Rear shock psi and damper setting?

[Troll]

The springs were so much more than just worth the money. They will prevent me from having to replace the neck bearings again, which were notched after just 12,000 miles last year. If you are going to do just the springs, without changing the oil, it's a really easy job. You don't have to take much apart. The chrome plastic caps on the upper clamp pop out, and below them are the fork plugs. They push down and there is an earless snap ring retaining them. I made a tool to hold them down while I took out the snap ring, but you could have somebody push down with the tip of a #3 Phillips screw driver while you take the ring out. There is very little preload, so the removal and reinstallation is an easy job. Just make sure you have the front end supported  with the wheel off the ground, and maybe lock the fork neck lock to prevent it moving on you.

[alamogeorge]

So you would say that adding the fork springs was worth the money?

[Troll]

I an very happy with the front end now. I put in the springs and dumped the fish oil that was in them. I made a fork oil level gauge and filled the legs with DEX 3 automatic trans fluid. I know that's not what it says to use, but I've been using it in all my hydraulic front ends for at least the last 25 years.  Take hold of the front fender at the tip and see if you can move it up and down.  Rivet failure seems to be a common problem with high milers. I solved my failure problem by replacing the rivets with button head stainless screws. I tapped the inside bracket 6x 1.25, threaded in the screws, put a drop of blue loc-tite on them, put matching nuts on the inside, more loc-tite, and then ground off the excess screw thread flush with the nut. Gotta watch the clearance from the base of the fastener to the tire sidewall.

[alamogeorge]

Hmm...that's a good point. I hadn't thought about the front forks. I've got a lot of rattling and a rough ride up there. I'll look into those springs. Do they replace the oil or is this in addition to the oil. Never messed with forks so I don't know exactly what goes in there.

I hadn't considered going to 4 on the damper. The air was about 10 when I first got the bike and the guy was probably about 150. I figured that I had better go up a bit. Have only taken it around the block but it felt a little better.

[Troll]

  According to the service manual, the correct air setting for bare bike with a 150 rider is atmospheric pressure. The manual goes on to say that the bike 's rear suspension should be completely extended. The air valves are then opened, and allowed to equalize. Hmmm, I did that (I'm about your size) and found that the pressure is about 10 psi loaded. The rear suspension is pretty compliant over bumps, and seems to be stable enough. The damping adjustment is a whole other ball game. It's for rebound, not compression damping. I have mine set to 4 to help keep the rear from excessive shaft jack under load, and minimize rear rise during hard stops. I put progressive suspension fork springs in this year, and I'm getting a good, solid front end load under braking, without the harsh and jarring ride it used to have.

[alamogeorge]

I understand that this is a question with many variables and preferences but I figure rather than hitting and missing I'd just ask and see if anyone close to my size can give me a good place to start.

I'm 240 lbs. I keep switching my damper setting back and forth between 2 and 3 and haven't decided where to leave it. Also I just aired both shocks to 30 psi (it was at about 10).

What have you found to be a good combo for a smooth gentle ride. The roads around here are pretty good. My street is a little bumpy but not teeth jarring bumpy. The rest of the roads are good for the most part.