Messages

I'm ready to tap out....

I purchased a new ECM, everything works now...pump, etc.  EXCEPT for the starter.  Before putting the ECM on, the starter rolled without a problem.

I'm thinking of stripping it down and going over every connection with a wire-brush.  I just can't think of anything else.

I'm stumped....

drifter-paul Ignition is good.  I cleaned all the contacts and reassembled it. It works fine.

Interesting thing happened while I was checking my ignition.  I had purchased another Denso relay for the fuel pump, I installed it and the fuel pump ran, then stopped. Normal.  I turned over the motor, and the pump did not come back on.  I checked the voltage coming from the relay and it was around 1.4-1.7 volts.  Weird.

[Black Pearl]

Deep Gooseberry, KAW084

This is the website for all factory paint codes.

https://touchupdirect.com/touch-up-paint/kawasaki/vulcan-1500-drifter/?srsltid=AfmBOooOnWA2I4u4v_KLzLH96XmnQrYfkHO-eEqBI80CksRfTRYNpN8m#pf-color=113972

Other Kawasaki paint codes:

• Black Pearl: B5
• Candy Cardinal Red: 28 or L1
• Ebony Black: 6C or H8
• Galaxy Silver: 35 or 474
• Metallic Ruby Red: 31B, 56, or 468
• Pearl Burnish Beige: 13 or X8
• Sky Blue: 54
• Sunbeam Red: 22, 6B, or H1
• Kawasaki Candy Lime Green: 17P, 367, 39, or 8N
• Kawasaki Lime Green: 777
• Kawasaki Black: 20

@drifter-paul
Nothing but the key on the ignition, never had more than 1, but I'll test it.

I'll pull the ignition and test it and see.

Thanks!!

@Troll
I ran the pump directly. It works.  I ran a ground to the proper circuit, and nothing. The relay still works, but the signal isn't getting to the pump. ECM is toast, I believe, unless I'm missing something.

I'll look for one on eFlay.

Thank you all.

Gotcha.

Hi Chief,  is this for the Kaw Mule u-joint, part # 49050-1060?  If so, I have some replacement #'s

Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ WQSING (amazon)
ASIN ‏ : ‎ B0CQJNY453

All Balls U-Joint
Item: 383293-347892

FridayParts
SKU#: FPLX2408070

ATVWORKS
Product ID XUJ704

Caltric
# ‎UJ122/5

@Troll. I'll do that. Sorry about the Newbish questions, but I've been chasing this damned thing for a few months and I don't seem to have an affinity for electronics.

Hey Troll, thanks for the intel. Would replacing the ignition switch fix that problem? Or, cleaning the contacts?

If the voltage is low on that 31 pin, would it be part of the low voltage issue on the others?

If you don't know, I still really appreciate your input.

Ken

I'd LOVE to do that!!  If only for the lack of funds, but that's life aint it?

I appreciate your confirmation of my suspicions.

Ride on and enjoy!!

Ken

Hi, I appreciate your replies.

Clutch, kickstand and engine kill switch all check out with continuity.

Female pins are tight and intact.

Starter works now that the relay/solenoid has been replace.

Fuel pump has shut off and stayed off, although the relay works.  I will be pulling it and checking it directly.

Ignition switch provides power to all locations I've checked.  I am open to hearing tests I don't about, as learning is why I'm here.

I did check the ECU with the needle test probes and per the shop manuals ECU test procedure, it isn't showing the correct voltage for the 31 connection.  I don't wanna buy a new ECU, but it's looking that way.  Again, I come here to learn, so if anyone has had this issue, lay it on me.

Hello,

Old-ish subject, but I must admit confusion.

Reading this post - https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=56209.0 - I had my curiosity peaked.  I began doing research on ALL 1500 cylinder heads, cams for the above mentioned 1500 models. Turns out from 1999 to 2006 all the 1500 models have the identical cylinder head, camshaft, manifold, injector and throttle body part numbers.

So, I question how the ECM/ECU's for them are different?  I mean if the mechanicals, gear ratios, etc. are identical (except for the Meanie, as I understand it, they have closer ratio gearing), then how is the computers mapping different?

Also, I've modified the hell out of my Drifter and the ECU seems unaffected, I've also read people who've changed piston/cylinders, cams and so on and left the ECU relatively untouched.

If there's no difference in the mechanicals, gearing and so on, why does everyone say the ECU's are different?

Scratchin' my head over here...

Testing the ECU per the shop manual.

