Drifter 1500 tugging???

[Drifter1500]

Read this....

http://www.gadgetjq.com/tps_adjust.htm

[Troll]

The "choke" is not a choke, but just a limited hand throttle. Has no effect on fuel nixture

[John Hopkins]

Nobody has mentioned this so I will..the 1500 has a choke knob, it is down on the left side and we never have to use it so that is probably why it was not mentioned, if you are new to the Drifter you may have thought the 800 t0 900 revs at idle is too slow and pulled out the choke knob..it could be as simple as pushing it back in.

John.

[Drifter1500]

Have you checked the TPS voltage?

[Troll]

there is one thing you didn't check. It's kind of a pain to go to, but there is a vacuum line attached to the fuel pressure regulator on the intake manifold. If the diaphragm in this regulator leaks fuel (it happens with cars all the time) the engine will suck fuel straight into the the intake manifold. You don't need the engine running to check, you need to remove the vacuum line from the regulator, and check to see if there is gas in the line or coming out of the connection. If you have a vacuum pump, you can then attach it to the regulator and pump it so see if it holds a reading.

[zlatko83]

Hello!
After a long time, nothing new
We was ckeck all senzor, all tubes, air chennel,...tester said OK.
But, problem is same. Black smoke from exthaus, sparkplugs (all four) was destroyed after  cca 1000km, engine tugging
I wsa try something, change between MAP and BARO sensor, engine work?? - I did not drive!

[testpilot]

inspect, clean and tighten battery connections, power connection to fuse panel and ground connection to engine.

[zlatko83]

I'm trying to put my issues together.
Zlatko, your not using oil by chance?

Sorry, I did not understand exactly, what did you mean? If my engine used oil? Answer: no

[Petemoss]

Why? oh well, OK...

I'm trying to put my issues together.
Zlatko, your not using oil by chance?

[Troll]

Why? oh well, OK...
There are a few things that strike me about this. First, you say the problem started last year. There are a few things that could cause this all of a sudden and does not provide any type of computer code. One of them is leaking diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator. This would cause the fuel to dump into the vacuum port on the throttle without any regulation. It may be a problem with the manifold pressure sensor. There is a vacuum hose connected to the throttle and if the hose is leaking (this is some pretty old rubber, after all), then the sensor will be asked to provide more fuel than usual. I will give this post via google translate and see if this will help with language barriers
I had to retype a few things cause the translator made it worse....

[Petemoss]

Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki me stavke o tem. Prvič, morate povedati problem začel lani. Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki bi lahko povzročila to povsem nenadoma in ne določa nobene vrste računalniške kode. Eden od njih je lahko slabo membrane v regulator tlaka goriva. To bi povzročilo goriva na smetišče v vakuumsko vrata na lopute brez kakršnekoli ureditve.Drugi pa je lahko problem z razdelilca senzor tlaka. Obstaja vakuumsko cev priključite na lopute in če da cev pušča (to je nekaj precej stara guma, navsezadnje), nato senzor bo računalnik vprašal, da zagotovi več goriva, kot ga ponavadi. Bom dal to objavo preko google translate, in videli, če bo to pomagalo pri jezikovnih ovir ...You are going to have to remove the fuel tank to check these things out. ANY fuel in the vacuum lines is a reason to look further. The MAP and BARO sensors are the same part, MAP sensor will have a vacuum hose on it, and the BARO sensor will not. Vacuum leaks here will cause a rich running condition without any codes.

Troll, can you repost this in English?

[zlatko83]

Thank you! Google translate is not exactly, but I undestand, thank you for your effort
I was controled also MAP and BARO connestors, contacts are clean, all rubber hoses look good...
May be, I must remove fuel tank again and check these things exactly.
There is no FI error, also self test run without errors.

[Troll]

Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki me stavke o tem. Prvič, morate povedati problem začel lani. Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki bi lahko povzročila to povsem nenadoma in ne določa nobene vrste računalniške kode. Eden od njih je lahko slabo membrane v regulator tlaka goriva. To bi povzročilo goriva na smetišče v vakuumsko vrata na lopute brez kakršnekoli ureditve.Drugi pa je lahko problem z razdelilca senzor tlaka. Obstaja vakuumsko cev priključite na lopute in če da cev pušča (to je nekaj precej stara guma, navsezadnje), nato senzor bo računalnik vprašal, da zagotovi več goriva, kot ga ponavadi. Bom dal to objavo preko google translate, in videli, če bo to pomagalo pri jezikovnih ovir ...You are going to have to remove the fuel tank to check these things out. ANY fuel in the vacuum lines is a reason to look further. The MAP and BARO sensors are the same part, MAP sensor will have a vacuum hose on it, and the BARO sensor will not. Vacuum leaks here will cause a rich running condition without any codes.

