This is my last hope / shot in the dark before I have to spend money and tow my 2001 1500 to a mechanic. I have limited electrical knowledge.
My bike back in July after washing it very well had a Ignition Coil bad code showing on the FI light and confirmed by ECU. Around the same time my tank and fenders where coming off and going to the painters shop for appt.
Since I had the bike stripped down decided this was best time to fix bad coil. After price shock paid OEM $250+ for Left and Right coils that come with wires and bought new plug boots. SO all those parts new. New Spark plugs checked gap and all fine. Took my time since I had plenty of it and stalled all the parts with new.
My painter was severely late and changed completion date 4 times. Finally Oct 5th got all parts back.
Installed tires/rims and gas tank with new gas and thought its ready to go.
**I went to start bike and all electrical was working, battery has been on tender since July full charge, pulled choke out and nothing but crank, crank, crank. Tried different ways on and off. Only cranks.
**No FI light, It comes on when key turned on and goes off. After cranking FI light still off.
**I pulled spark plugs and all look new. Not flooded. I then did a spark test if I did it right and took one plug out left side and inserted in spark plug boot and had tip touching engine casing and NO Spark. Tried it toughing chrome top on engine and NO Spark. (The engine is painted black so not sure if that would work for test but wire is only so long. Also tried on chrome cover and no spark). After checking All four the same way and no spark.
**All sparked plugs gapped and all were dry. Which not knowing for sure thought was odd after several on and off attempts to start bike during a hour time span.
**Next I checked All fuses and there all fine.
**Next I pulled tank off again (gas in both bike lines and my three vent lines have no blockages) All tank and bike hoses and connectors were tapped off when I removed tank for painter and removed all tape doing reinstall.
I checked left and right coils and all the wiring snug. Both coils have two electrical tab connectors and the bike red wire with green stripe going to coil blue tab and the bikes black wire going to black tab on both. I would of changed them out exactly like the old ones were setup.
**After looking over bike, I do not see any other loose wires. Wanted to post in case someone has anything that might help. I don't know what else I can do or check and will have to get it to a mechanic soon.
Thanks In advance,
Anthony
fuel pump not working? ..do you hear it when you turn key on?
Yes the fuel pump always turns on when the key is turned
The FI light should stay on until the bike starts...check that fuse mentioned in this thread.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=18326.0
Thumb kill switch on?
No spark points to an electrical problem to me.
Test each fuse, don't just look at it, some can burn and still look perfect.
Did you install the tip over switch at the rear tank mount correctly?
Do you have a multi-meter to check the electrical system?
if so, check voltage/resistance to the coils, through the coils, and to the spark plug caps.
Do you have the shop manual that gives the specs and instructions for where/how to check?
I have the Haynes (?) manual and it has quite a bit of diagnostic information.
Even new parts can be defective unfortunately.
Quote from: JagLite on October 06, 2016, 12:19:31 PM
Did you install the tip over switch at the rear tank mount correctly? I am not sure what or where thats at. I don't see anything at the rear gas tank mount........
I have a 2001 so maybe its located somewhere else?
Quote from: Trall on October 06, 2016, 12:36:41 PM
I just checked and found the tip over switch. It was never moved only the gas tank. The tip over switch is in front of the battery box and just under the front washer bolt for the seat to slide into. The bottom gas tank bolt is in front of seat washer bolt so the tip over switch was always in the same spot.
I tried to start the bike again and after a third try and about to give up it started for about 10 seconds and died, tried again and it started for 10 seconds and the FI light stayed ON but died. I tried to start it again and FI light still ON and died after 10 seconds. Tried to start again and battery stopped trying to crank. Its seems about dead. Electrical still turns on.
Its a unknown age on battery and since I just got bike it the one part thats not new.
I went to run a jumper wire from ECU to neg battery term. and count the flashes for a code but after removing battery to pull out ECU and then reconnecting battery the FI light reset and is off again from removing the battery I guess. When you turn key on it lights up and goes out.
I can only get a few cranks on battery now and its dead.
So I am going to get a new battery today and see what happens after that.........
Oh, ho!
Bad battery is probably the problem.
My Honda VTX1800 always started and ran fine until one day, it only cranked over but would not start, not even fire a pop.
I spent a lot of time chasing possible failures and searching online for answers.
Most online posters agreed it was probably a dead ECU.
Before spending hundreds on a new ECU I bought a new battery.
It cranked over just as quickly as the old battery...
But now it starts right up.
Why? I dunno.
But it must have been not enough juice to spark even though enough to crank.
Hopefully a new, fully charged battery will solve the problem for you too.
I installed new Yausa battery and only cranks. Not sure. After I took gas tank off for 2nd time today and checked everything connected so I am at a lost. I checked plugs again and three looked dry and one tip was wet with gas.
