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Looks good. That's sort of what I had in mind. I have some aluminum stock for the brace also. Thanks for the help. Will be this weekend's project. Mike

I know a few of you have mounted the Caddy Bullet tail lights on your rear turn signal. I've read a couple of posts about making a bracket to help support the weight & keep horizontal.  How did you actually mount the new light fixture to the turn signal housing? Once again, thanks for your help. Mike

Thank you for the good advise and info. Pastor Dude, I appreciate your detailed instructions. I am sure others will also appreciate this information. Mike

I installed a set of driving lights and wired them to the accessory tap in the headlight housing through a on/off switch mounted on the handlebar. I would like to change to a connect point where the lights will turn off when the key is off. I can just imagine that I'm asking for a dead battery some morning. Would you share where you connected your lights so I can reconnect them? Appreciate your help. Mike

The lower pipe bolted to the original exhaust support for the muffler.  For the upper pipe, I made a simple support from a strip of 3/8" aluminum. Very easy to do.

I tried to find the Krylon  stained glass paint (Hobby Lobby,Michaels, & several other craft places) but no luck. I wonder if it is still being made or if a special order?

A DIY project for anyone that likes the classic look of amber running lights. I purchased a piece  (12X24) of automotive tint film on eBay for $1.99 and free shipping. It has a peel off backing. If your lens is not too curved you can apply it to the inside curvature of the lens. Heat from a hair dryer will allow it to be shaped.  I just laid it flat across the inside of the lens as it clears the bulb.

When I was looking for aftermarket pipes for Diddly Squatt, I would follow the Craigslist adds for Kaw Drifter within a reasonable drive from my home. If a seller said he had both aftermarket and stock exhaust, I would send him a email stating that "if the buyer wasn't interested in the aftermarket pipes that I might buy them".  I received several offers to sell me the exhaust before I found the fishtail exhaust for $100 within a short distance from my home.
The reason I am telling this is that some Drifter riders can't afford to spend the $400+ plus shipping that many manufacturer's ask for their exhausts.

The benefits of fringe, leather, & studs are ---they look good...

I made some trims for the floorboards from some of the left over materials from my mud flap project.

They look awesome. I'm so jealous   Apparently you opted for no baffles, or did you get them in there since your last post?

Oh No..Baffles are definately necessary. Very loud without them.

Diddly Squatt sure sounds sweet farting along down the road. Maybe my imagination but she feels like she wants to haul arse.

Here are a couple of photos of the exhaust and baffle that I am wanting to install.

I was planning to get a Dyno-jet kit. I figured that a airbox mod and pipes would require a richer mix.

I'll take a photo when I go to the shop in a little while. Yes, these have the hole for bolting to the inside of the pipe. I was concerned about the placement of the baffle in the pipes and the acoustics and exhaust flow.  Maybe the direction through the baffle and the location in the length of the pipe don't matter that much. Thanks, Mike

I picked-up a set of headers with fishtail straight pipes. I ordered a couple of 8" baffles for them. Any advise on installing them? Does the flange on the baffle go towards the engine or away from it in the pipe? Thanks again, Mike

I tried the leather belt method and my pants fell down; but I got the filter off.

Thanks for all the good information. Mike

I'm getting ready to change my oil and filter. The service manual says to use Kawasaki silicon sealant and put grease on the gasket.  I've always just applied oil to filter gaskets and tightened down. Do you guys use this silicon sealant? Thanks for your help, Mike

lol I just did that with leather from Tandy, and I like it and like yours so perhaps you need to make more for members...lol....

They sure look nice with those red fenders.

Great idea and page. Gave me a lot of good ideas. I like the horn mod. Mike

I just finished a fun & easy DIY project. I picked up a piece of reinforced rubber from a surplus company and made my own classic mud flaps.
They look like leather and should much more durable. Total cost for the studded mud flaps and industrial Velcro to mount them was less than $12 for both.  If you like fringe, like I do, a 36" piece to do both will cost about $20 on eBay. I took a 80 mile road trip this afternoon and they stayed very secure.

I went with the Metzeler 880's.  Have had several compliments of them. I got them from a local tire shop. To get the $50 rebate card, I think you have to get them from  participating dealer. The closest one to me was about 80 miles away. I've put about 80 miles on them and they seem to handle the road well.

I've got the front brake working and learned a lot from the experience. I suspect the brake fluid was low and when I took the caliper off, air got into the line. I suspect the brake fluid might have been the original (say 11+years) as it was black and gummy at the caliper end. I removed the pistons and cleaned the grime build-up and they slid all of the way into the caliper housing. I then bled the system until all of the old fluid was out.  Now that I feel comfortable with the disk brakes, I will do the rear brake this weekend. I'm a beginner at working on a motorcycle, but with a good service manual and the support of the VDR friends, I don't think I would be afraid to tackle any maintenance, repair project.  Mike

Thank you fellows. I will do as you recommend and install tomorrow. I measured the pads while I had it off and there is a lot of use left in them.  I was going to order a set of pads for future use list to have on hand. Any recommendations? Thanks again, Mike