no power or lights at all all of a sudden

[lumper]

Ok, thanks again.'
I found time tonight when I got home to pop off the cap on that star head screw and it came right out and now the new ignition is in place.
If I had the extra 50$ when I was doing this I would have gone with a relocation kit, but at the time I wasnt thinking, I wasnt even sure if the ignition was the culprit .

Anyway everything works great again.
Thanks a lot Troll, having you here with all your info and ability to look up a part and display it is invaluable to me, I cant thank you enough.

Matt

[lumper]

I see it now, lol thats great man, thanks Troll.
I painted over mine so it is a little extra stuck on there but I see now what I have to do.

Anyway the ignition was the ticket, then I needed a battery too, so now I am all good and back on the road, zip tie style, lol tomorrow I will pop off that cover and swap out the part properly.
Thanks again.
Matt

[Troll]

The bolt holds the chock bracket and the ign. switch under the left front of the tank...Looks like there is an allen hole chrome plug in the bolt, like the ones in the frame rail bolts

[lumper]

on the inside?
The outside is flush and smooth, no allen head or other.
Do you mean come at it from the other side with an allen wrench?

Thanks
Matt

[Troll]

Mine is secured with a chrome allen head bolt...5.5 mm I would think.

[lumper]

UPDATE:
So I got a new switch, I put it on, I am charging my battery full before I go out and try it though.

So I wanted to ask you, how do I get the old switch off?

I see what looks almost like a rivet, does that pop off or out or something?

There is no head or threads on the outside part where it would be nice and easy to get at itl lol,

The back side looks like a screw that is in but the tip not the head and I dont know if I am supposed to tap it out or what.

I know it is one of those simple things but I cant see how to get it off, so any tips or help with this would be great.
I really hope it was the switch I havent ridden since May when this thing died.
I am just waiting for my battery charger to show me a green light and I am going to put it back together and cross my fingers

Matt

[lumper]

So you think ignition switch?

That plug for it is in a real tough spot up under the left side of the tank, that's gonna be fun.

Also, mine is mounted on a bracket with the choke, the switch itself looks like a rivet holds it on, it has no head to grab it like a screw or a nut, is yours like this?

I will grab an ignition this week and try it.
That would be a nice simple straight forward fix.

I was thinking if it was a fuse then I would be left with having to find what shorted it before I could replace it, so a bad switch to me is favorable given the choices.
Thanks again for all your time Troll, I will let you know how it goes when I get the switch.
Lump

[Troll]

all the wires from and to the ign switch should be hot with the key on 2 of the wires run the tail lights and front markers, one runs the ECU and the other one runs everything else...still looks like a bad switch

[lumper]

Sorry to update so much before your reply.

I just wanted to add, I went out just now and checked the main fuse and it is good.
I followed the ground off the battery and it is good.
I checked all fuses and connections and all seem good.
I get a light on my tester on the white and brown wires from the ignition while the key is on.
I still however have no power anywhere on the bike,, no lights, no fuel or starter sounds, nothing.

What should I look at next?

Thanks again for all your advice and help.

I dont know what I would do without it.

Lumper

[lumper]

Ok, Update:

So I went back, put the key in and turned it on then tested the white wire from the ignition switch, it lit up and stayed lit.
I tested the brown wire it also lit, but the grey and red and other one did not light.

I pulled the coolant res off and regular fuse panel to get to the relays or switches or whatever they are in the battery compartment thinking the main fuse might be in that area.

I didnt find the main fuse though.
I see it now in my book though so I am going back out to check it.
It is in the starter relay, so fingers crossed it is bad that would be good right?

I did check all those the day the bike died and all were good.
I guess I need to locate the main fuse and check it?

Anyway Troll, I do have continuity with the white wire, what should I check for now?

Thanks again,

Lump

[lumper]

Ok, so I found the white wire, I clamped the clip to the negative terminal of the battery while it was connected and I used the probe of the tester to penetrate the white wire insulation.
I got a light for one second that then dimmed and died.
After that i got nothing.

I didnt have the key in when I tested, should I have had the key in?

Now that there is no light does that indicate the ignition is bad?
I am going to do it again with he key in.

I did put in the newly charged battery and tried the key but I got the same results, no lights or power at all.
Then I started to test the ignition.

Anyway I just want sure about the reading I got, is it normal to have it light briefly then go off and not come back?

I thought maybe trapped energy from all the attempts to start it before or something might have given me the light at first maybe.

Ok, I am going back to the bike now.

