I've never used a K & N on my bikes, mostly because of cost, but how big a deal is it on performance with a drifter 800? I have custom exhaust and have rejetted my carb, so I guess the only thing I haven't done is the air filter mod or even just replacing the stock element with a K & N. The cost difference is pretty significant to me: stock $20, K & N $53.
I can only say that I really like my K&N air filter. I am running Roadhouse exhaust, no mods to air box or carb. The K&N filter is really simple to take out wash in soapy water rinse it under a gentle spray of running water, let it dry overnight and spray it with a really light film of oil, let dry and you are ready to ride again, and they last a long time.
I have had and currently do have K&Ns in almost (they don't make a filter for the W-650) every vehicle I own. There is no comparison between a paper filter and one that lets the engine breath. I saw a 10 hp difference on a dyno run of my 98" shovel head, going from a hi-pro foam to a K&N...Your engine WILL run leaner with a K&N than with a paper filter....so you may need to re-jet or raise the needle. The big thing is that if you are currently running on the rich side of perfect, it should correct that for you. They will last forever, and the filtration is far superior to a stock filter. A trip through the Utah red rock deserts proved that to me....red dust in everything, but not a speck inside the filter.....
After Rat man and Troll endorsements and info how can you not go buy a K&N filter after reading their reviews. Good stuff.
Quote from: Troll on February 19, 2017, 15:05:06 PM
I have had and currently do have K&Ns in almost (they don't make a filter for the W-650) every vehicle I own. There is no comparison between a paper filter and one that lets the engine breath. I saw a 10 hp difference on a dyno run of my 98" shovel head, going from a hi-pro foam to a K&N...Your engine WILL run leaner with a K&N than with a paper filter....so you may need to re-jet or raise the needle. The big thing is that if you are currently running on the rich side of perfect, it should correct that for you. They will last forever, and the filtration is far superior to a stock filter. A trip through the Utah red rock deserts proved that to me....red dust in everything, but not a speck inside the filter.....
yep, you got me there. guess I'll pony up the 53$ and get one. at least it lasts a long time.
okay, just ordered a K & N and to my surprise got it for $45 (not 53) with free shipping. 8)
Just remember to get the K&N oil to prime it.......
Does it have to be their name brand oil or can I use another brand air filter oil
I am not going to say don't see why not, but I bought theirs just because it was on sale....lol...and I bought the big can and shared it.....
Funny I just went out in the garage poking around and I found a spray bottle of K & N air filter cleaner, and I thought I had some of their oil – now I'm thinking back a few bikes ago I think I had a K&N foam filter for my KTM. If it wasn't K&N oil I used it was something I purchased at like AutoZone and it did the job just fine.
Quote from: CDNRatMan on February 22, 2017, 12:17:09 PM
Just remember to get the K&N oil to prime it.......
OK now I'm confused because I bought the K&N oil, and today my filter showed up and in the instructions it says nothing about pre-oiling it. what's up with that?
Ok not sure of that......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g9cynpmNQI
the only way I deviate from this is that I use Dawn dish soap to clean my air filter and then let it dry and then use the oil and mine is blue..lol....
OK Ratman, that's a really good YouTube and it shows that recharging or in my case pre-oiling the new filter isn't going to restrict airflow so I'm gonna go ahead and do it. Thanks a lot.
Quote from: Troll on February 19, 2017, 15:05:06 PM
I have had and currently do have K&Ns in almost (they don't make a filter for the W-650) every vehicle I own. There is no comparison between a paper filter and one that lets the engine breath. I saw a 10 hp difference on a dyno run of my 98" shovel head, going from a hi-pro foam to a K&N...Your engine WILL run leaner with a K&N than with a paper filter....so you may need to re-jet or raise the needle. The big thing is that if you are currently running on the rich side of perfect, it should correct that for you. They will last forever, and the filtration is far superior to a stock filter. A trip through the Utah red rock deserts proved that to me....red dust in everything, but not a speck inside the filter.....
Well I got the K&N filter in there and now the thing doesn't want to rev above about 3500-- it just breaks up, does that mean it's too lean? It must be what you said I've got to adjust the needle. With the Dino jet kit I got a bunch of spacers for the needle – should I put a couple of those under there or maybe just change the e-clip setting higher? When I installed the Dino jet kit last year I adjusted my screw setting from the stock setting which was one and three-quarter turns out to two turns. Should I adjust that now too? Thanks for whatever help you can give me
Okay here's what I did I took out the K&N Filter put the air filter cover back on and started the bike up and took a ride and it ran perfect. So what I've concluded is the K&N was suffocating my bike. So what I did is washed all the oil out of it and now I'm letting it dry. Something tells me it was pre oiled and then I put oil on top of oil and that was mistake. I'll let you know how it goes after the thing dries out and I put the k&n filter back in and I try riding the bike again
Well perhaps that is why it said nothing of putting oil on yours because it was done for you. I know mine was white and I was told to oil it.....
