Messages

Easy Drifter, I looked at Partzilla and saw Kawasaki OEM part # 23037-1401 ( rear turn signal assemblies for $77.35 each ). OEM part #'s 23037-1426 and 23037-1427 ( front turn signal assemblies for $76.43 each ). These prices total out at $307.56. Around $350.00 when you add in sales tax. Thanks for responding to my post.

Greetings all, My 2006 Drifter is approaching 20 years old and is showing her age. She has been garage kept under a cover but time has taken its toll. The rubber portion of her turn signal assemblies has started to crumble  and fall apart. I have come to learn that this is a fairly common problem with Kawasaki's Vulcan series motorcycles. Rubber portion of the assembly is not available separately for sale. Cost of 4 new assemblies is around $350, Ouch!. Does anyone know of an alternative fix? I was hoping maybe someone has created a 3D printer replacement for the rubber pieces. I'm open to suggestions. I will say that I am not into cheap Chinese replacements.

Thanks and happy drifting, CDD

Timmomo, Are you just looking to clean white walls, wheels or lubricate a drive chain? A wheel cleaning roller stand is an inexpensive alternative to a motorcycle lift. The roller stand is also very compact compared to a lift. Harbor Freight has a good quality roller stand for about $30.00 . The unit is marketed under the brand name Haul Master with the  Harbor Freight SKU#98800. This is the unit that I used until I purchased a Larin MAL-2C motorcycle jack that came with an adjustable adapter cradle to fit our VN800 Drifters. Lift works great when cycle is properly strapped to lift. I purchased this lift over ten years ago, but I think that it is still available.

Happy Drifting, CDD

Pete,K53020-340 is the Fire and Steel part number for this tachometer. The tach is listed for fitment on 800, 1500 and 1600 Kawasakies. I don't think a Drifter specific tach was offered. Happy Drifting, CDD

My experience has been; If it sputters or stumbles as it dies = fuel related problems. If it cuts dead off = electrical problems. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope you can get things resolved quickly and frugally. Happy drifting, CDD

Kow8rdr, To provide a baseline, I have measured the stock VN800 dog bone that I purchased. Stock bone: center of bearing hole to center of pivot hole is 7 and 7/8 inches. Scootworks bone: ( 3 positions available; 1,2 and 3 inch lower) 1 inch lower, holes center to center is 8 and 1/8 inches. 2 inch lower, holes center to center is 8 and 3/8 inches. 3 inch lower, holes center to center is 8 and 5/8 inches. Looks like the magic formula is adding 1/4 inch per inch of drop that you are trying to achieve.

Happy drifting, CDD

Kow8rdr, If I am reading Luckys post correctly, he states the the standard VN900 shock raised his seat height about 1" on his 800 Drifter. I believe that the 1" lower Vn900 shock would put your seat height about where it is now with your standard VN800 shock. Happy drifting, CDD

Kow8rdr, It has been almost a year since my original post. I purchased a second hand dog bone and a couple of 12mm bushings for this project. Time goes by and other things come up that can put projects on the back burner. I have also had the good fortune to come across a Scootworks VN800 lowering dog bone that I plan to use  when time allows. I believe the measurements that I worked out would be correct but questioned my welding ability on such a critical suspension component. Sorry that I can't really answer your question. Happy drifting, CDD

Lucky, My 2006 800 Drifter has 2 wires connected to the factory original horn. One wire is brown with a black tracer and the other wire is black with a white tracer. Happy Drifting, CDD.

jeffeosso, Keep us posted. You may be doing some groundbreaking work for big folks that love the 800 Drifter. Happy drifting, CDD.

Jeffeosso, I was curious about your question and did some research on 800/900 shock specs.. My info. was gathered from Progressive suspension spec. sheets. The Progressive rear shock number for the 800 Drifter is 465-1148B, the number for the 900 standard is 465-1170B and the number for the 900 (1 inch lower ) is 465-1171B. Here are the specs. 465-1148B: extended length; 12.19 inches, compressed length; 10.37 inches, travel; 1.82 inches, rate lb./inches; 400/450. 465-1170B: extended length; 12.75 inches, compressed length; 10.38 inches, travel; 2.37 inches, rate lb./inches; 500/600. 465-1171B: extended length; 12.05 inches, compressed length; 10.38 inches, travel; 1.67 inches, rate lb./inches; 500/600.

I assume( and we all know what that does) that you are looking at OEM shocks, but I have to believe that the Progressive dimensions are the same. Spring rates may vary on the Progressive as opposed to OEM shock. No info. was provided on the spec. sheets as to shock diameters. Hope this helps in your decision making process. Happy drifting, CDD

Gregpaulc, I looked your 2000 800 Drifter up on Kawasakipartsnations web site. The parts schematic ( oil filter/oil pump) will show you the correct orientation of the screen and other parts in question. Hope this helps. Happy Drifting, CDD.

jack freeman, I have done just as you suggested and looked long and hard on e-bay for the dog bone; AKA " shock link, uni trak, tie rod and lower link". All Kawasaki VN800 motorcycles use the same dog bone. The trick is to find one from a newer year model with low miles for a reasonable price, in hopes that the needle bearings are in good shape. Thanks for your interest and help with this project.                    Happy Drifting CDD

Tfrank59,  I am thinking that moving the hole 3/16" would give me an oblong or egg shaped hole. I understand the metallurgy concern and have also thought about using a bushing and JB welding the excess hole area. As project progresses and info is gathered, I'll pass along knowledge gained. Thanks for the good luck.

