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That is the part number, but it took a lot of searching to find someone who sold the second half in a complete package.  If you are ordering this part make sure you provide the full part number including the suffix 46093-0002 which provides both halves of the seal.  Part #49063 is just the part that goes into the crankcase. Also it's a good idea to replace the o ring on the shaft as well. Thank you again for your help!

Take care,

Pete

Yes, I found that part, but that is only half of the seal. You only get the part that presses into the core or crankcase.  The other half of the seal is not mentioned anywhere. I only received that seal without the other half. Thank you for your help!

Take care,

Pete

Hi,

I am having a hard time finding the water pump mechanical seal.  There are 2 parts to the seal. One spring loaded seal that is fitted into the casing (half of the carbon/ceramic seal shaft seal) the other half is a ring seal that sits on the inside of the impeller(other half of carbon/ceramic seal). Kawasaki dealer cannot find the part. They don't know what I'm talking about and can't seem to help. I have been on their website and their exploded view doesn't even show both seals. Can't seem to find the part online either. Anyone have any information on where I can find the right seal for my 2002 Drifter 1500R. Thank for any direction!

Take care,

Pete

I went stainless a couple of years ago. Got my throttle lines from Motion Pro and had my hydraulic brake and clutch lines custom made with the correct fittings from a company in my back yard. Contact Chris Harkins at Industrial Equipment Supply in Woburn MA.  781-933-3300. They have a machine that can do motorcycle hydraulic lines. He did a great job. Good luck!

Front running lights?  I only have headlight and directionals up front.  I found the problem but was too embarrassed to say. It was the fuse. Apparently I tested the wrong fuse when I started. Later after taking the ignition apart and testing every contact I realized it was back at the fuse box again. So I tested every fuse and found the blown one. Replaced it, tah dah, felt like an idiot! I'm French, I have two lefts. Anyway, I was very happy to find it before I started taking the bike apart to trace wires. Riding very happily now! Thank you for all your advice. Invaluable and greatly appreciated!!!!

Thanks.  I'll try that this Friday. I'll let you know what I find out.

Ok. So after studying the electrical diagram, it appears that the tail/brake and lic. light share a common ground with the turn signal lights so it can't be the ground because none of them would work and the turn signals are still workng.  Following the feed wire (red) from tail/brake and lic. light back goes to the ignition switch. It seems that the problem is probably at the ignition switch not providing power to the lights. Does that seem logical or am i missing something here? Has anyone else had a similar issue with their ignition switch?

Thanks guys. I think there must be another junction somewhere between the fuse block and the rear connector.  I guess I am going to have to trace the three wires backwards from the connector and keep checking for continuity along the way. I was thinking it is probably the ground which is often times the case and it hasn't moved all winter and was working when I put it away. Probably rust seeped in along some connection point. Looks like a little patience and time is going to be the case.

Help! Tail light, plate light, brake light are not working but the directional lights are. Checked the tail light/plate light fuse and it's good. Checked power to the fuse and that's good. Disconnected the rear fender harness connector and tested the prongs.  Power to directional's good (lower two prongs), no power to the top 3 prongs, tail, plate and brake. Somewhere between the fuse box and the rear fender connector is a problem. Can't find the color coded wires from the rear fender connector anywhere else on the bike (fuse box or main harness inside headlight assembly). Any ideas where the wires for the tail light go from the fuse box and what color they would be before they get to the rear fender. The wires from the fender connector go into a large harness just behind the engine but not sure where they go from there. Everything else on the bike is working fine and she's running like a top. I'm so confused!

Mounted my GPS and an MPH App on phone. Ran both in my car to make sure they were accurate. Both GPS and phone app read exactly the same and both were within 1 to 2 mph different from my wifes's Honda CRV speedo. Pretty darn accurate.  Mounted GPS on bike and took her for a ride yesterday. Not as far off as I first thought.  Only about 8% deviation.  If my speedo is reading 60 I'm really doing about 55. Very little difference above that so on highway at 70 really doing 65 etc.  Obviously less at lower speeds.  I originally thought it was about a 10 mph difference at higher speeds. I usually ride 5 to 10 mph over speed limit and seemed to be the slowest thing on the road. I guess they are just crazy here in the East.

One good thing came out of all this.  I have a '06 Wrangler I tool around in and it has oversized tires. I found out that just changing the tires to a 10.5X31 had the opposite effect. When speedo reads 30 i'm really doing 35. When my speedo is reading 65 i'm doing 72. I'm surprised I haven't gotten a ticket yet.  Also my odo reads .1/mile less for each mile driven. Learn something new everyday! Are all Drifter or bike electronic speedp's like this?? How about cars?

Thanks guys! I was going to ask what a speedo healer was, great link. I am still looking into my options for correcting the speedo but sounds like the speedo healer is the best solution. Thank you again!

Pete,

Have an '02 1500 that is posting much higher speed than actual. Posted speed 35 - actual 30, posted 80 - actual 70. I know it is an electronic speedo not cable. Is there a way to calibrate it or do I need a new sensor? Also, where is the sensor located and is it hard to get at? Thank you!