From my spark plug test from yesterday I don't think checked for spark or anything since the engine is painted and no bare metal to get a ground. Touching chrome engine cover did not do anything but again not bare metal so don't think thats a good ground. IDK.
Then again engine started earlier today a few times for 10 seconds or less but would not stay started. Tried to give it gas with the throttle and just wanted to die. Then only would crank again and not start and old battery drained from trying.
Right now put tender on new battery to charge up again.
Quote from: Pilgrim on October 06, 2016, 11:33:53 AM
The FI light should stay on until the bike starts...check that fuse mentioned in this thread.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=18326.0
My FI light comes on when I turn the key on and after a few seconds it goes out with the gas and coolant lights. The only light on is the oil light. When I try and start it goes out as it cranks.
I checked the tread but I checked the DFI main fuse. I actually just changed it with a new one since I checked it and its probably from 2001.
Since my FI does NOT stay on does that mean something or point to the problem???????????
I have a mechanic lined up but not until next Wednesday. The local dealer is booking three weeks out.
SO I have a newly painted beautiful Drifter just parked in the garage........ :(
I was wrong about the FI light in my earlier post, it's the oil light that stays on until the engine starts. On my 2001 the FI light comes on until the fuel pump cycles and then goes out.
Don't know man..when you hooked the fuel line to the tank did you hear a click.
Sure sounds like it is fuel starved.
Quote from: Pilgrim on October 06, 2016, 18:40:36 PM
I was wrong about the FI light in my earlier post, it's the oil light that stays on until the engine starts. On my 2001 the FI light comes on until the fuel pump cycles and then goes out.
Don't know man..when you hooked the fuel line to the tank did you hear a click.
Sure sounds like it is fuel starved.
Ok. I checked all my fuses again and just replaced them with new since there probably originals.
No difference though. Just cranks
Now you have a new battery and probably fuel fouled plugs from your earlier attempts at starting. Did you keep your old plugs? I would screw one old one into each cylinder and try again.
Quote from: Troll on October 07, 2016, 03:51:03 AM
Now you have a new battery and probably fuel fouled plugs from your earlier attempts at starting. Did you keep your old plugs? I would screw one old one into each cylinder and try again. EVERY TIME I turn key from off to on I can hear fuel pump energizing and dash lights come on for few seconds and go out as they should.
Mr. Troll, Here is what I did this morning after bike new battery set on tender all night.
**Unplug tender and tested battery. 13.57 volts.
**Pulled choke and tried to start bike with old plugs, held starter button down for five seconds and it only cranks, wait 10-15 seconds and held starter button down for 5 seconds and only cranks. Did that sequence three more times.
Immediately pulled each plug and BONE DRY AND NO FUEL ON THEM??????WIERD ???
NEXT
**I have two extra new sets of the same NGK spark plugs NGK DPR6EA-9.
**Opened new set and checked gap, all same .08-.09 mm gap.
**Installed them and did starting sequence the same as above for 6 tries. Again every time key turned off and on I can hear fuel pump energize. Only Cranks.
**Checked all spark plugs again and their All Dry and No Fuel.
***SO it appears I have no fuel making contact with Spark Plugs. What should I do next?????
****ALso is there a way to confirm spark plug spark when I don't have a piece of raw metal on the bike that the plug wire with spark plug attached will touch and check?? My engine is painted all black and chrome top engine cover is chrome. I bought a inline spark plug spark tester from Autozone last night but it will not fit the bikes spark plugs. I guess made for cars spark plugs.
Thanks Again
P.S. I have a harbor frieght freebie with coupon multimeter that I used to check battery. Don't really know how to use it but the battery was easy.
MAY SOUND STUPID BUT JIFFEY STAND IS SHORT. IF STARTING BIKE AND THE BIKE IS LEANING TOO MUCH TO THE LEFT ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY THE TIP OVER SWITCH IS ACTIVATED. I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY. ALSO THE PLACEMENT OF THE TIP OVER SWITCH LOCATION ON 99 AND2000 ARE A RECALL YOU CAN FIX YOURSELF.
Quote from: UGLY on October 07, 2016, 09:36:41 AM
MAY SOUND STUPID BUT JIFFEY STAND IS SHORT. IF STARTING BIKE AND THE BIKE IS LEANING TOO MUCH TO THE LEFT ON A SLOPED DRIVEWAY THE TIP OVER SWITCH IS ACTIVATED. I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY. ALSO THE PLACEMENT OF THE TIP OVER SWITCH LOCATION ON 99 AND2000 ARE A RECALL YOU CAN FIX YOURSELF.
