Does anyone know if there are any compatability issues with ECM's from 1500 Nomads or Vulcans to the 1500 Drifter? I'm pretty sure mine is smoked and I can't decide which one on Ebay to buy. I have a NO START condition with no fuel, good fuel in the tank, pump works, FI lights, Fuses intact, lights all light up and starter whirls it over great. WILL fire on a shot of starter fluid. I'm not that well versed on drawing out codes, tho I have looked at the manual. I just don't like the idea of poking wires to batteries and connections that might do more damage. I hate electrical stuff!!!! From what I've read here, I'm kind of headed in the right direction(I hope) unless someone thinks otherwise. I'm all ears.................Thanks
getting fuel aft of fuel filter?
You need to see if the injectors are actually pulsing. You need a thing called a 'noid light. DO not use a test light across the terminals, you will damage the ECM quaddriver.
If you look up the ECU part numbers for a Drifter, a Nomad and Classic, you'll probably find they're different, if not - then they're 100% compatible (pretty sure you'll find they're different though). Still might work even if the part number is different but it would be risky trying it without some research (as in: what do each of the ECU pins connect to)
Quote from: Bucko on June 29, 2018, 23:44:27 PM
If you look up the ECU part numbers for a Drifter, a Nomad and Classic, you'll probably find they're different, if not - then they're 100% compatible (pretty sure you'll find they're different though). Still might work even if the part number is different but it would be risky trying it without some research (as in: what do each of the ECU pins connect to)
They will all be different, since they all have model specific programming in them. The Mean Streak will probably be the least compatible, but the 1500 Nomad EFI will probably work. Drifter specific ones are going to bring a premium price, but the others won't All you really need is to check the wiring connections and be sure the same wires do the same things for each installation.
Where do I find this "Noid Light" and how is it used?, also what are some sources for actual Drifter ECM's?
Auto parts stores have the noid light. They are specific to each plug style, so you will need to try and figure out which one you need. I used to be in the "business" and I still have a set of 10 of them, all different. You disconnect the injector plug from the injector and plug in the light. Turn the engine over, and watch to see if it flashes. If it flashes, then the computer is controlling the injector, if it doesn't , then the computer quaddriver is bad, or the wiring harness has a problem. Partzilla has the computer for $740
If I de-power the fuel controller, without removing the scotch-lok connectors will that return the ECM to an issued condition?
Maybe. The big problem with these controllers is that the scotch locks break the wires and allow corrosion inside the harness. We are talking VERY LOW AMPERAGE here...normally .5 or less @12 V. Corrosion inside the harness will really mess things up.
Well, I have to do something, otherwise I've got nothing but a big lump of steel and plastic to look at. I hate this crap when it happens. 3 years, not a hint of trouble or a hiccup from the motor. 10,000 miles
This is one of the reasons I switched to Japanese bikes from Harleys. One hardly ever has problems like this from a Japanese bike, while I spent more time than I can count working on Harleys just to keep them on the road. Still own one and ride it quite a bit, but age and laziness make me ride the rice burners most of the time. Plus, you turn the key, push the button, and go...............
Bob, you have an aftermarket fuel controller??? If so, I would try unhooking it to see if it fixes the problem--- I've heard of more than one that caused a bike to not start.
Yes, I have a FI2000 Cobra Fuel Controller.......it was installed when I bought the bike. No problems with it........until now if it proves to be the problem. Will keep you all posted. Thanks for all the help and advice.
I just want to comment on how helpful and knowledgeable everyone here seems to be. I knew I could come here and get straight answers and advice with no BS. Thanks again all................ ;)
Went out this morning with a kinda fresh battery, installed same, disconnected the fuel controller and turned it over. Viola, sort of. I got an engine pop!. Now considering I couldn't even ger a whiff of gas.....this is a step in right direction. I think some of my problem is the battery. Just not enough juice to excite the ECM to work fully. Can anyone recommend a battery they know to have the juice to do the job?
Battery condition is a BIG factor for the 1500 to start. If it doesn't really crank over good, it seems to not get enough current to run the fuel injection. You could try charging the battery for a bit, to see if this make it start.
Yuasa is a popular battery. I use Interstate because I have a good source. I've heard folks on the forum that have had good luck with what I would call "economy" batteries from Ebay/Amazon.
Yea, I'm going to add a 12 volt source to the freshly charged battery and see what happens. Most likely will jump off my truck, engine off. I've been using a Fleet Farm battery(Roadrunner) for the last 2years and seemed to work ok, but maybe this las winter was the killer for it.
Well, tried a new Interstate 12 volt Battery, 270 CCA..................no luck. Still fires right off with a fog of starting fluid in the throttle bodies, but won't draw any fuel. Didn't want to have to take the tank off and all that but I guess that is the next course of action and check to see if there are any fuel blockages.
when you turn on the key/ignition, do you hear the fuel pump prime up for a couple of seconds? if not, then you may be looking at a bad fuel pump in the tank....just a thought....
You know you can get the ECU to do a self diagnosis. It will tell you if there are problems with various sensors, pickup/ignition coils, injectors and fuel pump.
https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/ECUFaultCodes.html
I sent you a pm. I might be able to help you out with an Ecm or other parts if needed.
The fuel pump cycles for the requisite 2-3 seconds when I turn the key on. The FI Light does not stay on after initial startup mode. The only thing that stays lit is the oil light, after the engine cranks, so apparently there are no problems with the DFI, or so my manual says. I grounded terminal 37 to the battery ground and got no codes or flashes of any kind. ??????
Have you checked for injection pulses yet?
Troll, no I haven't. I would think if it run on a spray of ether mist that they are working..........or am I wrong?
(https://s15.postimg.cc/wx7k0f55j/fuel_pressure_check.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wx7k0f55j/)