Pete

Wow. Can you say "Big Brother".  For every measure we allow our government to "protect" us or keep us "safe" we give up another freedom. Freedom does not come cheap. Just ask our brothers and sisters who serve. That's why I live in NH, a State many people never heard of, our State motto, "Live Free or Die" 

I just installed the Flanders Grande Beach bars on my '02 1500 last Spring. Love them! I had to extend my throttle cables about 3 inches,  the clutch hose about 4 inches and the front brake hose about 2 inches. I ran the lines a little long and in their original configuration. Didn't want to take the chance of binding and having to buy new hoses or cables. I did what Chief said to do. I put the bars on and ran rope to get lengths then added about an inch to each. I was surprised to find different lengths, I just thought they would all be equal increases. I left the string on so I could follow the original track of the cables and hoses. I went with all stainless cables and hoses. I also ran all the electrical inside the handlebars. I had to add about 8 inches on all electrical wires. Was a little scary drilling  4 holes in my new handlebars for the electrical. I soldered all the electrical extensions and tested them before the final installation. For me the handlebars have been the best mod done so far. Took all the strain and pain out of my shoulders, my arms are down and comfortable. I am tall (6'3") and have monkey arms so I have no problems reaching the bars. The biggest issue was finding a way to get my original left grip cap re-fastened to the handlebar. The plastic cap was screwed onto the left handlebar by a threaded bar welded into the end of the original handlebar at the factory. A little yankee ingenuity took care that. I'm ridin' this afternoon so I will take some pics and post tomorrow. Won't be home 'til late tonight otherwise I'd post 'em today for ya.

Now that's a laceration. Fair amount of tissue loss. Any tendon damage? That would be bad. That's definitely going to leave a mark! Sorry it happened, she's a brave girl to get back on the horse, most wouldn't. Ride safe!!!

It was an Edge motorglider. I was into soaring, loved the quiet and the sound of the wind. I also flew fixed wing and weight shift. Got my glider rating in the Edge. I still dream at night about my flights. Maybe someday I'll get back into it if fate allows.

Listen to your gut. I flew experimental aircraft for 12 years. Every time I flew I knew it could be my last but I loved it so much that I couldn't get enough. One day I woke up and just felt it was time to stop. Don't know why, just did. Sold my aircraft and eventually bought by Drifter to get back into riding after a 20 year hiatus.  I've had several very close calls in my life that could have easily ended differently (not sure who's watching out for me but I know someday I'll get to thank them) but never let fear stop me from living life. (not an adrenaline junkie or risk taker by any means) But I have always listened to my gut. Women call it intuition. Never ignore that little voice, if something doesn't seem right or feel right, listen, it just may keep you from being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Good luck, be safe and enjoy each day!

I'm no expert but Tap and Die must match. I've redone holes before and have experienced the same thing. They sometimes seem to be a little loose after re-tapping. Could be your tap is not as precise as the machined hole from the factory or somebody else buggered it up before you. A little Locktite again should fix that!

Will do.

GB - I just finished putting Flanders Beach Grande on my 1500 two months ago. Best mod I've done on the bike so far! Now having said that, like PC said, every rider is different. I'm 6'3" with a 6 1/2 foot wingspan so the 39" width on the Grande bars puts my arms by my lower waist just outside my shoulder width and just forward, kinda like I'm sitting in a comfortable chair watching TV, sitting straight with a 90 degree bend in knees and elbows. All the strain on my back and shoulders is gone and now I can ride for as long as my butt can hold out. It also changed the aerodynamics on the highway as well ( no windshield), for the better to my surprise. Didn't see that one coming but couldn't be happier. I did have to extend wiring and hoses and throttle cables. I hid all the wring in the handlebars so I had to extend them all about 8 inches. I went with stainless on the cables and hydraulic hoses and only had to extend them about 4 inches but kept the routing the same. I had tried to re-route the original cables and hoses behind the triple tee but it was still too tight for comfort. It was a time consuming but not a difficult job at all. Of course I had a very long cold winter to do it over so no complaints. It would be great if you could try different configurations but what how I decided was I sat on the bike and put my hands where I wanted them, then had my neighbor measure the distance my hands were from my original bars both height and pull back, that's how I chose the Beach Grande. Good luck!!!

Take care,

Wow, that was quite a difference. Very noticeable and it came out great. Engine looks new. I hope I can find this string in a few years when mine is gonna need it! Great job!  Oh, and I like your garage, very jealous! All I have is a shed, gets a little tight in there sometime. 

I hear ya 49. We just got another 8 inches of wet heavy snow again here last night on top of at least a 2ft base still. We ain't ridin' here for a while. That's ok. The bike is still apart in the shed. Not quite finished the winter project yet! Should have it done just in time for the first (hopefully) ride in late April!

I put the V&H longshots on last year. Took Troll's advice and put in a cobra FI2000 ( I think, I can check tonight and make sure). It's the one that auto senses and make like thousands of corrections a second. No need to tune it. It has worked flawlessly, great gas mileage and no popping. I had removed all the emissions stuff (reed valves and all the hoses from on top of the engine) and bought the machined plates to cover the holes from someone off this forum, I'm sure Troll can tell you who makes and sells them. That alone didn't stop the popping on decel, it helped but not enough so I installed the Cobra. Both jobs were easy to do and took very little time especially with the help and instructions from this forum. The Cobra is small and I mounted it to the top, rear and left of the battery compartment underneath the seat. Let me know if you want pics. I have the bike apart right now as I am in the process of installing Grande Beach Bars. Everything is pretty exposed. Good luck!!!

Take care,

Pete

You might try a marina. They do sell marine grade adhesives. I have used them on my boat and they can withstand constant water contact and exteme conditions. Though you will not be able to remove the lights without removing either paint or other residue from bottom of bike or tank. Might no be a good choice for your application. A good pure silicone adhesive should do the trick with less damage to the surfaces when you want to remove or replace lights. It would remain pliable and withstand the weather as well. As with all adhesives, the key to any good bond is the mating surfaces must be clean of any oils, grease or other residues. Good luck!

Thank you for the offer Dave! No hurry in measuring it out yet. I will search online for Venhill engineering. I am also digging a little deeper locally. I thought I read somewhere that there is a place in MA that does hydraulics for all sizes and fittings. When I find the place I'll order the bars then measure the length I need before ordering any cables of hoses. Plenty of time before we see any riding time here! Thanks again!!!!

Pete