Harley-Davidson Headlight Nacelle Mod
2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic FI

By Time2Ride

Downloadable PDF

The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the my knowledge. I can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.

I'd like to thank a few people without whom I may not have ventured into this project. First, I'd like to thank Old C.W. VROC #768 who penned the original instructions and was the first to do this mod a few years ago. I'd also like to thank Ernie VROC #1667 who saw my posting asking for help with this mod and offered his support. I'd also like to thank my brother "Bones" who hung in there until the end. Bones did a great job cutting the nacelle and bringing all the pieces together. It's a truly professional job that we'll both be proud of for years to come. To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time an H-D nacelle has been installed on a Vulcan Classic FI.

Please read through the entire instructions before beginning! Make sure to properly cover your gas tank and fender with a blanket or soft towel. You'll thank me later.

Parts List

Quantity

Part Number Manufacturer
1 # 26-531 Headlight Nacelle Kit Custom Chrome
1 3/8" stainless steel threaded rod Local Hardware Store
4 # 94115-93T 3/8" chrome acorn nuts Harley-Davidson
4 3/8" chrome flat washers Local Hardware Store
4 1 5/8" Standoff Pipe Clamps (for copper pipes) Plumbing Supply house
2 # GW43571 3/8" chrome hole plug Harley-Davidson
1 Lock-Tite bottle  Local Hardware Store
1 # 69627-99 Trim Ring (optional) Harley-Davidson
1 # 39137-1071 Nomad turn signal bar Kawasaki
 1  Hellcat Windshield Solar Memphis Shades

OK. You've got everything you need so let's get started.

Step 1: Remove the handlebars, risers, top of the triple tree, hose retaining bar, headlight and housing, shield from behind the headlight, and chrome fork covers. Do not remove the lower triple tree or cover. 

Step 2: Disconnect turn signal wiring (write down color codes before disconnecting) and remove turn signal bar.

STEP 3: Re-install top triple tree, risers, and handlebars.

Step 4: Attach one standoff pipe clamp to the bottom of each fork. Insert a 2-3" piece of threaded rod into each standoff pipe clamp as shown below. You will be trimming this threaded rod in Step 9.

Step 5: Place one half of the nacelle housing over the threaded rod allowing the rod to fit through the bottom hole in the
nacelle. The bottom of the nacelle housing should sit above the lower triple tree cover. Adjust the location of the standoff pipe clamp on the fork. Lightly secure the clamp. Repeat for the other half of the nacelle housing. Remove both halves of the nacelle housing.

STEP 6: Attach a standoff pipe clamp to the top of each fork just below the top triple tree cover.

Step 7: Measure the distance between the two standoff pipe clamps center to center. Use this measurement for drilling the top hole in the nacelle housing. Repeat for both forks.

Note: The top hole in the nacelle as it comes from the manufacturer is right where the top of the triple tree is located on the Vulcan so you have to drill a new top hole in the nacelle housings.

Step 8: Insert a 2-3" piece of threaded rod into each standoff pipe clamp that you placed near the top triple tree. You will be trimming this threaded rod in Step 9.

Step 9: Place the nacelle housing over the threaded rod and clamps to make sure you have the clamps in the proper position. Tighten all standoff pipe clamps. Measure the length of threaded rod you will need using the acorn nuts and cut the rod to length.

Step 10: Your standoff pipe clamps should be installed now and look like this.

Step 11: Place the nacelle housing over the forks. The threaded rods should fit through the holes in the nacelle housing. Lightly secure the nacelle housing with washers and chrome acorn nuts.

Step 12: You will notice the back of the nacelle housing interferes with your turning radius, cables, and hoses. You will also notice the risers contact the nacelle housing at the top. That's our next step, trimming the nacelle housing for a perfect fit. The nacelle housing is made of aluminum so cutting is not difficult and it will not rust.

Step 13: Looking at your nacelle housing from the rear, determine where to cut your housing to alleviate any pressure points and mark it. Also, look at the nacelle housing from the top where the risers go through and mark your cut there.

Note: When drilling or cutting the nacelle housing be careful to place it on a clean and firm surface. And make sure to always use eye protection.

Step 14: Cut both of the nacelle housings by following your markings above. File any rough edges down. This nacelle is made of aluminum so there is no need to "treat" the edges to prevent rusting.

Step 15: Re-attach your nacelle housing to make sure you have eliminated all pinch points, your turning radius is back to normal, and your risers are not touching the nacelle. You will notice where your hoses and cables bind.

Step 16: Remove the nacelle housing. At this point, you will need to re-route your brake, clutch, and throttle cables. Instead of disconnecting the hydraulic lines I removed the reservoir housings from the handlebar and routed them through the nacelle. Ensure you're not pinching any wires and that your turning radius is normal.

Note: If you decide to remove your brake and clutch hoses to re-route them, be careful to keep the fluid off of your paint. You will also need to bleed the lines when you reconnect them.

Step 17:  Install your nacelle housing for the last time. (Unless of course you decide to follow the optional steps below.)

Step 18:  Connect the wiring harness to the headlight and install the headlight. Start your bike and make sure the headlight works.

Step 19:  Insert the chrome hole plugs in the top holes of the nacelle.

Step 20:  Tie up any loose hoses or cables. Double check your turning radius and make sure all hoses and cables move without restriction.

Step 21: (Optional)  The Classic turn signal bar is not wide enough to fit with the nacelle. However, if you like the look of your stock turn signal you can use a Nomad turn signal bar. Simply move your turn signals to the Nomad bar and it will install in the factory location. You won't be able to use a chrome acorn nut on the lower hole though. You'll have to replace it with a standard nut but it's hidden so it doesn't matter. Remove the headlight trim ring and headlight so you can access the turn signal wiring harness. Route your turn signal wires to the back side of the forks and up under the nacelle housing. Using the wiring diagram you wrote down earlier, re-attach the turn signal wires. Start your bike and make sure the turn signals are working.

Note: If you decide against using a turn signal bar, there are plenty of options available for turn signals.

Step 22: (Optional)  I purchased a H-D trim ring to finish off my nacelle. It adds even more chrome to the front end of the bike :). It's a simple installation as it fits over the top of the headlight trim ring that came with the nacelle kit. 

Step 23: (Optional)  I like to have a windshield for long rides and decided on the Memphis Shades Hellcat windshield. This windshield mounts to your handlebars in two places. All of the mounting hardware is included with the windshield. It won't completely fit around the nacelle housing but it's not too far off. I may take mine to a local glass shop to see if they'll widen the opening to 9". Otherwise, it looks good. 


 

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