- Randallks (Dephi Drifter Riders Forum)
Okay here's a fairly easy, reasonably inexpensive mod that adds a bit of nostalgic look to your shift pedals. The instructions below look like a novel, but the entire process is probably easier to actually do than to type out. Please note that this may only work for 99 and 2000 models due to a difference in the rear shift lever. Also, if you wear a size 12 shoe, you may want to pass on this mod. There is also a reasonable good chance to make a mistake, and the process is unforgiving - so take your time.
First - get yourself a set of these:
Click on the graphic to go to the website for these.
There are a few different types, some more expensive then others. Personally, the $90 repro set is a bit pricey and not much better than the other sets that are half the cost.
If you're super stylish you can order the white ones to match your white seat.
Enjoy cleaning them every 10 minutes.
Remove your left floorboard, which is just a single retaining spring, two C snap clips and the floorboard pins.
Remove your front and rear shift levers. These have a single bolt each. Note - you may want to mark the "clock setting" position of how each arm is mounted, although it's really easy to line them up on reinstallation. The rear one conveniently has an OEM hash mark (thank you Kawi engineers).
Remove the rear rubber pad and the front rubber pad from each shift lever. The front one was a ball buster (even using two thin flat blade screwdrivers). If you're the brave type, cut the damn thing off and save yourself the effort and quite a few explicatives. If you decide to abort the whole process you can replace it for $2. It's probably the cheapest OEM component you'll ever buy.
The rear pad is a slip-on for 99 and 2000 models. For 2001 and later models, the pad is attached with a bolt.
Pop the rear arm in a vice and drill a 3/8" hole centered on the plate and very, very close to the front edge. Take your time here and maybe drill a 1/8" guide hole first. Did I mention that it must be close to the edge? Otherwise you will not have enough clearance for the nut that goes on the underside of the plate. I think I had about 1/16" left between the edge of the plate and the hole. There is no concern for structural integrity here as there is plenty of plate to receive and distribute the force of your heel during shift application.
Now the problem with the 2001 and later models is here, as there already is a hole in that plate fairly close to the area in which you will be drilling. The existing hole cannot be used due to it's position and drilling a second hole may be a structural concern. You will have to make that judgment. The plate may also require a tiny bit of grinding along the outer rear edge so a square corner isn't sticking out past the oval shape of the pad. You'll need to check that when you do the initial test fitting.
Next, apply a generous amount of silicone or your favorite all-purpose adhesive to the top of the plate. For additional strength to the bolt you have a few options. Mix up some JB Weld and apply it to the threads so that it contacts the plate. If you're good with a welder you can also sting that bolt a couple of times on the underside of the plate. Now drop your nice new H-D half oval pad on the plate. Secure the nut to the bolt (use some thread lock). Set aside for 24 hours to cure. The pic below shows the underside mounted.
Next, the front lever. You're going to drill a 3/8" hole straight through the metal shift peg. You're only going to get one chance to do this - so again, take your time and line up the H-D oval pad before drilling. The hole is NOT centered along the length of the peg - it's about 1/4" left to center in order to accommodate the width of the oval pad. You can eyeball this. The angle of the pad should be either "in line" with or slightly lower than the angle of the lever arm. Next, drill a 1/8" guide hole STRAIGHT through the peg. Use a good drill bit cause that metal is hard and watch that you aren't drilling sideways. Did I mention that you need to drill STRAIGHT? This is imperative to the pad seating properly on the peg. Widen the hole by following up with a 3/8" bit. If you manage to make it through this part of the process without screwing it up and throwing the lever across the room, congratulate yourself with a beer or something. If it gets screwed up - well, you can either order a replacement for $50, fill the hole and try again (not recommended), or put your rubber OEM pad back on and go pout.
Okay, now you'll need to grind down the peg a bit to provide a little bit of a flat surface for the pad to rest on. Don't go crazy with the grinder. Maybe shave off 1/8" tops. This part of the process is a little forgiving and there is room to goof up a bit - but not much.
Now you should be ready to seat the new H-D oval pad. For the front lever, the bolt on the pad is just long enough to come out flush with the bottom of the hole, but not long enough to fasten a nut or weld. There really are no other options other than to apply a good amount of JB Weld to the bolt thread and a good amount of silicon to the flat portion of the shift peg to affix the pad. It might be possible to tap and thread the hole to receive the pad bolt, but a problem may arise in which the pad hits the lever arm as you are spinning it on. In order for that to work, the hole in the peg has to be at just the right angle.
Made it this far? Great! Now set your assembled front lever aside for 24 hours to allow the silicone and JB Weld to cure. Here's a pic of the underside of the mounted front lever:
Assembly is a breeze. Slide your levers on, (front lever first and allow enough room on the angle so that it doesn't contact the floorboard or front guard bars if you have them). Install and tighten their corresponding bolts and install your floorboard. Done. You'll notice that the half oval rear pad has just enough clearance for the floorboard.
I've had these on for 1000 miles with no problems. Have fun!