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1 - Crack the throttle (like a hoon) in 3rd at about 60K/35MPH . If it takes a second for acceleration to catch up - you have worn clutch plates .

2 - Check this post . rear spark plug on right side of motorcycle, forward spark plug on left . You will see a recessed ("23 mm") hex plug . remove spark plug and check for groove in each aluminum tunnel . This will tell you the cam chains are worn and rubbing thru .

3 - If mechanically minded, you can find articles in this forum to replace the Cam chain tensioners -  and replace the convex/ concave plates in the clutch - these wear first -   otherwise refer previous answer

https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php/board,124.0.html

Sorry to hear your woes, OR Seedman .

Thanks for all your help & contributions over the years  .

Welcome d0nniedark0

Have fitted 2003 Classic 1600 engine into my Drifter .
Dis-assembling old engine - parts to good home for cost of postage .

Mechanic - Work Performed :
Swapped engine top covers and rear oil feed hose and rerouted as per 1999 model.
Swapped wiring to oil light and neutral switch .
Removed alternator covers and swapped stator, pickup coils and gearshift shaft .
Fitted earlier throttle body to later engine .
Refitted later engine to 99 bike .
Flushed out radiator and bled air from system .
Oil and filter changed .
End of work :

At this point he had used the (black plastic strip) left engine cover and gearshift shaft from the 1500 (109 to 99 mm apprx) so the shaft was free to move . The 1600 still had the right chrome engine cover .
I was tempted to swap the 1500 right cover in, to retain the old '99 look - engine covers and engine top covers .

But the missus preferred the chrome look .

I bent the heel shift about 5mm to the East in a vice , using an old telescopic fork as a lever. This mean when the down shift is used the heel doesn't hit up against the chrome cover.

If you were electrically competent you could change the connectors instead of the parts .

I took the taillight from the Classic frame (after painting it black) and swapped the short connector over .

The engine is bloody heavy - 2 men struggle with it .

If you were electrically competent you could change the connectors instead of the parts  - this refers to the single 1500 (external stator)       being fitted back because the 1500 electrical connectors is square and 1600 is round . (1600 has a 2nd internal stator which is now inert)

Beautiful colour mix , she IS gorgeous .

Creating a bike that is uniquely yours via homemade parts / modifications, as opposed to simply off the shelf is it's own reward every time you look at it .

I have a 1500 , so have rarely browsed the 800 section .

It has been a pleasure to see your video & pics .

Best regards from Oz

Anyone know of a Drifter engine for sale , or even an EFI VN1500 , or 1600 EFI
Thanks

Excellent idea - the "T board" and having the bike higher .

I tag all electrical connectors (and still take photos) .

I'll  start with removing exhausts , draining radiator and moving / removing , shaft-drive disconnect then connector bolts , unbolt lower right frame section, lower the engine, THEN remove manifold & other attached hoses .

Will take Photos as I go .

Thanks ,
"was having a little Seniors 'lack of confidence' moment , but am back on track now"

Thanks OR Seedman ,

That's very definitive .

I stripped it to the bare frame (had frame sand blasted and repainted , along with all black bits over a decade ago) . So, I wasn't looking at doing it the quickest way then .

I stripped from the top down , but saw a photo here of someone who had removed the 4 bolts from the manifold or the regulator and lowered the engine . The tank was off , but I can't remember how much more they had taken off up top .

Guess I will have to find out , just like to do the shortest way when possible .

I may be able to get a J1 engine with 61,000K (38000 miles) , so that will be the way to go - given your input .

Thanks heaps

Hoping it might be easier than taking the engine out of both . Clymer says remove everything including the horns ..

Hi chief ,

I expect you have no control over the content of what advertisng Pop-ups display  when we access this site - But

If I may issue a word of warning -

"MyIQ" popped up and I did their test & paid .99c to get the result .
Hidden in the process was a "Supposed" subscription (monthly or weekly, I am not sure yet) which I did not want AND did not subscribe to.

A few days later a charge for $29.99 appeared on my account . Paypal blocked future charges & refunded me the $29.99 . Thank god I did it thru them , instead of direct to my card .

This mob (MyIQ) is a scammer , using subterfuge and slight of hand to remain barely legal. I subsequently found from surfing that their refund site just sits there and twirls - i.e. it is in a loop until you give up .

BE WARNED .

Drifter-Paul - Senior Member & not usually scam-able .

P.S. This is not a promo for Paypal - any reliable intermediary will do , and I have no affiliation with any of them .

When I put V & H Nomad pipes with 100mm round mufflers on my '99 , I kept the same ground clearance to the bottom of the muffler .

However they now scrape on roundabouts and I have to periodically replace the 2 outside Allen key retainer nuts .

The original right muffler being Oval didn't scrape at the 3:00-5:00 o'clock position, but the arc of the round muffler does,  because it is closer to the ground - in the US it would be my left muffler scraping on roundabouts.

Just a heads up .     

My '99 Drifter has done the big end .
I am looking at a 2003 Classic, and swapping the Drifter parts , fenders , tank , solo seat .
I found a thread on this in the forum , but can't locate it again .
Not in Mods .
Anyone able to supply the thread ?
Thanks heaps .
P.S.
I'm thinking of using the '99 swingarm to retain the fender mount points & swapping the '99 front forks into the Classic for the same reason .

