- Mak


Kickstarter Parts

These are the new parts from JPCycles HD Kickstart kit approx $40. 

The arm is powder coated. 

The washers and nuts are from the garage

The black “washer” is the engine mount rubber washer disk thingy.


It also shows the old engine mount axle which I simply replaced with a new M10 coarse thread stud.  Why coarse (?) - if things ever go wrong you can cut fine pitch over the coarse thread lol!


Here are the part numbers: the kit(s) are listed as Kicker pedal kits for 1936-1985 Big Twin, on page 597.

Kicker pedal kit with bicycle pedal style: PN 6200170, $54.99
                   With popsicle pedal style: PN 6200190, $39.99
                   With O-ring pedal style:  PN 6200265,  $49.99

Comes complete kick-arm and pedal assemblies, including the kicker spring and spring-stud.



Length of the new axle is comfortably between 370mm and 380mm but you can probably get away with 360mm just depends on your willingness to “knuckleshred” !!!!!


– also you need a washer and nut for the left side to tighten when finished.


Right side engine mount inside - slotted with an angle grinder / cutter on the inside ONLY and NOT cut through to the front.  Cut only the metal ring you can see!  The slot you see is where the spring hooks in.


IMG_1501.JPG This is the inside with the spring hooked in the newly cut slot / Being the inside it is not visible, the spring is a perfect diameter match - what a coincidence.

This is now the front / outside / “visible” side of the engine mount with the spring squashed onto the ring.  The new threaded rod / engine mount “axle” goes through the hole and a nut fixes fastens the whole thing together.


IMG_1503.JPG This is the replacement bolt for the engine side cover.  The spring hook goes onto the bolt and the spacer is not required. Although the picture shows the spacer but when you get around to do this mod you see what I mean by not needing the spacer.

New engine mount axle pushed trough.  The nut that bolts onto the rod is holding this thing together is grinded down to a square in size to match the kick starter opening.  This helps best to keep the kick in position.


Put a decent washer in place before the square nut goes on then tighten and the square nut turned into position to suit the kickstart lever.  This is why the left side of the axle nut is not yet tightened – it allows you to turn the axle nut into position.

Then the kick start lever goes onto the square nut, then on front of the kick start’s square opening where you can see the square nut inside put a small shoulder but stiff washer to cover and protect from the overall nut (nylock?) which tightens the whole thing together. Then tighten the kick start’s horizontal bolt/nut. FINISHED!


Oh don’t forget to tighten the left side of the engine mount axle NOW!

IMG_1506.JPG IMG_1507.JPG
This photo shows the final axle nut covered with a powder coated shock absorber nut cover – looks so perfect!  The kick start is in a position where one can reasonably expect a kick start be located! You can see the fixing nut of the engine mount, then the thin slice is the backing washer. The kick nicely moves out and clears the manifold and engine side cover.
IMG_1505.JPG IMG_1507.JPG
Well clear of the engine side cover and the rubber pedal rotates freely!

The kick starter is actually flush with the exhaust manifold end piece from the front cylinder.

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