[zlatko83]

I test also without air filter. It is same. I was check air temparatur sensor, termostat, other sensor, everything look good. Definitively, it was wrong mixture (too much gas, a low air). When cold engine work and I add power, from exhaus come a little black smoke. The problem was not new. Something (bad mix) dastroy spark plugs. Last year with DPR7EA-9, the problem was started in october, this year with DPR6EA-9 in augist. I use 98-100 oct gasoline. With 95 in Slowenia, engine work unrested (we have bad gasloline). When I fill in Austria 95, engine work same as Slowenian 100
My friend said, may be exhaus. I have broken exthaus (connect between catalyst and back exhaus). He said, it is FI model, may be He drive VN 1500 with carburettor, engine work much better like my.

[drifter-paul]

What petrol are you running ? 94 RON is specified , 95 is fine (easy to get (in Australia),what I use) 98 is wasted money(no improvement in performance for extra cost), don't know about 91 RON (tends to be ethanol based, and I won't touch that shit  - the ethanol rather than the RON).
I use DPR6EA-9 for normal use, and DPR5EA-9 for cold weather. Normal is up to 40 C and down to 10 C, cold (for me) is below 10 Celsisus 

[greenbarn]

Yeah, that doesn't look like the spark plug's fault.  Something else is making it run too rich.  Not enough air - too much fuel.  Like Troll said- PC messing up??  Plugged air filter? (it would have to be pretty clogged..)

[Troll]

Looks like it's running pretty rich, or the spark is weak. What kind of fuel mileage are you getting? There are many reasons for it to run rich, but the most common seems to be a power commander set up wrong...

[zlatko83]

Problem was spark plugs. All four are black, bad spark, jump here and there. But spark plugs are 4 month old, cca 3000km, recomended model NKG DPR6EA 9.

I was test and built in NKG DPR7EA 9. I make test drive about 150km, engine work well, without problem. But, when I check spark plug after test drive, black again.

Possible problem with burning? I also check air filter. It was 3 years old, about 14000km, but look well?

[dakuhosu]

Sure strikes me as airflow. Silly question but hows the air cleaner look?

[Troll]

Fuel filter is inside the tank on R models...I'd look for white marks on the inside and the outside of the spark plug caps, which would indicate spark leakage to the cylinder head, or the base of the plug.

[DC]

Check the fuel line from the tank.  There may be something intermittently clogging it.

[zlatko83]

Thank you for suggestion.
The bike is year 2002 and 50.000km (about 31.000 miles).
The engine was not cold, I usually few minutes heat engine before drive.
I was chech spark plugs, it was right model and look good. I think, spark plug is not problem.
May be cable, spar plug cap??? It was factory install (11 years old).
Sutter is only under load (when I start to drive), when I rev it up (heating engine before drive), work well.
Dry or wt weather does not matter.

I must check fuel flow (vakum or fuel filter), it is possible problem. But, I must first find fuel filter
FI lamp does not lite.

I was forget to write, it was happened first time last year, at the end of bike seazon. After service this year, work a month well, than start problem again.

Thank you for now. If you have any suggest, you are welcome. I will try to resolve problem follow your instruction and report.

regards, Zlatko

[waltervl]

I think he means it stutters when the engine is cold, during the first miles/kilometres.

Does it stutter under load or also when you rev it up without driving?

Is it in dry or wet weather? Or doesnt it matter?
You could also check your fuel flow, or perhaps your tank is sucking itself vacuum. Open up the fuel cap.

Does your FI lamp lite up on the speedometer when you have the problems? You can check for ECU faults accodring following procedure: http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/ECUFaultCodes.html

[tmassey]

at the age of our bikes...look at the plug wires too...small cracks let moisture in....just my 2 cents.

terry

[John Hopkins]

Hello!

This summer I have problem with engine. I was made service (change oil filters, plugs,...). A month, it was work without problem.  Then start tugging. Usually, when bike stay a week, or more.
I start engine, heat the engine few minutes. It work normaly, with increase  hand throttle (like always). When I start to drive, the engine start to tugging (every few hunderd meters for secod or two, and then work normaly, and again)
It happen about 3-5 kilometers, than engine start to work normally.
It repeat about two month. Where is the problem?
Thank you and best regards from Slowenia

I may have misunderstood exactly what you are trying to explain, but I think you are saying that your bike cuts out for a second or two, then later it starts to run ok..

If that is correct the first thing to check is the spark plugs, take them out and look at them because you have just changed them..

Maybe you bought faulty plugs or the gaps have not been set correctly, maybe you over tightened them and cracked one, maybe the caps are loose, either on the plug or where they screw on to the HT lead, or maybe they are not fitted to the correct torque..10 ft lbs..

John.