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Posted by mittico68
- March 18, 2019, 07:18:29 AMOk, so I made my homeworks.
I read this: https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/jobearIgnition.html
And then this: https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=3625.0
But still there's something I can't understand: I can use the OEM connector harness, by wiring it to the HD ignition switch; I must connect:
- the (red) wire from the switch ACC connector to the (red/blu) wire that feeds the brake taillight;
- the (white) wire from the switch BATT connector to the (white) wire that comes from the battery;
- the (brown + yellow) wire from the switch IGN connector to the (brown + gray) wires that goes to the IC Igniter and the junction box.
I do not have to connect the (red) wire to the (red) one that feeds the park taillight, because it has got no fuse: but I'd like to have the park + license plate lights to work properly... So, how could I do?
Thanx guys for your help.
Posted by mittico68
- March 18, 2019, 03:23:46 AMI think I've finally found the real problem: after havin' checked the rear bulb lights (they're working fine) and tested their wires (BTW GB, I've got a digital volt meter), I've discovered that it isn't a bad ground or similar.
While checkin' out the key switch, I've seen that the electrical contacts plastic base is broken in two! And this causes the contacts to malfunction... 
I must admit that after 20 years of activity, I should have known that wrinkles can come out... But now I have to buy the whole switch case and wires, and I guess it will cost me a lot!
BUT, as all not evils come to harm, that'll be my spur to complete one of this winter's mods: the ignition switch relocation on the dash panel.
I already got a H-D ignition switch (black), so now all I have to do is buy some wires, make a new dash panel and read the discussions on the subject, over this Forum!
Posted by greenbarn
- March 17, 2019, 22:03:10 PMQuote from: mittico68 on March 14, 2019, 10:24:36 AMUpdate.
I've tested the white wire that feeds the key switch, and it works well (BTW: thanx RobF for your suggestion!).
So I also checked the key switch itself, but everything looks good to me.
But tail and "city" lights still don't work, with the "on" mode...
Worst thing, I've also found that even the stop light doesn't work! I mean: when I hit either the front or the back brake, I can ear the "click" of the brake switch but no light at all...
I hope it depends on the bulb light (I still have to check it out), otherwise what the hell is going on?
Do you have a test light? It's a pretty simple process to test out a light circuit if you have a test light -- I think no tool kit is complete without one. You can try this and that, and change out a part - but much time is wasted guessing and sometimes there is more than one problem, which makes it hard to find. A test light (or digital volt meter works fine too, but test light is just easier for a lighting circuit) makes it quick and easy to trace down the problem.
Your problem might be a bad ground - like Texas said - but where is it bad ? if you test for power and ground at the plug - find out what you have and what you dont have - then go back to the connector by the front of the fender and check it there -- etc. -- you'll track it down.
Posted by Texasdrifter
- March 14, 2019, 16:21:32 PMThis sounds like you have a bad ground. Check all the ground to frame connections. If all else fails try running a ground wire from frame to ground on one of the lights that is not working and see if that corrects it.
Posted by mittico68
- March 14, 2019, 10:24:36 AMUpdate.
I've tested the white wire that feeds the key switch, and it works well (BTW: thanx RobF for your suggestion!).
So I also checked the key switch itself, but everything looks good to me.
But tail and "city" lights still don't work, with the "on" mode...
Worst thing, I've also found that even the stop light doesn't work! I mean: when I hit either the front or the back brake, I can hear the "click" of the brake switch but no light at all...
I hope it depends on the bulb light (I still have to check it out), otherwise what the hell is going on? 
Posted by mittico68
- March 05, 2019, 09:39:46 AMQuote from: Texasdrifter on March 04, 2019, 15:05:59 PMAlso check all the fuses. I believe the spot lamps are run off the Auxiliary circuit. If your switch is bad, I have a good one that I can send you for just the postage and cost to get a extra key made to include.
Let us know what you find.
I forgot to mention that while I was checkin' at the spotlights, I've found that their own fuse was dead, so I've fixed it with a new one.
Still have to check the ignition key, as soon as I'll have some spare time...
Posted by Texasdrifter
- March 04, 2019, 15:05:59 PMQuote from: mittico68 on March 04, 2019, 12:29:07 PMThnax guys, for your suggestions.
I'll check the key switch asap and will report it.
Also check all the fuses. I believe the spot lamps are run off the Auxiliary circuit. If your switch is bad, I have a good one that I can send you for just the postage and cost to get a extra key made to include.
Let us know what you find.
Posted by mittico68
- March 04, 2019, 12:29:07 PMThanx guys, for your suggestions.
I'll check the key switch asap and will report it.
Posted by rob f
- March 04, 2019, 12:08:19 PMJust went through my tech manual and studied the wiring diagram for a non US/Can bike.
From what i see is that there is only one RED wire that comes from the key switch that feeds the tail light,licence plate light and an extra bulb in the headlight assembly called the "city light". This red wire is fed from 2 sources inside the key switch.. the on mode and the park mode. If it works in Park then all your bulbs, grounds and live systems are ok and it's like Tom said, it's in the switch. The switch is fed 12v by the white wire which should be live all the time. If it was faulty then you would have nothing working. An easy test is with key off, take a jumper wire from WHITE to RED ( Not R/BL)
The US/Can switch appears to work the same except no city light bulb in the headlight system.
Rob
Posted by Tfrank59
- March 04, 2019, 10:57:19 AMI really suck at electrical so I won't be much help sorry. One thing I know is a lot of those problems could be caused by a bad ground-- have you tried chasing down something along those lines?
Wait, I just re-read your post. So you're saying that depending on the key position the lights will work? Wouldn't that suggest that the key switch is faulty or at least the contacts inside? Sorry if I've misunderstood the problem.
Posted by mittico68
- March 04, 2019, 09:49:03 AMLong story short.
A few days ago my spotlights went suddenly out of life.
So, first thing I did is to check the bulb lights: everything is ok.
So I started to look for the issue, going back along the hot wire, but while attempting at it, some more sh#t came out: the parking lights are no more working, rear and front. 
The weird thingh is that if I switch the ignition key to the "parking" position, those lights work well...
Actually I've found that the parking light hot wire inside the head light has got no power, when I switch on the key and fire up the engine and lights.
I know that the american (and canadian) version of the bike doesn't have the parking light, according to the manual. But I do sincerely hope that someone of you good fellas can help me out with this issue anyway!
Thanx you all, for your kind replies.