Exhaust header flange nut (or bolt, or both)

[chuckc]

Just to update, I replaced the bad studs and put in a new gasket.   Then added even tension to both exhaust nuts, back and forth, to 14 ft/lbs.  That seems to have resolved my issue.   Deceleration popping is all but gone and I'm happy with the sound of the stock V&H baffles.

As a side note, I used high temp anti-seize when installing the exhaust stud.  I've read that thread-locker is not recommended for high temp applications.

Thanks for all the help guys.

-Chuckc

[bambam0099]

Just make sure you have no exhaust leak... but, when I added my pipes (coaster mod done as well).. I had decel popping ......

Same here.  When I added my duals, I ran the bike without baffles and had an excessive amount of decel popping and my plugs showed I was running hotter than I wanted.  I reinstalled the baffles and it cut out alot of the popping but, I will be installing the Cobra next season because I plan on opening up the airway (caddman mod) plus removing the baffles (love it louder).

[chuckc]

I do have an exhaust leak.  I may have cross-threaded one of the acorn nuts because when I tried to take it off, the stud came out too, and this was one of the two that did not come out when I took the stock exhaust off.

The stud and acorn nut are toast.  I ordered new studs, acorn nuts & gaskets from Kawasaki today and they should be in middle of next week.

Indo, your post about the wrong size stud has me a little concerned, I ordered part number 92004-1214, which has been superseded by 172BA0825.  I'm hoping these are correct or I'll be waiting another week to get what I need.

Chief, I have plugged the reed valve hole so it may or may not pop once the exhaust leak is fixed.  In any case, I may get the Cobra FI Tri-pot if the bike still seems to be running lean.

Thanks all for the input, I appreciate it.

-Chuckc

[indo]

I had a similar problem and ordered a stud from McMaster-Carr. I put high temp never-seize on the stud(s). Whilst working on the bike (yesterday) I noticed that I had not fully seated the flange so I tightened that up and installed a new exhaust gasket. I recently ordered a stud from Kawasaki and it was the wrong size! I just wanted to have one on hand in case...

[chief]

Just make sure you have no exhaust leak... but, when I added my pipes (coaster mod done as well).. I had decel popping which was only corrected by installing a Cobra FI box... didn't need any adjustments. They have a newer 3 pot box which allows for more adjustment.

http://www.cobrausa.com/kawasaki/vulcan_1500_drifter_99_05_1/motorcycle_fuel_management/

[chuckc]

Pipes are installed  .

I have to say that sliding one of the mufflers over the head pipe was a real PITA.  It was super tight.  I did get it to go in but not far enough to be mounted to the mounting bracket.  I even took the header pipe off the bike and the heat shield off so I could apply max effort without breaking something.  Even me and a friend pushing and turning could not get it to budge.  I took the two pieces apart and could see the front lip of the header pipe was digging into and creating a ridge on the inside of the muffler.  I ended up filing down the ridge inside muffler with a half-round file and then put a bevel on the front lip of the header pipe and that fixed it.  But what a pain.

So, pipes installed and I took it out for a ride this morning.  I love the sound.

However, I am getting quite a bit of deceleration popping.  I did use new crush gaskets.  I went to Home Depot and found a 1/2 inch plug and used it for the Marble trick but it made no difference.  Next, I'll try the smoke trick to see if I have a leak at the head/pipe junction.

I also took a shot of the spark plug (pic below) this morning to see if I could tell if the bike was running lean.  Input would be appreciated.

Finally, I was surprised by the gap between the head flange and the head (pic below).  I suppose this should be fine as it's still putting plenty of pressure on the gasket.

[drifter-paul]

When I went to dual exhausts at 80,000 Miles, i had to have longer studs(don't ask - it's a long story). I WD40'd the poop out of the original studs and backed them out  1/2 turn, squirt, wait, 1/2 turn, squirt, wait ad infinitum - some of them the nut wouldn't come off (as in your case) and the others I double-nutted to remove.

I gave the new studs just a smear of WD40 and put them in, on the theory that if the nut rusted to the stud then I could always remove it attached to the stud without risking snapping a rusted in stud  - this as opposed to loctiting them in.