Thx but parked in level garage and tired with stand up and down and no difference. I ordered a fuel pump leaning that direction since spark plugs have no fuel after cranking many times. Mine a 2001 with 7000 miles. With the gas tank off at painters shop maybe something happened during handling??
Digging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0
I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.
you are SURE the fuel pump runs? Do you have a power commander or some such thing installed?
Quote from: Pilgrim on October 07, 2016, 10:19:05 AM
Digging up an old post... I would check that FI relay first.
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0
I know it's frustrating but you will get it figured out eventually.
Thx , I read the thread. I finally found my repair manual buried in garage. It did mention FI relay that I checked last night when there is a no fuel issue in the manual.
It shows this FI relay test. It shows to test for it with the Relay REMOVED from bike and not connected to bike at all (see Note below from my 1st screw up). 1st it says check for continuity between No. 3 and 4 terminals of the FI relay. I removed neg. battery term. and removed relay.
When I use the multimeter for the first test on relay continuity without a battery hooked to terminal 1 and 2 my multimeter
is on and dial turned to Ohms 20k and it only shows a 1 on the screen. I believe from the videos I just watched on on to use my multimeter it should show 000 being a good test and good continuity. I then turned the dial setting and tried at 200, 2000, 20k again, 200k, 2000k and all show 1 on screen.
So that FAILED the test???????
I then did second test and checked with a battery hooked up to terminal 1 and 2, first I can hear the relay click on when hooked to power.
I then with meter checked 3 and 4 and on OHMS at 20k and the screen shows 000. So it is GOOD test.
The manual says if it fails either test fails to replace relay.
*****Note- I screwed up last night when first testing the FI fuse that could of caused it to go bad from my first initial test. I did not read the key part of removing the FI fuse from the bike connector and doing the tests. when I used my alligator clips from my second battery to connect to the 1,2 terminal it had a little spark for a second and I stopped at that point and then read the full test procedures and realized ::) what I did it wrong. SO MAYBE THAT DAMAGED THE FI RELAY AND AFTER DOING THE TWO CONTINUITY TESTS CORRECTLY THE 2ND TIME IT SHOWS BAD. Maybe it was bad before or it became bad after I did the 1st check wrong had a small spark.
SO I have a bad FI relay but what caused it, the timing seems odd??? Can someone confirm I did the tests right???
Thanks again
Quote from: Troll on October 08, 2016, 04:42:42 AM
you are SURE the fuel pump runs? Do you have a power commander or some such thing installed?
Yes the fuel pumps is turns on every time I turn key to ON position. Also when I was trying to start and let it crank for 5 seconds and wait 10 seconds and try cranking again for 5 seconds and so on for 5 total attempts it I can hear the pump sometimes turning on again if that is normal????
No power commander and all stock set-up except VH long shots.
I just did the FI relay tests and wrote out the previous thread how I did tests from Pilgrims post and if tests done right then I think I have bad FI relay.
I just ordered the FI relay Kaw. part number 27002-1051 from Partzilla. Ill have it by Wed. I hope this is it.......
The price for a Kaw fuel pump is over $400 bucks. Holy cow thats crazy.
I ordered a fuel pump from Quantum Fuel from a post by AZCaveman Thx on VDR thread http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=43450.msg97256#msg97256
Quantum Fuel- http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=drifter+fuel+pump&go=Go
My Questions/Opinion is???? Hopefully the FI relay fixes my starting problem and if it does...................should I install the new fuel pump from Quantum Fuel since I already ordered one to just have a new one on my Drifter since my seat is off and tank not fully mounted back down or leave the OEM in there until I need to change it out at some point or year down the road??????
I would leave the OEM fuel pump in and keep the new one for spare..or return it.
With the relay removed and applying 12v to pin # 1 and 2 you should read zero across pin 3 and 4 with meter set to ohms.
and on the wires that go to pin # 1 and 2 you should read 12v when you hit starter...with meter ser to DC volts.
Quote from: Trall on October 08, 2016, 11:50:13 AM
I just ordered the FI relay Kaw. part number 27002-1051 from Partzilla. Ill have it by Wed. I hope this is it.......
The price for a Kaw fuel pump is over $400 bucks. Holy cow thats crazy.
I ordered a fuel pump from Quantum Fuel from a post by AZCaveman Thx on VDR thread http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=43450.msg97256#msg97256
Quantum Fuel- http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=drifter+fuel+pump&go=Go
My Questions/Opinion is???? Hopefully the FI relay fixes my starting problem and if it does...................should I install the new fuel pump from Quantum Fuel since I already ordered one to just have a new one on my Drifter since my seat is off and tank not fully mounted back down or leave the OEM in there until I need to change it out at some point or year down the road??????
I'm a firm believer in "if if aint broke...don't fix it"!
