When using my throttle friction lock, I've noticed a handlebar wobble at 60 kph , not there at 40, 50 70, ,80 or 110 kph (our various speed limits - school zone, builtup area, etc). This is when i've taken my hands off the handlebars. I put my hands back before it goes to a tankslapper. Sometimes I have to take my gloves off to relieve carpal tunnel pain or adjust a flapping helmet strap. Tyre pressures are correct. Swing arm bearings replaced 10,000 k ago.
I'm thinking, in order of ease/cost
1 - jack the front wheel up and check free play
2 - remove front wheel and have wheel balance check done
3 - check/replace steering head bearings
What are the symptoms for worn steering bearings ? Do they start at just one speed ??? Any other suggestions. Thanks :-\
what kind of tire do you have? I had a similar issue with both my W-650 and my 1500 Drifter at the same speed. I replaced the front tire on the W from a Metzeler ME-33 to a Continental Conti attack and the problem disappeared. I replaced the worn out Michelin Commander on the Drifter with a Metzeler ME888 and the problem disappeared, as well.
Quote from: drifter-paul on November 03, 2016, 20:49:19 PM
When using my throttle friction lock, I've noticed a handlebar wobble at 60 kph , not there at 40, 50 70, ,80 or 110 kph (our various speed limits - school zone, builtup area, etc). This is when i've taken my hands off the handlebars. I put my hands back before it goes to a tankslapper. Sometimes I have to take my gloves off to relieve carpal tunnel pain or adjust a flapping helmet strap. Tyre pressures are correct. Swing arm bearings replaced 10,000 k ago.
I'm thinking, in order of ease/cost
1 - jack the front wheel up and check free play
2 - remove front wheel and have wheel balance check done
3 - check/replace steering head bearings
What are the symptoms for worn steering bearings ? Do they start at just one speed ??? Any other suggestions. Thanks :-\
i had a similar problem at 60-80kph...checked all the things you've listed.
i had the wheels trued and the wobble disappeared...however it felt like i was riding a horse. ended up changing the tires to bridgestone (from michelin commander II's) and viola problem gone.
hope you find it!
How many miles are on the tires? Vulcan's are known for this; as the tires wear it often happens. Some say it's the angle of the front forks that causes the tires to wear in a slight cupping pattern, but you can feel it in the tire if you run your hand around the tread. It's subtle, but it's there. Changing out the tires is the fix.
Any updates. Like PC and most said prob tires.
This is a good time and good measure to do the Zerk fitting mod by adding one to your steering bearing area.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/zerkfitting.html
Ditto on the tire most likey. Neck bearing is more likely to feel weird in corners.
Quote from: pcarrell on November 05, 2016, 22:40:09 PM
How many miles are on the tires? Vulcan's are known for this; as the tires wear it often happens. Some say it's the angle of the front forks that causes the tires to wear in a slight cupping pattern, but you can feel it in the tire if you run your hand around the tread. It's subtle, but it's there. Changing out the tires is the fix.
At my inspection last month, the tech said the tires had the cupping going on but, technically he couldn't fail them. The wobble I had before was due to the stem bearing. After having that changed out,k it was good to go.
Been in the bush for a while.
Thanks for the comments, guys. Still monitoring it, I think it may be getting wider spread.
Will update this post, when I get it resolved.
:)
Run yer hand over the front tire, and see if there are any cupping or irregular wear.
Thanks Greenbank/everyone. I blame the cupping on all the roundabouts we (AU) now have, as it is more distinct on the right side, as the tyres wear.
The tyres are Bridgestone Exedra , same as I always run, except for one early experiment with Mitchelin.
These tyres only have less than 2000 miles on them. The bearings were checked and greased about 20,000 miles age.
Will try to get out somewhere quite and test on some corners.
I put on a zerk fitting on my California Moto Guzzi - then sold it ::)
The shake is getting more pronounced or I'm maybe just more conscious of it. Bearings are $50 US each, plus the now exorbitant shipping since the Free Trade Agreement >:(
Anyone used non EOM, I doubt they are actually made by Kawasaki ??
The "ALL Balls" kit is $40 for the whole thing. Includes new seals. Put them in @ 50,000 or so, now I have 110,000 with no problems
Thanks Troll,
Do you have their part number, I could only get up wheel bearings for the Drifter when I did a search on them ?
http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1031.html
$44...fits all vulcans
Thanks Troll,
The postage from US is an additional $44-49.
I can get them from All Balls New Zealand (appears Aus may not have them).
;D
I got my bearings/races & oil seals top and bottom.
I have been using a Clymers 1996-98 classic 1500 manual successfully for my maintenance so far. They suggest a wooden stick to knock the races out.
The Drifter races have about a 1/2 millimeter lip (1/50 "). I got the lower out by using a Brass rod pre-hit with a hammer until I got a shoulder on it. This managed to just catch the lip and we tapped until the shoulder sheared off the rod head, re-shouldered the rod, and repeated, until very gradually it worked out - Yep , it was worn out.
Have started on the upper race (more awkward), but only get 1 mm so far - fraction of a mill at a time, North /south/east/west tapping of course. Taken 6 hours so far.
Who has done this without special tools ? There must be an easier way. :-\
Top race out at last, used brass rod & dolly to put new races & seal in - easy peasy (Top Oil-seal ordered by part number as per fiche was not correct part, I think it is actually the one for the rear axle). - NOTE for others buying parts - the top seal doesn't need replacing, however the bottom one will probably be butchered getting the bottom race off.
Races were shot - so happy to have done that.
No play in forks, no play in front wheel, no cupping on tyre , but I still have a wiggle.
Will check rear wheel & swingarm bearings for play next and then rubber engine mount tension.
You may have heard , we are getting a bit of rain/hurricane on the East coast. The blinkers had condensation visible on the lenses after being out in the weather unintentionally, so I took them apart - copious water dripped out, and the springs jammed so couldn't twist the bulbs back in. Spent Saturday arvo with a few beers and sandpapering & waterproofing the indicators - gave my poor back a rest after tapping the upper races out (2 days effort).
Will post a verbal description of methodology use for the bearing job, in a few days when I resolve the wobble issue. :'(
I powder coated my rims and hubs a few years ago and when I did I made a video describing how I did it.
I had to pull the bearings before powder coating. I didn't see your post until today or I would have posted sooner.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_GKXKTCNQo&t=190s
Quote from: RockinRonny on April 08, 2017, 10:58:19 AM
I powder coated my rims and hubs a few years ago and when I did I made a video describing how I did it.
I had to pull the bearings before powder coating. I didn't see your post until today or I would have posted sooner.
RockinRonny, I believe he is referring to the steering neck bearings. Great video on the wheels BTW. All of your videos are very informative and professionally done.
8) that's my Uncle Ronny in Oshawa.........but wait till Uncle Bob gets involved......
Sorry! :P