Yeah, and if that's how new ones come--or maybe just mine?--there should have been a clear statement in the directions to the effect that "this filter has been pre-oiled at the factory, so do not add oil to it...yada yada" If I'm correct, now mine should need to be oiled, as I've washed out not only the factory oil but also my extra oil, so in order to trap dust and crap it's going to need something on there. I'm going to try running it "plain" first and see if the bike performs like it should; afterwards then (assuming it's all good), I'll add a coat of new oil.
Tfrank I can only say that I bought my filter new, put the oil on, let the oil dry over night. Since I have been using the K&N product I have never had any issues with the bike. I am a firm believer in the K&N brand and product.
Fair enough. I guess for me the jury's out whether this filter is going to be an improvement. I'll get out in the next day or so and see see how she performs.
It might just be a bit of tweaking needed, you have a non stock set of pipes correct, and you have made some mods to the carb, so now it is just time to dial it all in and get everything sync'ed to what you need.
Yes sir that's right. Truth is I don't feel like getting into my carb to tweak it because it was dialed in spot on for a paper air filter ;D. I'll keep you guys posted
Tfank59: a little in your court myself....if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm a "only change one thing at a time" guy.
I'm running a stock carb with a baffled to my satisfaction, roadhouse exhaust....starts right, runs right, good mileage, no flat spots or stumbles. My only other indicator is medium gray internal exhaust pipe color (since my local dealer has no ability to analyze the exhaust in any detail...to my surprise). So I'm happy with it the way it is, considering most of the discussion on the forum is how lean it will run with the K&N
Ratman: You seem to be the only with a stock carb running a K&N...and not having issues.
That said, I've had K&Ns on everything else over the years. So, I just might throw it on there for awhile and see if it makes any difference. Will keep the forum posted.
kw I switched over to the K&N after listening to Mr.s Troll and Greenbarn. Both gentlemen have ridden more than a few miles with me and can say I have not had any issues.
My local kaw mechanic has checked my plugs and my engine twice for me, and said that everything is within the range I want it to be. I also have a unmodified Roadhouse exhaust on my bike, but that has been the only change made to the bike since the PO had it. Now he had the pipes installed at the dealer in Ottawa, he never said anything to me about any mods done to the carb, and I have never taken it apart as it has been running just fine.
My front plug was nice and tan, the rear plug was a shade darker than the tan colour you want but not enough to mess with.
Okay, I re-oiled the K&N and put it in and ran the bike. Runs like a scalded dog all throughout the RPM range. No need to adjust the carb as far as I can tell. check her out:
https://youtu.be/yLfuH-vIaX4
So the earlier malfunction must have been due to me oiling an already-oiled filter.
::) pheeew really glad we solved that one......lol......looks and sounds really nice.
Yep she's running great and thanks for all your help.
Well I'm resurrecting an old thread here but I just want to mention that this bike of mine is really peppy now. I didn't think the K&N Filter would make much difference I didn't think tuning the exhaust would make much difference but boy am I surprised. I was actually thinking yesterday is it just me that I'm finally learning how to ride the thing after 10K? It really has a lot of get up and go throughout the whole speed range of the motor. I couldn't be happier with performance.
When I bought my Drifter, the local mechanic, who is highly regarded in the trade in this area, he told me that the Drifter is not a H-D engine or bike, the rpm has to be at 1000 rpms to run correctly, and he said also that the engine runs better at higher rpms than being lugged around. I really wish I had had my digital rpm gauge prior to my sprocket swap and then afterwards so I could see the difference, but I will have to see where the bike sounds the best this summer.....and take notes.....
So which digital RPM gauge did you end up getting? Was it the one that I posted the tto
yes it was.....
Well I'm glad that's working out for you. I know it makes a huge difference for me to be able to see a tachometer while I'm riding pretty much essential equipment in my opinion.
It works great, but I listen to the engine to shift by, at times I like to see where I can take it.......
Tfrank59, Glad to hear that your bike is running stronger now. I have done the same upgrades to my 800 with the same results. There is one more bolt on upgrade that will enhance your bikes performance to the next level. It is a performance ignition module. The Dana 3000 series ignition # ZZ38146. I purchased mine in 2012 from J&P Cycles. I don't know if this item is still available. It was listed for the 800 Drifter only. No dyno info., but seat of the pants performance was very noticeable. Happy Drifting, CDD
Tfrank59, I just dug a little deeper into my files and found this. Dynatek Dyna 3000 # D3K2-1. I found this item just now on e-b_y for sale.
That would be a nice upgrade but it looks to be too rich for my budget unfortunately