fork rebuild

[Troll]

I took the tubes off, placed them up side down (with the plugs/springs removed) in a big coffee can and left them over night. I poured a few oz of clean oil in them, worked them up and down a few times, and dumped it out. The oil in my forks wasn't as bad as I had expected, but it was not pristine, either. I left them up side down for a couple of hours again, and then started to fill them and put the springs back. I was surprised how easily they came out of the triple clamp...I'm used to having to "persuade" them out of an H-D.....There are collars attached to the upper tube with allen bolts that 1, locate the fork height, and 2, hold the lower fork tins in place...probably not a good idea to mess with them.

[greenbarn]

Soooo  the more I think about this, the more questions I get in my pointy little head....   What's the best way to get out all the crud/sludge?  I'm assuming it won't be nice and clean in there.  I'm reluctant to use solvent, but how about K1, or just clean oil to work the tube up and down and dump it out, and repeat a few times???

[chief]

Rebuilding them they should come off... when I changed out the springs I didn't remove them.

[greenbarn]

So sounds like the forks need to come completely off the bike.  I was hoping it could be done on the bike, making it simpler.     I do have a manual, but have't gotten so far as to look it all up yet.  Sounds like a good time.

Thanks for the info, much appreciatedd.

[chief]

What troll said... "compressed" is the "tube pressed down" part.

[Troll]

The measurement is taken from the top of the inner fork tube to the oil. The springs must be removed to allow for the calibrated "dip stick" to be used. The straighter the fork is, up and down, the more accurate the measurement. I put my tubes on the floor with the top leaning slightly against my work bench, the tube pressed down as far as possible into the lower leg. I used a turkey baster to add oil, a little at a time, until I reached the level I wanted. I used Dex 3 atf because I have forever on all my bikes. My Guzzi specified it, my H-Ds worked fine with it, and two Kaws seem to work well with it...it's a straight 7w oil with high detergent and a seal preserver. The viscosity of atf has to be thermally stable.....regular oils thin out with heat...

[greenbarn]

Tech info from Progressive:  (this might be good to know for future reference)

11-1126 vs. 11-1145

11-1126 is specified for the 800 vulcan and 800 vulcan classic (They do not list an 800 Drifter)
11-1145 is specified for the 1500 drifter

Both springs are 18" x 1.35" springs
1126 is a 35/50 rate, whereas the 1145 is a 40/65 rate.  The rate is the weight required to compress the spring the first inch and the last inch.  So the 35/50 spring requires 35# to compress the first inch, and the last inch required 50# additional to compress.  Makes sense the heavier bike would need a heavier rate spring.

So since one of my big issues with the stock setup is that it tends to travel so much it hits my fork bag on the fender, maye I SHOULD go with the heaver springs.

[greenbarn]

THanks for the info Chief.  One question, though, how do you fully compress the shocks with no springs in them, and how would you check the level with them compressed??   I would think the spec would be fully "un-compressed", i.e. unloaded with no springs.  The oil is measured from the top of the spring tube, right?  (I haven't done this yet, so going on what I understand from what I've read)

[chief]

1) Historically, Drifters have used 11-1145 for both 800 and 1500. Spacers are in the kit...
2) Progressives are very good, that's what I have always used so can't give you much advise on others.
3) The manual calls for SAE 10W oil
4)

AMOUNT: After disassembly and completely dry 320+-4ml ; changing the oil - ~270ml:

LEVEL: fully compressed without spring) - 280+- 2mm

Spend the money to get a manual. It is really helpful. I use the Kaw manuals and a Clymer manual.

[greenbarn]

Planning a progressive spring install and of course new oil.  I need to get my springs ordered ASAP!!  It's supposed to be darn near 60 Sunday, and my bike is still tore down in the shop undergoing the winter work.

Questions:

1- Just wanted to verify I'm correct in thinking the 11-1126 kit, (listed to fit the 800 Vulcan and Classic), is the right kit for the Drifter?  Nothing else required, everything in the kit?

2- There aren't better options out there than the Progressive, are there?  Don't want to hastily overlook something.

3 - What's the best fluid?  Troll, I noticed you mentioned Dex III ATF in a post a couple years ago.  You still recommend same?  Would a universal synthetic ATF be any better?

4 - Does everyone agree with the fluid levels recommended in the Progressive instructions (I'm assuming they will have a fluid level spec), or is the prevailing wisdom to go + or - of the recommendation?