Having paid $270 for two Rescue Bits delivered to AU, to remove a snapped bolt for the exhaust mount (lodged in the frame), I'm happy that I went that route with the studs.

Horses for courses. Your decision. 

[chuckc]

Good info all around, thanks guys.  I like the idea of taking the flange nut off and using two other nuts to reinstall the post.

-Chuckc

[Trall]

The muffler on my 02 Drifter 1500 is broken and rattles when I ride.  The dealer wanted $600+ for a new muffler, which was way too much.  I found some new V&H Longshots on clearance for $365 and I'm going to put those on.  To be honest, the broken muffler was a good excuse to get the new pipes 

While taking off the header flange nuts, I was surprised that, on both the front and rear headers, the rear most nut did not come off.   Instead, the entire nut/bolt assembly came out.  The front most nuts on each header did come off, leaving the threaded post extending out of the head.

Is this normal?

Thanks,
Chuckc

Great pipes.  Check out the cool VH hot tips as well.  I have not had that happen before but if it came all the way out your fine. Use some WD40 and get the nut off  and  add two extra nuts to the thread tip area and tighten the two nuts together and place the nuts in a vice to hold thread area and use a plumbers touch to heat the stuck nut to get it loose if WD40 does not work.  Then you can also use the two nut setup to tighten the threaded stud back down.  That or buy new threads studs and nuts at the hardware store maybe Partzilla if they sell them if those have any damage.

Great pipes. Since you bought new VH pipes for your 1500 buy new Kaw. exhaust gaskets.  I used some blue or red gasket maker and added a couple small daps then pressed the gasket in place so it stays and you don't have to keep playing with it and trying to install the pipes.  Also added a small washer or lock washer around 3 to 4 mm thick to the threads exhaust flange since my nuts were bottoming out when tightening.   That will cause a exhaust leak.  After staring my and idling, I had a few small backfires- but after adding the washers since my nuts bottomed out and added a marble to the hose under right side air cleaner cover for the Marble Mod, had no more backfires.  Mine is completely stock except for the VH pipes. Lay a large blanket down to protect your nice VH pipes as you work.

Another tip if you plan on now or down the road adding VH hot tips to your pipes.  You will see on the inside area that faces the rear fender on both pipes two VH holes.  The hole closest to the end of each pipe is for attaching VH hot tips exhaust tips.  Make sure the baffle is secure in the second hole next to the first outer hole and leave the butter hole empty for the hot tips option.   My pipes came with the baffle already attached to the first hole made for the hot tips.  I ordered my hot tips after I installed my pipes. I had to remove the screw for the baffle that was in the outer 1st hole and push the baffle back slightly to line up with the second hole on each pipe.  I did it but would of been much easier if done before pipes installed.  Just check when you get your pipes if baffle already in second hole then your done otherwise fix it.

Heres the link to marble mod and other good stuff from good folks here on the VDR-

Backfiring issues-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=38218.msg83254#msg83254

Marble Mod disable reed valves-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/smog-marbling.html

Air / Emissions Info-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?action=links;cat=62

[Troll]

The stud is not supposed to come out, but it happens. At least it didn't break off in the head...that happens, too.  BE VERY CAREFUL when you put it back so you don't cross thread it. Id it were me, I'd get the nut off the stud and put the stud back in with a little blue loc-tite. You can always replace the stud and nut...the nut is like $4, don't know how much the stud is, but it can't be much

[chuckc]

The muffler on my 02 Drifter 1500 is broken and rattles when I ride.  The dealer wanted $600+ for a new muffler, which was way too much.  I found some new V&H Longshots on clearance for $365 and I'm going to put those on.  To be honest, the broken muffler was a good excuse to get the new pipes 

While taking off the header flange nuts, I was surprised that, on both the front and rear headers, the rear most nut did not come off.   Instead, the entire nut/bolt assembly came out.  The front most nuts on each header did come off, leaving the threaded post extending out of the head.

Is this normal?

Thanks,
Chuckc