I'm happy to be corrected . Have only seen 1999s in OZ, and made an assumption about the 20 l from photos .

Mea Culpa

Thanks Guys,

Saves a lot of time going to fiche parts which aren't really proof anyway .

And expands my range of choice .

My Big End is stuffed . Will replace it with another VN 1500 or 1600 .

Has anyone documented 'removing the engine '?

I can't find it in my searches here , but I remember a picture where someone had .

Thanks Paul .   

Those "gold" flecks are brass from the white-metal ring that goes between the crankshaft and the con rod .

Rather than take the engine apart , just Cut the oil filter open , remove the paper filter and fan it out .

What year is your bike ?? I am assuming '99 - '00  (J1 or J2) from your Profile photo .

The '99 & '00 have it external to the 16 litre tank and below the upper twin frame tubes .

Simple enough - 1/2 hr for 2 people , 3/4 hr one person & protective rags .

Have you purchased a Clymers or Haynes manual , I use that and "Ron Ayers motorcycle spare parts" microfiche .

For 2001 plus , the filter is inside the 20 l plastic tank - forward of the fuel pump .

This is a stupid place for it, and it is a longer job , but again simple tools + patience easing the assembly out of the tank .

The speedo console surround has a tongue on it which fits into a slot in the frame , push forward 1" to remove .

Cleaning involve flushing out from both sides until you have clean kero flowing out .

Is my Big End shot ? After dying in 4th (several times) trying to get up to highway speed, I used 3rd to get to a nearby town and made a few short trips there . Got trailed home . After a week , I started her again & got terrible clunk clunk/ clank clank type noises from down low . Hit the kill switch . She has 122,00 Miles and I put camshaft tensioner extenders in 4500 Miles ago - Pulled the camshaft/sparkplug tunnels - no scouring .

Good. Have just got back from 10 weeks traveling & camping in Central & Eastern Queensland -

that explains the mystery Credit  .

Hi Chief,

Did you get the 1500 J1 Tank emblems , I sent you back in July ?

If not , I will hit up Australia Post to get them back .

thanks Drifter-Paul

Easy solution

change your surgeon
change your wife 

On a more serious note , I feel for you - we do take longer to heal as we reach "advanced" middle age . It's a bummer - but at least better than the alternative 

Thank you for your posts over the years . This is a wonderful Forum - helpful , knowledgeable and civil - you have contributed a large part of that  .

I'm glad you will continue to interact , all the best for the future .   

This bypasses the Service Manual method of removing console / tank / throttle assembly & manifold to remove the left side tensioner .

Start with the right side tensioner . Remove as per Snake / Gadget's post in this forum .

Do NOT re-fit it , yet .

Remove the banjo bolt securing the two external oil lines located under the tensioner hole - have a tissue handy for the few drips .

On the left side remove  the dogbowl (1 bolt) , air filter, plastic backing plate (2 +1),  metal U bracket  (2).

Move the oil lines out of the way .

Now you will need a 30mm x 100mm 5mm Allen key to access the inner bolt & then the outer .

Rotate the tensioner assembly 30 degrees clockwise and slip it out – be patient , NO force is necessary .

Add extenders to both units , re-fit (L) , Banjo bolt, then (R) as per other post .

When doing the right side one, it is easier to access the inner 5 mm bolt by putting your hand thru the frame from the left .

Re-assemble left side components .

The paper gaskets have 6mm bolt holes & A 21.5mm central hole . I used Molybedenum Disulfide
to smear both sides of my handmade replacements !

Afraid that was the case Troll . Thanks for confirming it wasn't just me .

Thanks Fab, the Nomad must have the external oil lines located differently - can't get to the Drifter ('99) tensioner like that .

Have made a new post detailing my solution .

I have searched Mods & 1500 forums but haven't found the answer - vague memory of someone cutting out the tunnel altogether and adding a different air filter system !

Have done the Gadget / Chuckster extender for the right side cam tensioner .

Now starting on the left . I have unscrewed the right end of the tunnel . The tunnel is exposed / free on  the left but I can only wiggle it , doesn't seem to want to pull through !!

Wasn't a problem when I stripped down to the bare frame in 2012 – but I'm not doing that again .

Trying to escape to Queensland for OZ winter , damn .

The '99 & '00 were blacked out (minimal chrome)- black painted forks , rear shocks, headlight, tank console , rear tail light , side covers , with black-chrome handlebars .

Subsequent models went for the more chromed look - bloody pagans (    ) .

I can't expand your Profile photo to get a better look, but yes, it is a J 

Mine is Australian issue with hard-wired headlight (only difference I can identify), but even though I stripped it down to the bare frame in 2011-12 , I can not for the life of me recognise the configuration in your photo (which I can enlarge).

Maybe it is a peculiarity of the Canadian (or Californian) version ?

As a bye the bye , the high hose connection to the radiator has for years leaked a little (this is not uncommon) - I just keep the reservior topped up .

Sorry I can't be more help .

Is this a J model '99 or '00 - Black chrome handlebars, fork covers , indicators .?

I'm sitting in the garage and can't visualise where that is !!!