I am wanting to lower my 800 Drifter 1" in the front and the rear. I have purchased the progressive front lowering springs for the front  and the progressive shock for the rear. The Scootworks lowering dog bone is no longer available and a request for info. on "who has one for sale" on this forum has lots of looks but no response. I have seen online a procedure to cut the dog bone, add some length and weld it back up. Adding 1/2" is supposed to lower the back aprox. 3"s.  Is my thinking flawed, If I figure that adding 1/4" would lower aprox. 1 1/2"s, then would adding 3/16" put me at the 1" drop that i'm looking for? I am considering not cutting the dog bone at all, re drilling the holes at the non bearing end of the dog bone and welding up the unused area of the former holes. Anyone with experience doing something like this or input on technique or safety issues, please advise.  A 1" drop is all that I need. Feet flat, flat on the ground at a stop light, no changing kick stand, no dragging floor boards and lower looks cool to me. Thanks in advance.                   Happy drifting, CDD

Tfrank59, Just out of curiosity I looked today and Amazon has the Hotcams HCSHIM02 for right at $65.00 and free shipping. I understand the philosophy of " if it ain't broke don't fix it" but as I stated earlier " peace of mind has value to me". Hope all goes well which ever way you decide to go.                  Happy Drifting, CDD

Tfrank59, I am by no means an expert motorcycle mechanic. I was an auto mechanic back in the day of points and condenser ignition systems. I think the video with the engine out of the bike best represents what needs to be done. I used video information like this along with a shop manual. A digital or dial caliper is a must along with feeler gauges. Perform the valve adjustment on a stone cold engine (sitting at least 8 hours after last run) to get the proper results. The rear valve cover seems like there is no way it will come off and out, but with some gentle wiggling and finesse it will. The cams do not have to come out. The rocker arms are side spring loaded and will slide to one side to allow valve shims to be removed. You will not know which shims you will need until you get in there and measure valve gaps as you engine sit now. I suggest a complete valve shim kit to save grief and aggravation down  the line. I used a kit made by "Hotcams"; part number HCSHIM02 that fits our 800 Drifter engines. Lots of shims left in the kit, but ready for the next time. Always glad to share any knowledge that I have. Hope this helps.                         Happy Drifting, CDD

Tfrank59, I had not considered the exhaust valves seating harder than the intake valves. Good point. My take is that  the spec is in thousandths of an inch, which seems minuscule, but can mean a lot in performance and longevity of an engine. I enjoy working on and getting to know my Drifter as much as riding her.

greenbarn, I know that it took me several leisurely hours but I am also a slow and methodical person when it comes to mechanics. My best advice is to tuck some clean shop rags into the open engine cavities below the rocker arms before you remove the rocker arms. The shims are oil sticky one moment and slippery as can be the next. This was one of the best tips I had gotten before I started the valve adjustment project.

I  checked and adjusted valve clearances on my 800 Drifter at 5000 miles. All were out of spec by a thousandth or two from the + or - allowable gap. Here is the interesting part, intake valve gaps were wide while exhaust valve gaps were tight. I assume that the exhaust valve stems must have stretched. A tighter than spec valve gap will not give you a tic or rattle indication that adjustment is needed. Our 800 engines are almost bullet proof, but I am a big fan of preventive maintenance. Peace of mind has value. My 2 cents.                   Happy Drifting, CDD

Hello fellow Drifters, I am replacing the tires on my Drifter and thought that I might also upgrade my rear shock in the process.  The part number for the rear shock, from Progressive for the Drifter 800, is 465-1148B. This is also the same number listed for the 800 A and B up to 2005. Progressive also offered Part number 465-1149 for the 800A that was a 1" lower shock. Here is my question. Does any one know if the 465-1149 will work correctly on the 800 Drifter? Thanks,CDD

Tfrank59, I just dug a little deeper into my files and found this. Dynatek Dyna 3000 # D3K2-1. I found this item just now on e-b_y for sale.

Tfrank59, Glad to hear that your bike is running stronger now. I have done the same upgrades to my 800 with the same results. There is one more bolt on upgrade that will enhance your bikes performance to the next level. It is a performance ignition module. The Dana 3000 series ignition # ZZ38146. I purchased mine in 2012 from J&P Cycles. I don't know if this item is still available. It was listed for the 800 Drifter only. No dyno info., but seat of the pants performance was very noticeable. Happy Drifting, CDD

dekesish, Go man go. Love me some chrome accents on our Drifters. Lots of polishing and difficult to keep clean and bright, but "Oh My" when she sparkles , it sure does make me smile. Happy Drifting, CDD

jimbo, I'm with you on the faux Indian look. If I had wanted an Indian, I would have bought one. I do appreciate that our Kawi. Drifters styling is a tribute and homage to the Indian cycles of the past, but I am also Kawi. Drifter proud. No disrespect to those that have Indianized their bikes on this forum. We all have our own way of expressing ourselves. A resto mod feel works for me. No kawasaki badges on my bike, but Vulcan Drifter badges front and center. Folks are always in awe of the beauty and styling of my 800 Drifter. Happy Drifting, CDD

Tfrank59, Fire and Steel made great looking chromed metal turn signal visors. Two versions were made; single screw lens was part# K53020-133A, two screw lens was part# K53020-117A. * NOTE: Both look the same but are not interchangeable. The Fire and Steel accessories for our bikes are getting harder and harder to find, but keep an eye on e-b_y and they eventually  show up. If you find the 117As buy them quick because they won't last long. Happy Drifting, CDD