The steering on your motorcycle is very dependent on a single set of
bearings inside the frame stem.If those bearings are adjusted too
tight they can wear prematurely and your steering can be stiffer than it
should be.Too loose is worse.In an extreme case you might
feel a 'clunk' in the steering when you hit a bump which is punishing the
bearings as much as it's punishing you.With these
bearings, as with the fabled three bears there is a 'just right'
adjustment that lets your steering and suspension do their job smoothly
and easily.Adjusting the torque on the steering nut is
pretty straight forward except you are supposed to use a special socket
or wrench similar to the one shown to actually turn the nut.
 |
 |
You have options here.You
can purchase the special tool shown above for around $40,you can do as so many
do (but not recommended), use the edge
of a screwdriver to tap the edge of the serrated nut until it submits to
your will or you can make your own tool using a 36 mm socketfrom Sears,
about $8. Better?Ok, here's how you make it.(with
special thanks to Hans (Ghost) von
Sallwurk for the photos)
With the stem
nut as a guide mark tabs on the edge of the socket then use a Dremel tool
and/or grinder to cut away material from the socket so you're left with
four tabs that fit into the slots in the nut.
Don't put the Dremel away just yet.You'll need a grinding
attachment to remove some metal from the inside of the socket (see photo
lower left) to clear the steering stem shaft.This is one
of those 'trial and error' things so grind a little, see if there's
interference and if so grind a little more until each of the four 'posts'
is fitting snugly into the nut slots.
This is actually the most
accurate way to adjust the nut because you can get a direct and accurate
torque reading (33 ft lbs).Using the special (hook type) tool
you need a scale to pull on the arm and banging away with the edge of a
screwdriver...well, all bets are off there.
Here's yet another idea from Michel Massé. Michel drilled two holes in the ears of a 12" adjustable wrench (see figure at left) and added two M4 bolts. The nice thing about this tool is it is adjustable for any other application. It makes removing and installing the steering flanged nut a breeze. To torque to 14 ft-lb, Michel uses a fish scale and pulls 15.6 lbs (12 /“perpendicular length from steering shaft center to wrench eye center in inches x 14).
|
 |
Assuming you have your tool of choice at hand here's How To Do It
- Remove the windshield and any aftermarket parts that might get in your way.
- Place blankets over the tank, light bucketand front fender.
- Remove the top (chrome) steering stem nut (36 mm) along with the
washer and plastic spacer you'll find between the tree and steering
stem. Also remove the pinch bolts on each side of the top triple
tree. Pop the fork stem top caps out with a fingernail or very thin
screwdriver.
- If you have risers your cables and hoses may be kind of tight for
this step so at your option either leave the handlebars and risers
attached to the top tree or remove them.The triple tree is
loose and ready to come off with a little persuasion. Use a
soft mallet or hammer and a piece of soft wood a strike the top tree on
the bottom of the outboard edges until you can just lift the tree
assembly off (along with your bars and risers if still attached).
Once off place the assembly upside down on the headlight bucket and let it
dangle.
- Now you can see the exposed the claw washer and steering stem nut
(note the similar terminology to the shiny stem head nut).Take the
claw washer off and tighten the nut using whatever method you have
the tools for.
NOTE: if it's been two years or longer since the steering head bearings were lubed you may as well do it now. You'll need a helper (especially if the front tire is still attached to the forks).
- Remove the stem nut and carefully slide the fork assembly downward away
from the bike.The lower ball bearing will probably come with
it the top will stay inside the stem on the bike.
- Clean
and lube the bearings thoroughly with name brand high quality Moly
grease.
- Check the bearings for wear and inspect the races (inside
the frame stem) for any signs of pitting or wear. If
there is 'any' wear at all replace the bearings and races as a set.
You can not just toss a new set of rollers in and expect them to
work with the old races.Old races can be tapped out of the
frame using a drift, new ones can be tapped into place using a socket the
exact size of the race.
-
Assembly is the reverse with the following notes: don't forget to put
the claw washer back on, be very careful of the wires and hydraulic
lines as you slide the handlebar/tree assembly back on. You will need
to move them out of the way at least once while you aresliding the
assembly back on or you will pinch them. Use a soft mallet to
seat the assembly...use some finesse here. If you notice that
the fork caps are not flush but above 1/8" or more above
the tree look around for parts you may have forgotten to re-install like
the claw washer.
-
Once re-assembled if the bike won't start, check the interlock switch
under the clutch hydraulic reservoirthat came off when you were
moving everything around. Even if it appears to be plugged in, pull
it off and put it back on again.
Tightening specs: - Verify torque setting they may differ from these for different models.
Steering Stem Nut: |
Steering Stem Head Nut |
Pinch Bolts |
14 ft/lbs with Socket for the VN1500, 43 in/lbs for the VN1600 |
40 ft/lbs |
25 ft/lbs |
49 lb Pull with Kaw tool (1500 Only) | | |
'No slam' with hammer/screwdriver method | | |
| | |
|