Connection 31 is supposed to show 12.5 V or more with the key ON; it shows only 1.4-1.5 V.
Connections 8, 16, 21, 24, and 32 show continuity per the shop manual.

The DFI Fuse and Main Relay are fully functional, and the ignition fuse is good. The starter has been working consistently after the relay was replaced.
I'm now sure the ECU's toast unless someone has had a different experience.

Here are the particulars.

• Around 3-4 months ago, I noticed that after sitting for a week or so, the starter was reluctant to turn over. I would press the starter button, hold it for 15-20 seconds, and then the starter would crank normally, starting the bike.
• After a few times with this happening, the starter simply wouldn't engage; press the starter button, 1-click, and nothing.
• However, a heavy screwdriver across the starter relay/solenoid leads (the heavy cables that run to the starter) would get me immediate engagement.
• I do not claim my batteries are in excellent; my 2 load testers do. One is a physical load tester with the heavy coils that get super hot and one is a digital load tester. The results are the same on both load testers. Excellent health.
• With the wire-tap (to my tach) removed, the starter worked, then it didn't. I deleted the mechanical connectors and soldered the tap to the headlight wire as it was already compromised and doesn't come into play until after the starter engages. Truth be told, it had worked for more than a decade without issue.
• Resistance before and after the tap is identical regardless of the situation - key-on, key-off, headlight on, headlight off. Same.
• I tested the starter relay per the shop manual. It checked out, but I replaced it (the one with the 30 amp main fuse) as it was an inexpensive part and I thought the older one might be kicking up abnormal resistance.
• It seemed to fix the issue as the starter cranked over. So, I reassembled everything hoping to get out on the road.
• I shut down the motorcycle. reassembled it and when I turned the key, the fuel pump did not engage, but the starter did.
• Square one, disassembly.
• I tested the tip-over sensor per the shop manual. It checked out.
• I tested the fuel pump relay per the shop manual, and it functions.
• I tested the fuel pump per the shop manual, and by connecting it directly to the battery. The pump and its systems are in working order.
• I reconnected all the relays and everything went back to the beginning.
• The starter wouldn't crank over. Out of curiosity, I held it down for a bit and the starter engaged and the bike ran.
• I did look over the JB, no corrosion is visible.
• I rechecked all the visible wires and they are fine. No bare spots, frays or corrosion.
• One last thing, I have tried to get the ECM to go into self-diagnostic mode.  The LED is functional, but nothing happens.  No flashing lights, nothing.

I am wondering if it isn't the ECU that's going bad, but I want to be sure as they're not thick on the ground nor are they inexpensive.

After a recent experience - yesterday, I thought I'd post this here as a potential help to others.

I'm a skeptic. I believe half of what I see and nothing that I hear.  About 2 years ago, I had to store my 2003 Drifter for an extended period; I added a fuel stabilizer and ran the bike dry, fogged the pistons, disconnected the battery and put a battery tender on it, and put the bike on a lift with the tires off the ground. From new, I have always used premium synthetic oil in it so I didn't think I needed to add anything to the crankcase.

Flash forward 19 months and I got it prepped to go for a run. I new oil, filter, fresh fuel with a bottle of Techron, tested the battery, and fired it up.  The "Little Man With A Hammer" made his presence known.  A heavy, pronounce lifter tic.  I let it warm up - no change; I took it out for a run of an hour - no change.  Researching various 1500 forums produced no tangible results; Liqui Moly & Rislone are no-go's for wet clutches, are all the other lifter treatments I found.  I tried regular Seafoam and it did take out the hard metallic sounds, but not the ticking.  I went to Napa (my go-to for my projects) and asked the guy I know the longest what he could recommend.  He walked over to the additives and pulled out a bottle of Seafoam High-mileage treatment telling me this stuff was designed with really heavy deposits in mind.  I buy my Amsoil from him and challenged him a bit. I told him I tried regular SeaFoam with minimal results and he told me that motorcycle engines have very small galleys and openings, so things that wouldn't bother a car, might clog the much smaller parts in a motorcycle, he said, to give it try.

3.5 ounces went into the cold crankcase.  No change at startup, nor for the first 15-20 minutes;  stop and go, highway. Stop to get lunch, more of the same for the rest of the afternoon.

The net-net is that when I  pulled into my garage the noise was gone and running quite nicely.  I went out this morning to see if it was true and no lifter noise at all.  The Little SOB with the hammer had left the building. I sounded like my grandmother's old Singer - with straight pipes.

