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(they're currently tapping power off the running lights),

This is how I used to have mine wired Bucko...the spots and fender light using the running lights feed.

Long story short I lost my tail light and speedo light because of an issue with the wiring on the spots (at dusk of course). Took me a while to sort it out. After finding the issue (bare wire shorting to ground) I rewired the spots and fender light to the acc circuit.

I used a 4pin relay and a toggle switch for the spots and did the same for the fender light. The acc circuit is solely used to power the spots and fender light. It is switched through the relay by a keyed wire.

Using the toggle switches I can turn either light on or off while driving, since it's keyed through the relay they turn on and off with the bike as well.

My memory was jogged when I checked in the headlight nacelle this morning and found a couple relays lol...memory is good but short.

My apologies gents.   I went and physically checked the bike and the acc circuit is not switched. It is on all the time.
I thought I was losing my mind. I rechecked how my fender light is connected...It's attached to a relay.

I have my fender light connected to that circuit.
The accessory connector in the headlight shell, and connector under the seat are both on the acc 10a fuse circuit. That circuit is keyed.

Also appear to be 4 position adjustable so maybe they're the same ones from webbike that tj mentioned?

Looks like it to me.

So, in the case of a twin-plug V-twin, both plugs in the same cylinder (on the same coil output) fire at the same time.  Since the two plugs from one coil complete the high voltage circuit - they both fire with equal 'energy'.

I'm pretty sure both plugs (in a cylinder) fire for both the compression stroke and the exhaust stoke (i.e. both plugs fire a 'wasted' spark).

This is exactly the way I understand it.

I notice every-time I start my 99 up for the first time of the day, the left signal light is flashing.  For a long time I just assumed I was hitting the left signal switch inadvertently when shutting down but even when I'm sure I haven't hit it, the next morning when I start up - the left signal will be flashing.  Anyone else experience this?

Yes! This used happened to me intermittently, but I could not figure out why.

Unrelated to the startup flashing issue (I'm not a fan of the self-canceling feature) I disconnected the light blue wire that runs from the speedo to the relay. Coincidentally (or maybe not) since then, I've had no flashing on startup.

Good luck finding the issue...looking forward to reading what you found.

That's the look that I am trying for tj. Do you mind posting where you got the spoke covers?

These are the Tusk brand from RMATV.
Bought them several years ago and they still look good...no fading etc.
I think you can get them everywhere now, amazon etc...in assorted colours as well.

Had the same idea years ago, but I gave up on it. If the chrome wasn't in good condition I may have gone through with it...but I couldn't justify the expense.

I ended up adding some spoke covers...came out ok but having the wheels blacked out completely would look great.

A couple pics of the front wheel attached.

So, I added some symbols so people can respond without actually writing anything?  For some reason that sorta appeals to me!

What happened? Was there for a while...but now gone.

Glad you got it sorted! Out of curiosity, what was the runout on that wheel?

Thanks for the pics and info!

It's just a crush washer...nothing special. If you have a torch, you can anneal it and reuse...or get a new one at your favourite auto parts store.

About 5 years ago, IIRC I bought mine from Webike in japan. They are black and are 4 position adjustable instead of 5. Maybe worth a visit.

That is an interesting one.

When I tore down my 99 for paint I had this same question. At that time, I couldn't remember if I removed this seal and lost it or there wasn't one there to begin with.

When I looked at the part number (I like the Partzilla related fitment section), I found that my KLR650 uses the same part (also labelled CA). I checked the KLR and found that it did have a small o-ring type seal in the gas cap vent hole...so I installed one on the Drifter.

Interested what others have found as well.

Just a thought...rear suspension setting.

Maybe it's worth a look and adjustment.

My rear shocks are set at 13lbs with the dampener at 3. (I'm 225lbs)

I apologize JT for my bad math skills. The rear wheel has 1.375oz/39grams on it, not 2.375oz.

Sounds like the weight is within reason on both wheels (assuming it is in the correct area).

