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Transmission final assembly

Das Boot

The order of the final assembly of the tranny was learned by trial and error. Neither of the books covered it. I'd put stuff into the case, and discover that I had to take it apart again to get the next part in place. I put the tranny assemblies and forks together and took them apart again so many times I started giving the more troublesome parts nicknames. I won't post them here, in respect to any younger family members who might be reading.

Here's how it finally went together.

1. I assembled the output shaft with the bottom shift fork in place, and installed it into the left side of the case.

Das Boot

2. Next I put the input shaft, with the one smaller fork that controls it in place. To get it in place, I had to sort of angle it into its hole, (being careful of the pin bearings), and lift up on the largest gear on the output shaft to make room for it to slide into place. Some gentle jiggling, loud cursing and quiet pleading were also involved. I'm sure they helped.

The shift fork rod was temporarily put in place to confirm the positions of all the peices, then removed so that I could install the last fork.

Here is a view from another angle, showing the same level of completion. (The output shaft is the one closest to us in this photo.)

Click to see the full image...
Das Boot

3. The top two gears had to be removed from the output shaft to get the final shift fork in place. It was fairly simple. Anticlimactic after what I'd just been through.



4. The shift fork rod was re-installed. It was easy. I made sure that the shift drum was oriented with the tips of the shift forks in their proper slots, and I had previously set the drum so that it was in neutral position. You can see the neutral position on the other side of the case, as an elevated notch in the shift drum cam that is connected to the bottom of the shift drum assembly. When the assembly is turned so that the pawl, (a spring loaded arm with a wheel on it that engages the notches on the cam), is engaged in the elevated neutral notch, the drum is in neutral position. I had to lift some of the gears and gently move the forks into the proper position. I DID NOT try lifting the gears with the forks. That might bend them.

5. The still-assembled crank and pistons were put into the case next. If you try this, make sure you don't put the crank in until AFTER the transmission final assembly is complete. Trust me, pulling the counterbalanced crank out and putting it back in again is a pain. It's HEAVY.

Note the presence of the loose oil filter stub to the right of the crank counterbalance and oil pump shaft, (right side of the case in this shot). It is VERY IMPORTANT to remember to put that bad boy in there BEFORE putting the case halves together. (No, I did NOT make this mistake.)

I also made certain there was no dirt or other contamination anywhere inside the case half, and thoroughly cleaned its mating surface, (yes it's going to "mate"). I also cleaned the matching surface of the right case, removing all traces of previous liquid gasket, then going over it a few times with a brake solvent soaked rag, removing all traces of oil.

6. I turned the blade of the oil pump gear so that it was flat to the bottom of the case. (The gear and blade can be seen, in the above photo, below and to the right of the big blue steel crank counterbalancer. It is attached to the chain that is connected to the oil pump shaft that is almost level with the crank.) I then turned the water pump shaft, (mounted to the right crankcase half), that engages that blade so that its notch was also flat to the bottom of the case. This way, when the case was re-assembled, the blade, and the notch would fit together perfectly. It worked like a charm.
Das Boot

7. I had already cleaned out the right half of the case, and laid it open side down for several hours, in an attempt to get all the oil left inside to drip out BEFORE turning it over and cleaning its mating surface.

8. The glue: I ordered the black oem goop that they use in the factory for the liquid gasket. It was EXPENSIVE; thirty five bucks for a too large tube of the stuff. The Haynes manual mentioned the use of a silicone style liquid gasket, and if I had to do it over, I'd use that. It's about five dollars, and the viscosity MUST be better than that factory stuff.

When I went to apply the goop, it was thin and funky. It seemed like there was not enough body in it to form a good seal, and you couldn't pile it on, because it was too liquid, and I knew it would squeeze out into the interior of the engine when the case was assembled. I'm usually the guy who puts too much of this kind of stuff on, but it was hard to overdo it this time. I just crossed my fingers and hoped that there was enough on there to properly seal the case.

The manual said to apply the glue, wait a few minutes, THEN re-assemble the two halves of the case. It also warned me not to fill up any of the voids, particularly around the oil filter stub, and another oil passage to the rear at the top of the engine. I was careful to only apply the goop to the mating surfaces.

9. Alignment of the two halves was fairly easy. I had pre-fitted it earlier, and it went so smoothly and fit so well that I had to use a screwdriver at the pry points on either end of the case to get it back apart again. When the gasket goop had been applied, and the proper amount of time had passed, I assembled the case again, and again, it went perfectly.

Das Boot

10. While I had the case together for the pre-fitting, I got out all the 6mm and 10mm bolts, and figured out the locations of each. The photo to the left shows the bolts separated into piles for the right and left sides. The right side of the case used the four bolts on the right, and the left side of the case used the other eleven bolts seen on the right side of the box.

After the case was assembled, I tipped it up and installed the four 6mm bolts that go into the right side of the case, and torqued them to 95 inch pounds. Then I turned it aroud and installed the eleven bolts that go ingo the left side. I torqued the 10mm bolts to 29 foot pounds, in the torque order: center, left, right, then I torqued down the 6mm bolts to 95 inch pounds in no particular order.

A small amount of liquid gasket pushed out from the edges where the two case halves met, so perhaps it will hold oil. Only time, and more work will tell.

Click to see the full image...

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