I was always skeptical of Seafoam in your crankcase, but hell, this could be a way for a lot of my fellow riders to get quieter motors.

It can't hurt.  I hope this helps someone.

I refurnished mine.  There are several options in the Mods & Accessories.

I used Redline Shock oil and am very happy.  There is also a section on how to use current Progressive Suspension parts to do a balancing set up for both shocks and filling them with 1 inlet.
Redline 10wt is the closest to stock oil, but I am heavy so I went with 30wt.  It's been great.  A lot more control and a firm ride without harshness with a 25-30 PSI in the air portion.  Loaded I crank it up to 50 PSI and that usually does fine and is quite comfortable.

And that's my 2 Cents.

Great!  Thank you both.

Dipping into the knowledge well again, so many thanks in advance.

My right fork seal blew. Not sure why, but I reviewed the manual and got familiar with the process, including buying the tool on ebay.  A quick recommendation on that is the that the handle is basically a 2 foot 3/8" extension.   If you have a couple of longish extensions, then the tool you need to buy is the tip.  Cut's the price in half.

Anyway, on to the reason I'm here.

I disassembled the forks per the manual and I noticed a sludge  in the bottom tubes.  However, in the fork tube that had the bad seal, the sludge was drastically more, in amount and in thickness - goopiness.  I've changed the fork oil twice since I got the bike; the first time for maintenance, the second time to increase the viscosity.  Both times I used Red Line Synthetic.

So -

What is the sludge?

Can I prevent it from accumulating or better yet,  happening again?

What can I use to clean it out?  My first instinct was to hit it with a couple of cans of Brake Kleen, but I know that stuff can be too caustic for many parts.

Thank you again for all the help.

Yep.  But as CDNRatMan clearly illustrated, it can be done with no issues.

When I get the appliance cast, I'll post a picture.

Okay...so, no problems then.

Thank you!

I put in a tool bag where my regulator was, but now I'm having trouble getting my kickstand down; there are no custom kickstands for the Vulcan models.  My thoughts are as follows:

1) buy a casting and bolt it to my kickstand foot to allow my foot to catch and pull down the kickstand, or
2) cast an object with nuts already embedded.

Either way, I would have to drill out 2 holes in the foot and put in a couple of flush mounting SS bolts from the bottom.

My question is would this hurt the kickstand?

I wouldn't be opposed to putting in some JB Weld to hold it all together.

I'm open to thoughts, ideas, alternatives...

I would suggest the Thunder Mfg. clutch upgrade.  I had a similar problem to what has been described here and after replacing it with this that gremlin was evicted.  Solid feel, solid engagement.

I attached my bags to the stock bag brackets that I got when I bough my Drifter using Ghost Brackets and the luggage rack as a brace between them.

1 - Order Ghost brackets for a Vulcan 800
2 - Get the luggage rack/bag brackets bolted in place.
3 - Go to hardware store and get replacement metric STAINLESS steel bolts that are just long enough to attach the special mounts to the bag brackets.
(while you're there, get the biggest fender washers you can with 3/8" holes)
4 - Once that's all solidly bolted on, attach Ghost Brackets to the special mounts and lock in place.
5  - Put bags against the Ghost Brackets and adjust until you're happy, clamp in place (I used a couple of auto body Vice-grips with the swivel pads)
6 - Using a grease pencil, mark the outline of the Ghost Brackets on the hard backing of the bags.
7 - Unlock and remove the Ghost Bracket, with the bag still clamped if possible; if you can't just realign the GB's with the grease pencil markings, then re-clamp.
8 - Drill starter holes through the GB into the back of the bags, remove GB and drill 3/8" holes.  Clean off burrs.
9 - Run Bolts through GB mounting holes into the bags, use those fender washers and run the nuts tight (the washers will squeeze the foam inside down.)
10 - Remount everything and make sure of clearances.

I had to use some washers as spacers to get everything adjusted properly, but I've got 3 riding seasons with them and never had a problem and my bags come with me into my room at night.

If you're interested, I have a PC III that has been Dyno'd in for Bub Big Willy's and a Thunder Mfg. intake.  It has the dyno information and mapping CDs.

I have a Power Commander III that I no longer need.  I had it Dyno'd in when I put on my Thunder Mfg teardrop intake and my Bub long pipes, I have the CD's with all the Dyno information and mapping that resulted from the Dyno work.  They dyno work alone cost $400.00