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Posted by Troll
- July 25, 2018, 16:27:14 PMHave you checked for injection pulses yet?
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 25, 2018, 15:02:17 PMThe fuel pump cycles for the requisite 2-3 seconds when I turn the key on. The FI Light does not stay on after initial startup mode. The only thing that stays lit is the oil light, after the engine cranks, so apparently there are no problems with the DFI, or so my manual says. I grounded terminal 37 to the battery ground and got no codes or flashes of any kind. 
Posted by Indian_fan
- July 22, 2018, 20:15:53 PMI sent you a pm. I might be able to help you out with an Ecm or other parts if needed.
Posted by chief
- July 22, 2018, 11:27:28 AMYou know you can get the ECU to do a self diagnosis. It will tell you if there are problems with various sensors, pickup/ignition coils, injectors and fuel pump.
Posted by OR Seedman
- July 20, 2018, 18:33:04 PMwhen you turn on the key/ignition, do you hear the fuel pump prime up for a couple of seconds? if not, then you may be looking at a bad fuel pump in the tank....just a thought....
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 16, 2018, 16:34:58 PMWell, tried a new Interstate 12 volt Battery, 270 CCA..................no luck. Still fires right off with a fog of starting fluid in the throttle bodies, but won't draw any fuel. Didn't want to have to take the tank off and all that but I guess that is the next course of action and check to see if there are any fuel blockages.
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 13, 2018, 00:57:53 AMYea, I'm going to add a 12 volt source to the freshly charged battery and see what happens. Most likely will jump off my truck, engine off. I've been using a Fleet Farm battery(Roadrunner) for the last 2years and seemed to work ok, but maybe this las winter was the killer for it.
Posted by greenbarn
- July 12, 2018, 22:33:37 PMBattery condition is a BIG factor for the 1500 to start. If it doesn't really crank over good, it seems to not get enough current to run the fuel injection. You could try charging the battery for a bit, to see if this make it start.
Yuasa is a popular battery. I use Interstate because I have a good source. I've heard folks on the forum that have had good luck with what I would call "economy" batteries from Ebay/Amazon.Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 12, 2018, 10:32:08 AMWent out this morning with a kinda fresh battery, installed same, disconnected the fuel controller and turned it over. Viola, sort of. I got an engine pop!. Now considering I couldn't even ger a whiff of gas.....this is a step in right direction. I think some of my problem is the battery. Just not enough juice to excite the ECM to work fully. Can anyone recommend a battery they know to have the juice to do the job?
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 11, 2018, 22:16:52 PMI just want to comment on how helpful and knowledgeable everyone here seems to be. I knew I could come here and get straight answers and advice with no BS. Thanks again all................ 
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 11, 2018, 22:12:05 PMYes, I have a FI2000 Cobra Fuel Controller.......it was installed when I bought the bike. No problems with it........until now if it proves to be the problem. Will keep you all posted. Thanks for all the help and advice.
Posted by greenbarn
- July 08, 2018, 09:08:55 AMBob, you have an aftermarket fuel controller??? If so, I would try unhooking it to see if it fixes the problem--- I've heard of more than one that caused a bike to not start.
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 06, 2018, 23:55:12 PMThis is one of the reasons I switched to Japanese bikes from Harleys. One hardly ever has problems like this from a Japanese bike, while I spent more time than I can count working on Harleys just to keep them on the road. Still own one and ride it quite a bit, but age and laziness make me ride the rice burners most of the time. Plus, you turn the key, push the button, and go...............
Posted by bikerbob5864
- July 06, 2018, 22:33:53 PMWell, I have to do something, otherwise I've got nothing but a big lump of steel and plastic to look at. I hate this crap when it happens. 3 years, not a hint of trouble or a hiccup from the motor. 10,000 miles
Posted by Troll
- July 06, 2018, 18:21:37 PMMaybe. The big problem with these controllers is that the scotch locks break the wires and allow corrosion inside the harness. We are talking VERY LOW AMPERAGE here...normally .5 or less @12 V. Corrosion inside the harness will really mess things up.