| MAK's KICKSTARTER - NOT - MOD. |
| - Mak
DOWNLOADABLE PDF |
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These are the new parts from JPCycles HD Kickstart
kit approx $40.
The arm is powder
coated.
The washers and nuts are from
the garage
The black “washer” is the engine mount rubber washer
disk thingy.
It also shows the old engine mount axle which I
simply replaced with a new M10 coarse thread stud. Why coarse (?) - if things ever go wrong you
can cut fine pitch over the coarse thread lol!
PS:
Here are the part numbers: the kit(s) are listed as Kicker pedal kits for 1936-1985 Big Twin, on page 597.
Kicker pedal kit with bicycle pedal style: PN 6200170, $54.99
With popsicle pedal style: PN 6200190, $39.99
With O-ring pedal style: PN 6200265, $49.99
Comes complete kick-arm and pedal assemblies, including the kicker spring and spring-stud.
49Reo |
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Length of the new axle is comfortably between 370mm
and 380mm but you can probably get away with 360mm just depends on your
willingness to “knuckleshred”
!!!!!
– also you need a washer and nut for the left
side to tighten when finished.
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Right side engine mount inside - slotted with an
angle grinder / cutter on the inside ONLY and NOT cut through to the front. Cut only the metal ring you can see! The slot you see is where the spring hooks in.
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This is the inside with the spring hooked in the
newly cut slot / Being the inside it is not visible, the spring is a perfect
diameter match - what a coincidence. |
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This is now the front / outside / “visible” side of the
engine mount with the spring squashed onto the ring. The new threaded rod / engine mount “axle”
goes through the hole and a nut fixes fastens the whole thing together.
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This is the replacement bolt for the engine side
cover. The spring hook goes onto the
bolt and the spacer is not required. Although the picture shows the spacer but
when you get around to do this mod you see what I mean by not needing the
spacer.
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New engine mount axle pushed trough. The nut that bolts onto the rod is holding
this thing together is grinded down to a square in size to match the kick
starter opening. This helps best to keep
the kick in position.
Put a decent washer in place before the square nut
goes on then tighten and the square nut turned into position to suit the
kickstart lever. This is why the left
side of the axle nut is not yet tightened – it allows you to turn the axle nut
into position.
Then the kick start lever goes onto the square nut,
then on front of the kick start’s square opening where you can see the square
nut inside put a small shoulder but stiff washer to cover and protect from the
overall nut (nylock?) which tightens the whole thing together. Then tighten the
kick start’s horizontal bolt/nut. FINISHED!
Oh don’t forget to tighten the left side of the
engine mount axle NOW!
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| This photo shows the final axle nut covered with a
powder coated shock absorber nut cover – looks so perfect! The kick start is in a position where one can
reasonably expect a kick start be located! |
You can see the fixing nut of the engine mount, then
the thin slice is the backing washer. The kick nicely moves out and clears the manifold
and engine side cover.
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| Well clear of the engine side cover and the rubber
pedal rotates freely!
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The kick starter is actually flush with the exhaust
manifold end piece from the front cylinder.
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