Why do I suck with a carbed bike in the cold?

[jveley]

I had the same problem, and thought I'd try the $9 can of sea foam before I took her off for a rejetting.

Poured a little in, started, and let her run a bit while white smoke came out of the pipes.  Then a few backfires, but after she warmed up, I was able to push the choke in all the way and she revved just fine without stalling.

According to the bottle, this stuff is used not only as a cleaner but also as a stabilizer, and since it's petroleum based, can't hurt to keep some in the tank every so often.  I may end up looking into the rejetting later, but for now I'm thinking if I can start her up with no problems in 30 degree weather there's no reason to do so.

[topherloaf]

Sounds like a plan.  Thanks Troll.  (I've been trying to look for your name but I can't find it...sorry)  You've been a great help.  I always hear how a bunch of people still love/prefer their carbed bikes over EFI because it's easier to tinker with and get to run the way they want.  I was lucky to be given the bike and I can't really afford another one unless I were to sell this, but it'd be a crap shoot because there's no telling how much I'd get for it.    We've done a bunch to this bike and it'd also be a shame to get rid of it.  It's a double edged sword.

BTW, I'm not a horsepower for speed's sake kind of person, only if it means running better, carrying more load better etc...still, I wish scootworks had their belt drive thing figured out.  Bummer.

[Troll]

  Rejetting the carb to a more real world setting is exactly why they are so popular. It will give a great improvement in driveability and may even give you a small power boost, although that isn't why you should do it. To make the EPA happy, manufacturers have had to lean out the midrange fuel mixture to comply with emissions standards. V-2s have a problem with fuel distribution to begin with, and this just makes it worse. Harley went to fuel injection (as nearly everybody else has done) to lessen the problem. Carbed bikes, in general, since the late 90's have had this problem in varying degrees. Like I said in my original post, my w-650 ran terrible in the cold (below 60 deg. F) until I fixed it, and now it runs perfectly even in 30 deg  weather after it warms up. The kit had good instructions, and all you will need to do the job is a mall drill to get out the tamper proof plug over the idle mixture screw, and normal hand tools, like screw drivers and such. The main jet and needle are accessible with a phillips screwdriver, but you really need to read the instructions packaged with your kit.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2186.pdf   $65 bucks and it includes the drill bit to remove the plug.

[topherloaf]

The jet kit itself will adjust/fix the carb to a more friendly setting?

[Troll]

 Ok, then. Look up the Dyno jet kit, there are usually a few on ebay, and dive in. it's really not that hard to do. I am posting an exploded view of the carb, with the parts you will have to deal with hi lited. Having a factory service manual will help, but the dyno jet kit has instructions, too. Patience, and a little care, and you will not have any problems. Think of how much you will learn, and then there is the bonding thing....

[topherloaf]

The problem for me was that it was too loud.  I don't need it so loud that it's all I hear....the next day.    I guess I'm going to have to learn to tinker with the dadgum carb because I don't have money to pay to have it looked at.  Sucks to be me.

[Troll]

  So, was the problem with the loud or the quiet exhaust? Riding with the choke on is a dead give away of a lean condition. Unless you developed a vacuum leak, it's probably a combination of lean EPA jetting and cold air and/or low restriction exhaust.

[topherloaf]

I put those on a while back.  Only rode around with them out one day. 

[Troll]

  I just read your post about the exhaust on your 800. Try putting the "quiet" mufflers back on and see what happens. I'm willing to bet the open exhaust flow is over scavenging your fuel system, causing a lean condition especially when cold air (which has more oxygen in it) is entering to process, aggravating the lean condition. Just a side note: I am a retired ASE Master Tech, and my specialty was fuel systems and driveability issues, with both conventional and electronic systems, and even diesels.

[Troll]

 The carb on your bike is a simple unit. The jet kit comes with pretty extensive instructions. If you don't want to tackle it, surely you must know somebody who has some experience with carbs. I would hate to see somebody pay a shop to do this kind of work, but I suppose it would help stimulate the economy....... I've always felt that getting to know the internals of you bike was more of a bonding thing, than an actual bit of work. I was very well bonded with all my H-Ds as a result of being inside them, WAY TOO OFTEN. I told a friend of mine, the other day, that the biggest problem that I have with my 2 Kawasakis is that they don't need anything over the winter. He has a softail, and understood exactly what I was talking about. His bike is currently parked in his living room.

[topherloaf]

I really don't know how to do any carb work.

[Troll]

  In order to keep the EPA happy, carbed bikes are forced to have very lean midrange jetting. If it's 90 deg out, then you have little or no problem, but if it's cold, it could cause the problems you are describing. I bought a 2000 W-650 from Florida for my birthday in '09 and it ran terrible, exactly as you are describing, until I took the carbs apart, raised the needles about .050 inches, and drilled out the tamper proof caps, and adjusted the idle mixture to a state more like reality. When it's cold out here (30-35 deg) it runs bad for the first mile or so, but when it's warm here, it runs nearly perfect even cold. Adjusting the needles only fixed the lean midrange, didn't effect the fuel mileage. I'm getting 50+ on the highway, and it runs so much better, it's like a different bike.  The original owner only put 9000 miles on it in 9 years, I put 8000 on it since Feb. of '09 You might want to look into a jet kit, like from Dynojet. The kit for my W is around $80, but it has 2 carbs. If you decide to do this with the jetting, don't get carried away, since it's really easy to make it too rich and cause other problems. R.T.F.M.

[theylive]

Yes, just mix it in w/your fuel... It may help you it may not and you can buy it in the automotive section at Wal Mart or Ace hardware ect..

[topherloaf]

Just put it in the tank?  I put a fuel cleaner in a month ago when I changed the plugs. 

[theylive]

I had a similar problem. I would suggest you pick up a pint of "sea foam" and run several ounces through your fuel, that should cure any hesitation and cleans your carbs ... amazing product. Who cares who's way your in... you're a biker

[topherloaf]

I mean, I let it warm up, I revved it, I even rode it while the choke was out and it acted normal.  So when I pushed the choke in, it started stalling and acting like it wasn't warm yet.  Should I just ride around with the choke partly pulled out?  I'm so irritated at it because I was in people's way and it was embarrassing.  It looked like I didn't know how to ride a motorcycle.