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If the connectors fit, it should work with stock ecu - makers don't tend to reinvent the same part for the same engine -

the fuel injector noise?

I think I replied to your FB post --
replace all the water and vac and fuel lines
add a fuel filter
and other things I put on FB

If you are going to "bother' with bearings, replace them

consider replacing neck bearings and adding a zerk fitting to grease them

grease the bike

check the zerk on the dogbone - replace as needed

i plan to make my own from m18 flanged STAINLESS, then recut the threads

can use door window seal from napa to replace

well, anything can fit with a welder and a death wheel on a grinder -- i mock fitted 900 exhaust to to my 800 .. looked like less than 4 hours of cut, fit, grind, and weld -- btw, the 900 is still almost as quiet

no -- not a direct fit -- if you have the rails for A and the seat for A, it will fit, but A to B, nope. huge angle differences

is it leaking through the port on the bottom right side? there's supposed to be a "vac line on that, running back and then through the right side side panel and down to the ground. If it's leaking, it's over pressured - are you also bogging at highway speed? clean the vent port in the gas cap area - should be fine.

I've "always" been a kawasaki guy .. i think i've owned everything but euro bikes, and i always go back to kawasaki - I FINALLY decided that i needed to do an MSF -- hadn't been riding in 15+ (might be 20+) years, and wanted a cruiser-- sportbikes and I don't mix .. wanted a vulcan model .. found the drifter, bought it same day - taking her mostly back to stock. I love the classic looks and the "starts every time i hit the button" - i don't need radios, LEDS, flash, etc .. while my next bike may be a new 1700, Scout is a joy to ride

nope - i was wrong on this part(i think there are 2 1500s, a 1470 and a 15something)  - i KNOW there are 4 speed gearboxes on the early 1500 - there are also carbed and FI 1500s - i do not BELIEVE (no facts) that there are any 6 speed 1500. i BELIEVE the 1600 will fit, with the 1600 exhaust system, but i really don't KNOW this to be true.

the mean streak has a diff cam and ecu, if you want that performance, be certain to get the tank+fuel pump, ecu, harness, etc

Ah, I didn't note that you are in "Northern Texas" - sorry about that - When I bought Scout, she had the 160 in her.. which is likely the ONLY reason she ran, due to rust in tank and crap in carb. Personally, from your setup, I would say you are jetted just about right. I too prefer a little rich, as running a little cooler doesn't hurt anything, but lean is mean, and HOT

I have both the barndoor and a fatboy clipon windscreen .. it's just ow getting chilly enough for me to consider putting the barndoor back on.. nice to hide behind, but pretty high drag. but, Heck, it's Dallas -- unless it's a deluge I can ride roughly most of the time .. but 115 is a bit toasty!

First and foremost
dynaojet sizes are LARGER than everyone else's sizes
https://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_mikuni_vs_dynojet_vs_keihin_sizes.htm

a dj136 is everyone else's 140

secondly, the main is only important past 1/2 OPEN, not necessarily RPM or speed, but the actual lift of the slider. unless you are in high RPMs, which is the normal buttdyno way to test performance, a larger main isn't going to help you .. that is, if you are cruising in 5th and have to romp the throttle to get up a hill, and the engine doesn't REV!!!!, you should just down shift, as a larger main won't do anything for this circumstance

so, here's a test -- and it's backwards from what you are asking, but try it anyway --

find a hill that is fairly close by and offers a challenge.. go hit it 2-3 times, just as normal, helps if you have a stop watch and get a feel for it.. decide what gear and what speed you hit this in, and stick to it.

then remove your airfilter and repeat -- this is actually LEANING the bike by allowing more airflow

is there a noticeable difference, other than the really cool sound of air rushing in? i bet there is zero to "its faster with the aircleaner off"

then, put the AC back on, and down shift before the hill .. i tend to baby my bike, so this was a little strange for me -- but going from 3800 rpm to 4600 isn't going to hurt her (i use a cheapo $9 tach ziptied to my bars) and see if she goes up the hill better.

just for reference, i am (now) 225# 6'4, and yes, she climbs better now that i've lost 50#

changing the main larger  without MAJOR changes to the exhaust and air system isn't going to yield much, except she'll run a little cooler

have you adjusted your A/F mixture screw? what tooth sprockets ?

marbling is bypassing the smog lines from the valve covers (1/2" cross over plastic hose) to the intake. get 3x1.2" vacuum caps, and if you like, 3 spring clamps or zip ties- .. block off all 3 ports, and it won't backfire (as much) on decel.

i replaced the front lower rubber motor mounts.. zero difference, was a mis-diagnosis

The three grease-nipples (US = zerks) are very low and prone to getting wiped off when bumping the bike up a kerb. I suggest that you remove the nipples and fit short button-head screws to blank off. Just fit the nipples at maintenance time. It could save you grief and £££.

nice tip!!

Thanks .. hmm, would be nice to have baffles.. rumble potato-potato-potato not shout it

these look GREAT

are these neighbor hater loud, or obnoxious when riding loud?

Does anyone have the PN handy for the speedo bulbs?

140 mm is close enough to 5.5" -- which might help you with finding the right tire.

i went 150 on mine .. the width is NO ISSUE, but the overall diameter would be the limiters, first ..

echoing other's comments, i wouldn't consider taking an 800 "dark side" unless it was in some trike configuration ---

and to add emphasis,the side car's connection points WILL BE STRESSED when turning the bike, like a car .. that's how trikes work .. be ready to run wide and take correction accordingly

still loving it -- though i've lost nearly 40lbs since making this, and am considering turning it down to a 1 setting when i reach -50

it does raise the seat about 1" .. so i expect a lowered 1" 900 shock with make it ride about the same.. though, TBH, i like the higher seat height -- while i might not be fur covered, Sasquatch genetics appears in my DNA

funny parallel to my own story -- mine was a kz400 as the last full time ride, other than a weekender here and there.

1 take a MSF course -- second best money i spent on my 800 --
2 first best was michellen commander II tires - totally changed how the bike dealt with low speed and cornering
3 drag the rear brake, OFTEN --
4 get a cheap digital tach, and maneuver at around 2200 RPM, using clutch control for speed ..

welcome back

well, that didn't work
replaced the motormount rubbers, torqued to spec - same 3400-3900 vibration

anyone have any thoughts?

i found it .. it's in a WEIRD place on the diagram
92075a or 92075-1739

found, in stock, and ordered
THANKS

i commute everyday on my 800, and in stop and go, i get 37-41 depending on how throttle happy i am that week -- i use fuelie app - resetting the trip meter generally means i get about 110 miles before i hit reserve -- sometimes 105, sometimes 117 -- so I usually look for fuel at around 100 - on the road, i get closer to 50, and, again, if my butt can take it, i'll look for fuel at 135, give or take, KNOWING i can go more than 20 (likely closer to 40) miles after that before i hit "push me"

ymmv

Thanks Pete -- i keep looking for the PN for the "rubbers" as mine at SPLIT at the "top hat"

I would ---
use a transfer pump to pull out the gas - then, if there's much in there, remove and drain -- but i'd likely not bother
inspect tank for rust -- if heavy rust, then treat with evaporust or like, (or just BOILING water)
inspect antifreeze levels
air up tires
3-4 oz seafoam or marvel mystery oil in the oil, ride around for 30 minutes, change the oil