Thunder switch graphic), both the tail & city lights are on. And if I hit the brake (front or rear), its light goes on too.
Now, the BAD news... 
After turning the h-d switch to the IGN position, I tryed to start the engine but it's been a failure.
I mean, the igniter goes on but the engine doesn't start to run!
So, could it be because of the spark plugs receiving no impulse at all? 
As far as I can understand from the Kawi wiring diagram, the brown wire (ignition) goes straight to the IC Igniter and this feeds the ignition coils & spark plugs. So, could it be because the h-d switch needs the brown wire to be connected to the gray wire, this generates the malfunction? 
Awaitin' for all your suggestions...
Posted by Tfrank59
- March 22, 2019, 21:25:16 PMWow electrical can be such a can o' worms!! Good luck and keep us posted.
Posted by mittico68
- March 21, 2019, 09:37:36 AMThanx again Rob, for all your kind infos and how to's!
I had already cut the wires of the Kawi switch (very close to it) and added the ohm resistor to its gray wire...
Now I must complete the job, by connecting the brown and the gray wires and solder them together.
BTW, the HD switch of my own has got no wires at all: so, I have to wire it to the Kawi harness connector.
I thought to try first the "brake light only" version of the Whole thing: so, I'll connect just the blu wire by itself and see what happens, once the engine is runnig (I hope!).
Then, if (as I think) the tail light won't work, I'll try the "brake + tail light" version: I'll splice the red wire to the blue wire (with the Whole thing off of the bike...) and see what happens.
I will report the results, asap.
Cross fingers!
Posted by rob f
- March 21, 2019, 08:42:10 AMMy pic didn't work so try this...........http://www.howtosplicewire.com/splicing-wires.html
Posted by rob f
- March 21, 2019, 08:36:02 AMYes that is correct. Does the HD switch connector match the drifter harness connector? I believe not, so you will have to use the harness from your old drifter switch. DO NOT cut any thing off of the harness still on the bike.
Take the old Kawi switch and cut the wires as close to the body of the switch as you can. This what you will hook back into the bike harness once you have spliced it into the HD switch. Now cut the wires from the HD switch as far away from the body of the switch ( by the connector) Now you can splice the Kawi harness into the HD switch like in the pics on your links. The best way of splicing wires is soldering and shrink tubing. For the red and red/blue splice you can do this on this harness and I would use a splicer like in the pic i am sending. These splicers can be removed easily if some thing goes wrong. I also recommend dielectrical grease on this splice and at each end of the harness.
Posted by mittico68
- March 21, 2019, 04:10:10 AMOkay, got it.
So, the only chance for me to have the tail light working with the HD switch is to connect the red wire (T2) to the blue/red wire (T1).
Correct?
If so, HOW?
Posted by rob f
- March 20, 2019, 11:39:35 AMYes as long as the Red(T2) which is tail+ plate light, is connected to the blue/Red T1 which is brake light.
If you would like i can try to send you a wiring diagram out of my tech manual.
Posted by mittico68
- March 20, 2019, 10:09:10 AMThanx for your inputs, Rob.
Ok, so if I really wanna go with the HD ignition switch, I must be concerned that it won't allow the park position to work.
BUT, would the tail light work? I mean, the tail + brake lights.
Posted by rob f
- March 20, 2019, 09:00:09 AMMitt, I have been trying to come with a solution for you but can't. I have read the links you provided, studied them and then studied my tech manual diagram. I took me about an hour to figure it all out. The whole thing is very confusing ( for me anyway). Here is what i found:
The original Drifter switch is unique because TL 1(bl) and TL2 (r) are connected in the on position and fed only from the Alternator with engine running. When you go to Park then they are separated and TL 2 ( tail, license plate and city light) are fed directly from the battery (w)
The Harley switch can't separate and rejoin TL1 and TL2 .( I think)
The fellow that posted the https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=3625.0 is correct about the wiring
I would also be concerned about the Harley switch because it appears to feed the tail lights direct from the battery whereas Kawi only feeds them when the engine is running from the alternator.
I was thinking that maybe you could wire a separate fused toggle switch to turn on TL2 but I am sure that it would back feed the current somehow. so I wouldn't recommend this.
I think that if you want Park then you will have to get a Kawi switch. SWITCH-ASSY-IGNITION 27005-1204 on E-bay from $140 US
I hope that I read my diagrams correctly and hope that my info is correct. Electrical diagnosis can be a nightmare sometimes as i have found out in my 30+ years of mechanics. Just when you think you know it all, something shows up that just stumps a guy.
If someone else would like to jump in and set me straight or back me up, please do.
Always get a second opinion Mitt
Posted by mittico68
- March 18, 2019, 07:18:29 AMOk, so I made my homeworks.
I read this: https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/jobearIgnition.html
And then this: https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=3625.0
But still there's something I can't understand: I can use the OEM connector harness, by wiring it to the HD ignition switch; I must connect:
- the (red) wire from the switch ACC connector to the (red/blu) wire that feeds the brake taillight;
- the (white) wire from the switch BATT connector to the (white) wire that comes from the battery;
- the (brown + yellow) wire from the switch IGN connector to the (brown + gray) wires that goes to the IC Igniter and the junction box.
I do not have to connect the (red) wire to the (red) one that feeds the park taillight, because it has got no fuse: but I'd like to have the park + license plate lights to work properly... So, how could I do?
Thanx guys for your help.
Posted by mittico68
- March 18, 2019, 03:23:46 AMI think I've finally found the real problem: after havin' checked the rear bulb lights (they're working fine) and tested their wires (BTW GB, I've got a digital volt meter), I've discovered that it isn't a bad ground or similar.
While checkin' out the key switch, I've seen that the electrical contacts plastic base is broken in two! And this causes the contacts to malfunction...
I must admit that after 20 years of activity, I should have known that wrinkles can come out... But now I have to buy the whole switch case and wires, and I guess it will cost me a lot!
BUT, as all not evils come to harm, that'll be my spur to complete one of this winter's mods: the ignition switch relocation on the dash panel.
I already got a H-D ignition switch (black), so now all I have to do is buy some wires, make a new dash panel and read the discussions on the subject, over this Forum!