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Be careful not to lower the rpm too much.

The Drifter ECU's are very robust so most people never need an add-on box unless they do significant fuel/air mods or want to remap for performance reasons.

I added a box to my bike to stop decel backfires and popping after a pipe mod... 20 years ago. I really wasn't interested in the dyno tuned mapping versions. I just needed a little adjustment to correct a minor problem. This worked for me.

i lowered the rpm via knob... it sounds good. DynoJet came back and said it was a circuit board issue on their part and sending a new PCV. I think im going to put it on and go for the custom tuned map. I'm looking for performance... im a big guy. I appreciate all the help on this everyone... even tho it was their components fault, i find this forum and invaluable resource!

I have taken the PCV off and sent it to DynoJet back in NV.... they have replied in short order stating that the unit I had received was faulty and they are sending a replacement.  After removing the unit, my bike is running well although a bit high on the idle... Props to DJ for standing by their product. A damn shame I spent all summer wrenching instead of riding.

I installed the new intake air temp sensor yesterday and the machine choked itself out by running too rich within six miles of the house.

Inlet air temperature sensor is out of spec. ordered a new part. waiting for delivery will update.

Okay fellas I'm still fighting this thing. I put a new battery in. What is happening when I start the machine, it ran for 12 minutes before the mixture got extremely rich and choked it out. Previous to the new battery it would run for 7 minutes before it would choke itself out. I'm gaining on her. But I need it to stay running to ride it. Next check is for the Inlet air temperature sensor. I really need some help here guys. Thanks in advance.

intake air temp sensor

 i guess I'm not 100% certain its oil. It looks like oil and feels like oil on my fingers... but when you wipe it out of the muff with a paper towel, it appears sooty.

so i put 30 miles on and it ran well other than the high idle... i started her up 4 days later and its back to running like shit. runs choppy, blows oil out exhaust. i was sure the reed valve vac system was the culprit... now i just dont know. anyone have any ideas?

A QUICK UPDATE- i now have the machine running correctly.

NOTE- If you choose the Baron's Big Air Kit,  do not install the reed valve delete blank off plates. Instead, use the marble technique and leave the reed valves alone. Baron instructions say to blank these guys off... the engine will not run properly.

currently running PCV tune .39- muzzy 2-1 and baron big air kit... the bike idles a bit high (1235 RPM @ 1% throttle). I think the dyno tuner will fix that... will update in a week or two.

they probably stopped making the kit because it all but prohibited the side cover from being removed... I had opened up the "fork" of the bracket with a barrel burr and it must have weakened it enough that it finally snapped off. I am planning to weld a washer to the bracket to make it useable again. I am curious as to where the original locations for the ignition key and enricher pull were.

my 99 1500 has this kit installed (Kawasaki Motors Corp USA K53020-399) and the choke cable bracket (part 16) has failed. Anyone know of a cross referenced part or where to find a replacement? It is the bracket that bolts to the rear cylinder reed valve cover.

How did he manage to come up with a 90% reading? There is no connection for a scanner and direct readings are not available for this system. You measure the TPS with a couple of pins and a good DVOM. The input voltage and output voltages are listed on this page. Injectors clogged? Again, where is he getting this from? If the tps were really at 90% the engine would flood and that would be the end of that. I suspect he doesn't really know what he's talking about. This is a mapped/open loop system. There is no feedback, just a cell map for each situation.

to your point, the engine was flooding and when i could get it to run, it was extremely rich. I did the the voltage test on the pins and it was indeed out of range (see above). that is all fixed now

the PCV dynojet software gives a readout for throttle position... that issue is fixed. the connector from the PCV to TPS was lose and apparently it defaults to 90% if there is no signal picked up. Now it has been discovered that the front cylinder is burning oil (possibly). There were no problems previous to the parts installation. I am going to do a compression test to get a better idea of what is going on. i notice that i have much more engine noise since adding parts. i kinda thought that it was the reed valves tapping against the blank off plates... TBC

i recently completed the following upgrades (if they would work right) on my 99 VN1500j:

+6" throttle cables
Barons Big Air KIt
Hardkrome 2-1 Sideburner Exhaust.

I took the bike in to get custom mapped and dyno tuned and the mechanic said that he couldnt do it because the Throttle Position Sensor is telling the ECU that it is at 90%. I followed the manuals instructions on testing the resistance across the 2 pins on the ecu (resistance or voltage, i dont recall...) and it is supposed to be within a range of 4.(something)-5.(something) and it read 6.4. Could i have inadvertently bumped something whilst changing cables? is there a way to adjust the tps? (i found the gadget adjustment technique, however not for this exact problem. will that work to zero the tps back out?)

the mechanic also said that the injectors may be clogged. now i put 600mi on the bike before the new equipment was installed... could the tank removal have dislodged some material that clogged the injectors? To me it sounds like the mechanic just doesnt want the work... as he says hes a month out to work on it.  I wanna ride this thing so bad but it wont run right as is. PLEASE HELP!

the 02 mean streak 1600. I did not test run the parts individually however all accounts say an exhaust swap alone will not need a PCV

does the 99 1500 speedo light up? while riding in the dark last week i noticed no lights on the speedo...

So I went with the Baron's Big Air Kit, Hardchrome 2-1 Sideburner exhaust, and a Power Commander V. Still playing around wit tunes... but there is a huge increase in torque and noticable increase in power.

put a set of Hardkrome 2-1 sideburners on. Sounds extremely fierce!

Are there any vendors that still make a 2-into-1 exhaust for 99 vn1500j?

was it a pretty direct swap or was there quite a bit of fab? did the electronics from the 1600 go on the drifter too?

thank you. this is most certainly more info than i have found anywhere else. do you happen to know if the vn1500j block is the same as all other kaw 1500s? surely somebody has built a performance motor with one of these kids. does kawasaki have a performance division or any speed shops dedicated to kawasaki motors?

Has anyone installed a full stage 4 kit on their 1500? Including: intake/exhaust; cams; cylinders/pistons; hi-flow heads/throttle body. I am not having much luck finding resources on builds, components, etc.