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I bought one. It is handlebar mount. I have yet to find a position where it does anything other than cause increased helmet buffeting. It is coming off and going in the trash.

had my 800 up to 90mph for a few miles the last time I had it out and it had more left. But it does love 70 more, very relaxed after grampsizing and 18/39 sprocket change.

isn't his dad's bike a Vulcan too?

Thanks for the pix Outlaw! I'm surprised that $16 NOS part is so hard to find at a reasonable cost. Being NLA certainly does not warrant Corvette prices for simple plastic. If I can find some plastic thin enough to do the simple bends on the edges I'll try that myself. I looked under the dual seat when I put it on and at least it comes very close to the battery box in the open area right underneath. The cover only keeps varmints and maybe 20% of the dust from getting into the battery/ignitor area.

Partzilla is who I started this journey with. They cancelled the order because that piece is NLA. Same result at every big part seller on Google. That's why I'm fishing for a used one.

I need the plastic battery/electrical area plastic cover Kawasaki part number 14091-1060

It is listed on every site I can find as no longer available. But as it is not a wear item, surely there are plenty of used ones. If anyone knows of a parted out Drifter 800, let me know. I would like to have it new or used.

Thanks!

http://pdn1.vnexttech.com/kaw/mc/i1008/frame_fittings/assembly_files/10/1_0.png

you need to force the plug down a bit, and keep it there, so you can get an awl or very small screwdriver under the ring (near an end). Once out of its groove the retaining ring will promptly fly out of the fork leg and hide in the most unaccessable part of your workshop.

I'm posting this as the oddball (gearing joke) in the group.
Somewhere a few decades ago I remember reading that you should have sprockets that are either odd/even, even/odd, or odd/odd. And the BIG no-no was an even resultant ratio, read that as 18/36 or 1:2 ratio should not be run, if you could even find a 36 rear. This was because the same chain rollers are going to be pushed on by the same teeth all the time, causing increased wear.

So, I decided to run 18/39 and am more than pleased with the result. Cleaned the muck out of the area around the front sprocket (and a 19 tooth would be a VERY tight fit if it would even go) and the chain, when readjusted was just fine for length. No clutch slipping, since the grampsizing, I just give it a whiff of throttle, let the clutch out and I'm on my way, no noticeable difference other that each gear lasts longer while street riding, and 5th is now just fine at my normal hiway cruising speed of 70.

I had the same issue with my 2001 Voyager 1200. I bought a sheepskin made for the bike seat and it was a lifesaver. But maybe my problem was different, I called it butt-burn, rather than butt-ache.

I bought 4 stainless bolts from ProBolt part #LSSHX1035F  and they are gorgeous. Not cheap, but they add a nice hitech look. Had to use my diegrinder to open up the slots on the mount so the bolts would go on. Ten minutes for both sides tops, and the flanged bolts cover it all perfectly. Bags are mounted too. Just too hot and sweaty to ride.

Yay! Thanks Hagen for going the extra kilometer for your fellow Drifterers!

these are kinda spendy but they are flanged!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-6AL4V-M10-x-1-25-x-34-mm-race-spec-bolt-Aerospace-Surplus-/301576621179?hash=item46375e0c7b:g:YuEAAOSwPhdVFjxc&vxp=mtr

thanks for the update! really looking forward to being able to ride with properly attached luggage!

I'll take a pair of the 800 mounts from your first order. Do you expect to use PayPal? My zip is 85021.

I'd like to see pix of what you have in mind. Plus a projected shipped cost CONUS.
I've got an 02 800 w/solo seat.

I would like to know where the $99 are that are still being made. Please give us the info.

whatever needle comes in the kit is the one that the grampsizing instructions call for. I used that, the jets they called for, the K&N filter, the modified airbox, removed the CA nonsense, and have a reduced backpressure exhaust and it all works together to make a much easier to ride and more enjoyable bike.

I bought my jets from jetsrus.com and the dynojet kit for 800 Drifter off of eBay.

CDN I could have done that (it has a drop out under the rear wheel) but it was easier to jack it up under the rear suspension rocker, just enough to allow the tire to rotate. Then remove the rear fender, take out the axle, rear sprocket nuts, front sprocket nut and swip/swap all done!

I've also just about finished replacing the clutch (friction and steels) and I'll give a report in a few days, if it ever drops below 110 degrees here, on whether I've fixed the clutch drag problem I've been having.

I found by removing the stock rear piece on the exhaust, why my bike sounds so healthy. Some prior owner went in and put several 3/8" holes in the pipes and flanges you see when you take off the chrome extension. Even tho all you see is the one pipe coming out, there is room around the rear plate for lots of exhaust and sound to come out.

Thanks to YOU, Ken!

absolutely wonderful news! I still pray that the rest of his healing goes without too much pain. We all share the hope that he comes out on the other side brave and healthy.

I just pulled my rear wheel to do a sprocket change. Very easy on a lift with the wheel at elbow height. Taking the rear fender off reminded me of a tip from long ago. Open the end of the lower right side fender brace so you don't have to pull the bolt all the way out to go on or off. The muffler gets in the way, but no more. I don't remember who posted that tip, but about 30 seconds with my air cut-off tool, and I can look forward to the next time it comes off.
Also should finish installing my new clutch tomorrow. Nice that Kawasaki made the lower right portion of the frame detachable.

Tom,
That's a good idea. I just picked up a new filter yesterday, so I'd say a change to something known is in order. I've only put about 150 miles on the bike since I bought it. I was so pleased with the grampsizing that I've been riding it more, but have no idea what the PO had put in it. I'll let everyone know if that has any affect on the problem.

This is on a 2002 800 with ~6500 miles

If I have a properly adjusted cable, can't get into neutral without shutting off the engine.

If I take all the freeplay out of the cable and I can shift into neutral from first fine when the drivetrain is cold. But as it warms up it gets harder to downshift, and neutral again disappears.
If you sit at a stoplight in first, clutch pulled in, the bike will actually start to creep when warm.

So. are my clutch plates swelling up? The steels warped? I doubt this as there are no other symptoms. I've never had this happen on any of my 80 previous bikes. The clutch has plenty of grab and has never slipped regardless of adjustment.

I'm guessing a new set of plates is on the horizon. Is there a recommended set? Barnett? Stock?

sprockets ordered. if you get the bike high enough on an underchassis lift, can you drop the rear wheel without messing with the rear fender?

the springs will be ordered as soon as I sell a few more Puch parts.