I am going to do the same test with the key in and in the on position.
If I do not get anything on the white wire I am going to check the main fuse by the battery, one of those big square things right? not the fuses in the pull fuse box.
If the fuse is good and I still get no power in the white wire, will that indicate the ignition is bad or the continuity from the battery to the switch is bad?

I am going to try and locate the main ground too and just check to make sure it is connected.

Thanks again for your help answering my questions.
I really appreciate it.

Lump

[lumper]

Ok, thanks for clearing that up.
Fuses are all good, I checked them first.
I am going to go probe in a few minutes, today is the first day I have had time to mess with it.

Talk to you later
Lump

[Troll]

You have to have the battery connected... the alligator clip goes on the NEGATIVE side of the battery, or any unpainted metal. Take the bolt out that holds the ign switch to the bike, and gently pull it out until you can find the 5 wire connector. Check for power on the white wire, and then, if you have power, go further by turning on the switch and probing wires CAREFULLY! If the white wire is dead, then go to the main fuse by the battery in the white holder....

[lumper]

I hope it is the ignition.
So not having ever tested anything before.
I know the pointed end of the tester goes into the wire through the insulation to touch the wire, where does the other end go? to the battery positive cable? with no battery in, just the cable?
I am just not sure.
Where does the ignition wires go first? should I try to make a contact there to test it ?
Sorry for all the questions, I get how to do it, just not sure where to clamp on to test though.

Thanks

Lump

[Troll]

I just looked in my service manual under engine removal and it shows a picture of the ground cable and attaching bolt...I'LL BE DAMNED IF i CAN FIGURE OUT WHERE IT IS BASED ON THAT PICTURE, BUT IT APPEARS, UNDER GENERAL INFORMATION, TO BE LOCATED IN THE BACK OF THE ENGINE NEAR THE OIL FILTER.  Damn caps lock... I'm not retyping that...My TourGlide had a braided cable connected to one of the trans to primary mount bolts, down under the trans. If that was disconnected, nothing would work ( I know this from experience).....Good luck, but I'll bet it's a 13 year old ign. switch

[lumper]

Troll,
Where am I looking for the grounding bolt and cable?
I dont see anything in the diagrams I have.
Will it come off the starter and ground to the frame or something?
I am going to buy a 12v tester tomorrow and I charged the battery so I am going to put it in and see whats up with it tomorrow after work.
Thanks for any info
Lumper

[lumper]

Thanks Troll,
I was going to start with my battery and then move to the ignition, where it all starts.
I will have to get a tester this week, so it will have to wait until Thursday, but I will get one then and start diagnosing.
As much as it sucks, I dont feel to bad, I know electrical especially all of a sudden electrical issues are usually simple enough, as long as they arent to hard to identify.

I will let you know once I get a tester
Thanks again,

Lump

[Troll]

     I was going to suggest you break out your 12v test light and check the wires going into the switch. There are 5...one is hot off the battery (w) ,  one goes to the ECU to provide the power for the injection system  (br), another Ign ckt, (gy), 2 lighting ckts...(bl and r). Do not disconnect the 5 wire connector, but rather check the white wire first by sticking the test probe into the insulation just enough to touch the wire inside. If you have a light, then turn on the switch and see if any of the other wires are hot in the same way... if you do not, then you must determine why the battery power isn't getting where it should be. If the switch checks out, then look for the grounding bolt and cable for the engine...This is a 13 year old machine, and things happen.  Electricity isn't black magic, so don't let it intimidate you.

[asklapios]

i have sam problem like yours...
all energy goes off and no light no sound and bike cant runing engine running anything...
i spent a lot of time for problem and i can find source of problem...the ignatin key switch's inside parts and connections are broken...
would you check out this part(ignation key switch and cables?

[lumper]

Hi all,
IT has been a while.
Well I was out on my 99 Drifter 1500 yesterday and things were going well, I stopped for a minute at a park and when I got back to the bike I put in the key and started to start the bike when I heard a sizzle like a short and then that was it.

No power or lights anywhere.
Cant hear the starter motor or the fuel system, etc... nothing at all.
IT is like I took the battery out.
I am taking the battery out this afternoon and checking it but I am 99% sure it is not the battery.

I checked all my fuses and connections without pulling the tank and everything seems to look ok, no burning or newly damaged or broken wires or anything.

The thing that bugs me is there was no warning or anything indicating a problem might be brewing.

Anyway As I said I am checking the battery first but I am almost positive it is fine, so what should I check next?

Again there is no power at all when I turn the key, no lights, or sounds or anything at all and all of a sudden.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any help with this.
I am hoping it is a simple fix as always but I am up for anything.
I am looking in my repair book at working diagrams but lol I Am no electrician so it isnt helping me much.

'Thanks

Lump