Even if your runout both axi and rad on both wheels is within spec, I think it is still worth looking into...mismatched tires (front to rear) and the rear tire not being a "match" for the bike. Too far off what is suggested by the tire manufacturer and the FSM.

After a ride today, I started to think that maybe the issue is coming from the rear tire/wheel. TJ described my issue as like horse bucking. That's a better description that a handlebar vibration.

Since my last post, I've found the following:

The front tire is a Shinko SR777 bias ply. The front wheel has 1/2 oz of weight on it.
I have yet to measure the run out on the front wheel.

The rear tire is a Dunlop Cruise Max bias ply. The rear wheel has 2 3/8 oz of weight on it. The rear wheel is out by about .030" axial, well within the spec. This measurement is with the wheel on the bike. I have yet to measure the radial. I will likely need to remove the wheel to get a radial run out measurement.

One thing that I am going to take up with Dunlop is that they say that the Cruise Max is not a match for my bike. The size is right, so I want to find out why they say that.

A few things come to mind...

Having almost 70 grams of weight on the rear wheel IMHO is a lot of weight. If the "balance dot" is opposite the valve stem and the wheel weights are 180 away from the stem (assuming the weights are in the same spot)...then there is not much else you can do about it.

Your tires being mismatched (front to rear) will not help the situation. Some say you can mismatch tires with no ill effects. IIRC a few Ducatis came from the factory with mismatched tires...I don't think it's a good idea here and it may be compounding your issues.

If the manufacturer doesn't list the cruisemax as a match for the bike...construction and behavior may be different enough to not be a "match" (belted bias ply vs bias ply etc).

Too many things are not quite right with that rear tire...

Do you bother to torque them? I'm assuming that, since you use an open end wrench, that you do not.

26-65 INCH/lbs from FSM.

All advice is welcome.

I would start here.

Check both wheels for runout.
From the FSM - With tires installed, service limits are 2mm axial (side to side) and 1.5mm radial (up and down). Standard is 0.8mm both axial and radial.

Check how much weight is on the wheel.
There is a note in the FSM. More than 90grams should not be used...I think that's about 3oz. Whenever I balance a tire (static), I start to get concerned around 2oz...especially if it's on the front.

What kind of tire is it?

I've had bad luck with the Michelin commanders. My issues showed up at 60-80km/h. I would have sworn the front wheel was the problem. Turns out the rear was out of round...sometimes you just can't tell.

No worries, maybe someone else will post a picture.

Uppers are welded on. They go under the shock at the top. The lower bolts to the foot peg bracket.

Could you post a pic?

In 1999, I bought a shiny new 1500 Drifter. I road it for several years, then foolishly sold it. I had never been without a bike in the 50+ years before I sold the Drifter. Now, it's 2021, I'm 71 and the itch simply got to be too much. I just bought a shiny, but not new, 1999 1500 Drifter with 9500km on it.
It was a raffle bike at the 1999 Toronto Ontario motorcycle show, so has been custom painted, after market exhausted and single seated.

It's good to be back among Drifter owners.

Good for you and welcome!

I see you're in Ottawa...a lot of great roads around those parts.

Happy riding and post a pic.

Had me fooled...cool look.

Apparently you can't leave a thumbs up...without writing something.

So thumbs up, looks good!

I've obtained the plans for making rear crash bars for the Drifter 1500.  I am hoping to get a set for myself.  As might be expected, it would cost a lot to have someone make just one set, although I'm still checking with different fabricators to see how low a price I can get.  But I would like to know if anyone else out there would be interested in a set of these?  IF I can get them made (and that's a BIG if), I would figure on selling one set for $149, just like when they were previously available.  (That would be black powder-coated.  Chrome would be a good option for those with chrome Drifters, but that would require finding someone who can do the chrome plating, which may be tricky.)

So, please respond if you are interested.  I'll try to keep everyone informed on my progress with this.

Yes, interested.
Did you get the plans from Ted?