Ignition Relocation

We have include TWO relocation mods. Mak's is the first and Norman Alexander's follows. The latter is a vintage Gadget Mod.

Downloadable PDF

- MAK's Version

Ignition Relocation - no wiring extension needed:

Hardware from Sherms, and is available in smooth or grooved
It only works if air intake modifications took place but no wire extension needs doing:

  • Take tank off - I trust it is known what needs doing and all care taken not to scratch it :-)
  • Undo ignition at frame - disconnect at socket connection.
  • Take off the socket connector from the frame mount
  • Reroute the wiring nicely to suit
  • Reconnect the ignition at the socket
  • Bolt the ignition to the facia plate
  • Bolt plate to the screw holes in the cylinders left by taking off the air intake drum


You can leave the choke where it was OR
You can reroute it and use the choke mounting bracket (flat black piece) and bolt it to the back of the ignition plate - a threaded hole is provided for it.
Check that you got "contact" which you should since you have done NO wire work of sorts!
This is what it looks like when done (finished in chrome and grooved) with custom ignition key.

Ignition Switch Relocation
By Norman Armstrong

Norman's Instructions:

The procedure was fairly simple but for the cutting of the hole through which the switch projects.

The [stock] switch is now mounted on a homemade standoff to an existing frame-mounted fastener. The standoff (which you will make) is simply a 1.5" long section of ½" diameter 6061T6 aluminum round stock (or something similar you can find at any hardware store), center drilled to 0.265" ID. You'll need to buy an m6 x 75mm bolt to mount the switch.

I located the hole in the cover by [lightly] sticking a piece of double-sided foam tape to the end of the [relocated] switch, then pressed the cover firmly against the switch - transferring the tape. I cut a round hole with a hole saw, then ovaled it with a file to accommodate the angle of the cover. There is about 0.050" clearance all around the switch body, which provides enough room to easily remove and re-install the cover in the original fashion (so my tools are still accessible).

The tank must be removed to gain access to the harness. Also, the re-routing of the ignition switch portion of the harness was a little tricky, and required some minor plastic trimming.

All but one of the wires in the harness is long enough to reach the new location. All you have to do is unwrap the electrical tape covering the harness (to allow the ignition bundle to reach the new location) and splice in about 14" for the short one. I soldered and shrink-sleeved the connections, but crimp connectors should work as well. Re-wrap everything with electrical tape and you're good to go.

Additionally, I moved the choke to the rear cylinder's lower left "coaster" screw (or reed-valve cover screw if you didn't eliminate them). It only required adding one 90 degree bend to the stock choke knob bracket to make it work perfectly.

The Finished Product Cover Off, Close Up Of Standoff & Longer Bolt Straight On Shot, Cover Off
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