Help: Drifter Bullet Connectors

[49Reo]

I agree in general with the relay notion but it's not really required for this application (I run the 25w OEM bulbs so they're barely drawing two amps each).  I've had the spots (which are on a switch) on the bike for more than 12 years now with no problems - until now and the problem I had (resolved for now) is related to the corrosion in the scotch lock connector not due to a lack of a relay.  If I was running 55w lamps, I'd be more inclined to use a relay.

I agree with the notion of only using crimped connectors, soldering, even properly done, can lead to a weak joint.  A soldered wire will break off a lot easier than a crimped one.  In any case, I have a heavy duty crimper with the correct dies - at least for the regular size pins - not sure if I have the right die or not for the smaller bullet connectors but probably do.

I could use regular size spade connectors but then I have to hack into the power wire which I don't want to do.

Crimp connectors are also prone to corrosion; unless you use the ones that have shrink tube on them. A properly soldered connection or splice, with sealing shrink tube, will last a lot longer than any standard crimp. IMHO.

[testpilot]

Go to a Ford dealer. They alll have wiring repair kits that contain about 150 different OEM connector pins. I think you'll find what you're looking for.

[Bucko]

You should only tap the existing lights to run a relay coil and power the new lights from the battery via a new wire and fuse through the relay contacts..Any bullet connectors will do the job because you are crimping on to the new wires..I suggest 15a connectors for the new light bar..

John.

I agree in general with the relay notion but it's not really required for this application (I run the 25w OEM bulbs so they're barely drawing two amps each).  I've had the spots (which are on a switch) on the bike for more than 12 years now with no problems - until now and the problem I had (resolved for now) is related to the corrosion in the scotch lock connector not due to a lack of a relay.  If I was running 55w lamps, I'd be more inclined to use a relay.

I agree with the notion of only using crimped connectors, soldering, even properly done, can lead to a weak joint.  A soldered wire will break off a lot easier than a crimped one.  In any case, I have a heavy duty crimper with the correct dies - at least for the regular size pins - not sure if I have the right die or not for the smaller bullet connectors but probably do.

I could use regular size spade connectors but then I have to hack into the power wire which I don't want to do. 

[greenbarn]

I agree with most of what has been suggested here.  I repair cars/trucks/trailers, so I have done my share of wiring and wire repair.  I too have no use for the blue scotch-lock connectors, for the reasons stated here.  However, 3M has another product also called scotchloc. They have gel in them, and work pretty good, and they're weather-proof.  Problem is they are rather expensive.

Soldering is great, but my preference is crimp-on heat shrink connectors.  I don't have anything against soldering connectors, but it takes a lot more time, and you have to have the soldering tools to do it, and of course it has to be done right.  IMO, crimp connectors, when done PROPERLY, are as good as soldering.  I know others may disagree, but we (at my shop) have done a bit of wiring, and we've SEEN a lot of stuff, and we don't have any trouble with shrink-crimp stuff.  Most OEM wiring is crimped from the factory.

I'm talking about the heat-shrink variety.  You can't solder a heat-shrink connector, b/c the coating would melt.  The heat-shrink makes the connection water-proof.  This is what we use for the majority of our wiring repairs in the shop. You want to buy good quality connectors and use a good crimp plier (the cheap ones are junk).

I also agree the spade connectors are easier to use, and to find, so that's what I'd use.

[49Reo]

I avoid those blue scotch lock connectors like the plague...they cause corrosion in the wires, as they don't seal. whatever connectors you use, you should pull back the insulating portion, and solder your wire in the connector, then slide the insulator back on. Way less chance of corrosion. 

And like John says: always tap the existing lights to a relay and run battery power to the new lights. You can run the tap through a switch so you can run without the accessory lights on if you want as well. 

[DC]

I also just added a light bar and had to pull those connectors in the light bucket.  You need teeny weeny hands and fingers to play with those connectors.  Personally, I would switch to the weatherproof flat-blade connectors, if given the opportunity.  They're easier to grip, if you need to pull them apart.

[John Hopkins]

You should only tap the existing lights to run a relay coil and power the new lights from the battery via a new wire and fuse through the relay contacts..Any bullet connectors will do the job because you are crimping on to the new wires..I suggest 15a connectors for the new light bar..

John.

[Bucko]

The light-bar wiring on my 01 Drifter  has gone a bit funky (intermittent).   I'm tapping power off the running lights in the headlamp bucket useing one of the lame blue 'side tap' things.  I'd like to replace the side tap with a split pigtail with OEM bullet connectors.  The bullet connectors are not a standard size - they're quite small!  Does anyone happen to know where replacement connectors are available?  Eastern Beaver has 2.5mm bullets (listed as  Kawasaki) but I'm not sure if that's the ones used on the Drifters or not.  Thanks for any advice.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Bullet_Connectors/bullet_connectors.html