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The left half of the crankcase is the one where all the assembly of the internal parts is done. The Tranny, the Crank and the Oil Pump all go in this side.

I left the oil pump alone. I didn't trust myself not to screw it up, should have gone in and done it anyway, but hind sight is 20/20. Oh well. My advice to others: Trust yourself.

The old shift drum assembly was still in place, showing that during disassembly it is the last thing they came to.

The shift drum assembly is held onto the crankcase by two 6mm bolts and a plate. Removal is simple. Just unscrew the bolts and pull out the assembly.

The new assembly fits snugly into the hole, and after determining that it is properly seated you're ready to re-install the plate and bolts.

The bolts don't have a torque setting that I could find, but they do require a non-permanent threadlocking compound. Unfortunately, after applying the threadlock liquid, there's no way to get the bolts back into their holes, with the plate in place under them, without getting the compound all over the place.

I solved the problem by laying the case down, positioning the plate precisely over the holes, then using some dental wax, (the stuff that people with braces on their teeth use to prevent mouth sores), as a temporary adhesive to stick the bolts into the extended socket wrench. I was careful to make certain none of the wax remained on the bolt heads, or had dropped off the socket and into the case.


The two worst gears in the transmission were 2nd and 5th, on the output assembly. The Dogs of the 5th gear were severely worn, as were the edges of the receiver indentations on the 2nd gear. This photo shows the thrashed ones, and the new-undamaged ones below.

Both the shift forks for the output assembly showed improper contact wear, and the bottom one, (the one that engages 5th), had such heavy contact, that 1/6" or so had been ground off where it rubbed the gear, and it had discolored from excessive friction heat. I'll post a photo of that fork here soon.

Note: I was concerned about the amount of metal that must have circulated with the oil, and wondered if there was any of it left in the case. There was. I found a small pile of it in the bottom of the right case, and down in the oil sump.

Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild

The output assembly was the first to be assembled. The parts were all cleaned with brake cleaning fluid from an aerosol can, then blown dry. Outside, and away from ignition source. Then they were bathed in 30 weight motor oil. Assembly is easy, but repetitive. Oil holes have to line up, thrust washers and circlips must be assembled in order, and there is one gear that holds three positive neutral finder bearings. It is these bearings' job to attempt escape at every opportunity.

To get that gear onto the shaft, I just put the bearings into their holes, with the gear flat on the workbench, then kept it level as I installed it onto the shaft, ...then took it apart again because I forgot the circlip and washer that needed to go on first. The whole rest of the operation pretty much went like that. I can't remember how many times I assembled and disassembled those shafts, but it was alot. -Too many.

Oil squirts out of holes in these tranny shafts, and there are holes in some of the gears that have to line up. If you ever try this, be aware of where the lubrication is coming from for every part and assembly.

Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild

I assembled the tranny shafts in an aluminum broiler pan to keep them clean, and to make oiling them up easier. I also used a broiler pan, (a different one), for the cleaning process.

Here is the assembled output shaft.

The photo below is of the Input shaft pieces, laid out, ready to be put together.

Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild

The input shaft is simpler than the output, but the circlip was a bear to install. It kept twisting every time I got it open enough to slide onto the shaft. In the end I had to have a helper hold the shaft, while I spread the circlip with the pliers, and held the other side of it with a pair of vicegrips to fight the twist.
Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild
The assemblies should fit together perfectly, even outside the case. Note the shift fork locations
Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild
Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild
Drifter 800 Engine Rebuiild



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