UPDATE- Making Progress BUT.......not quite there yet?????
Today my FI main Relay got delivered, installed it and the bike started up after a few attempts and stays running.
Sounds really good but my FI light stays on. So I checked and ran a jumper wire from my ECU and my code
is 21. 21 is Pick Up Coil #1, after it flashed three times the FI light went off but after starting again comes back on and stays on. Checked the FI code again and the same 21.
I am checking thru my manual now but have not found what I should do next?? All my spark plugs, and both Ignition coils with wires and spark plug boots/caps are all brand new so I find it strange I have a code 21.
So I am still checking the manual but any suggestions?????
Thanks Again.
you could swap the coils and see if the fault moves to #2...if it does, then I would say the coil is bad.
Quote from: Pilgrim on October 12, 2016, 17:06:25 PM
you could swap the coils and see if the fault moves to #2...if it does, then I would say the coil is bad.
That makes sense. I have a mechanic friend stopping by today so he's good with multimeter and testing. Ill wait and see if he can figure it out.
For now on the Coil #1 fault, I pulled my spark plugs again and checked gap and they were still .08 to .09 range. So there good. The bikes starts but takes a few tries and sometimes I have to twist the throttle a little for it to start. It will idle OK but after warming it up and trying to put it in first it wants to die. Not sure if the Vance and Hines Longshots are an issue for that.
Everything else is all stock. Last night tried to take it for a drive but it keeps dying when I go to first and acts like it needs more gas or something. Then sometimes would not want to restart right away and hard to start even though its been warmed up. SO maybe my fuel pump is not 100%.
Generally if pipes are changed and everything else stock then bike does not need a power commander type fuel device. AT least when it had my 800 that was the case. Being a 1500 and FI does that remain the same??
with one coil not working you are only running on one cylinder.
Quote from: Pilgrim on October 13, 2016, 07:04:25 AM
with one coil not working you are only running on one cylinder.
Are you sure???? I thought the the ECU just needs one pick up coil to run normal. So if one has a fault it picks up the good one and runs normal, and if both coils are bad then it won't run at all.
Last night it seemed to idle OK with no gas but hesitates when I tried to go in 1st gear, it also had a few misfires as well. Since I have the new VH pipes installed, this morning I added a stainless steel washer to each exhaust nut since I am sure 1 0r two nuts bottomed out and could be an exhaust leak and cause of the idle gas issue and backfire. So this morning bright and early added a 3mm thick lock washer to each exhaust nut and torqued them done. All the nuts no longer bottomed out. I already had new exhaust gaskets in place. Next I did the Marble Mod. to the right side air cover and that only takes a minute to do. The bike seemed to start better and idle better. Maybe its just in my mind but seemed to start easier and idle better compared to last night. Its also about 45 outside. It seemed to idle better. No backfires like last night. After warming up it went in first and stayed running. I went for a 7 min ride and everything seemed to be normal and run right. Went up to 4 th gear around 40mph and no backfires. Made it home fine.
SO check the box for an exhaust leak that is now fixed.
This afternoon when my mechanic friend stops by hopefully he can tell whats up with the FI code 21 for the pick up coil #1.
Ill keep in mind about the change out of coils if needed but he should be able to test each one.
Thanks...
Heres the link to marble mod and other good stuff from good folks here on the VDR-
Backfiring issues-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=38218.msg83254#msg83254
Marble Mod disable reed valves-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/smog-marbling.html
Air / Emissions Info-
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?action=links;cat=62
another thread to read..
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=1377.0
I think your getting close bro. Hopefully your friend will help you out this evening.
Quote from: Pilgrim on October 13, 2016, 08:47:33 AM
another thread to read..
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=1377.0
I think your getting close bro. Hopefully your friend will help you out this evening.
I was thinking of the ignition coils that should not impact performance. If one ignition coil is bad the ECU picks the good one to run the bike. My ignition coils are all new and but there fine, I was confusing myself and thinking ignition coils but no codes on them, just it the pickup coil #1.
Thats a good thread.
I just checked my manual and the pickup coils are located under the alternator cover / Left cover. I don't know if this is related but when my body parts were off to the painter, I moved the rectifier with a Nomad rectifier mounting bracket to the mounted holes on lower frame tubes at bottom of radiator, never needed unplugged but I had to remove the left side cover to re-route the rectifier wiring to the front. I wonder if anything got touched in the process since the pickup coils are located there???
I ll know more this afternoon.
I just pulled off the Left ALt. cover to get ready for the mechanic to test. Everything looks plugged it form the wires available.
I looked at the manual in case the coils have to be removed to replace them. The inner alternator cover looks like a major chore to remove. The manual mentions using jacks and removing engine front and rear mounting bolts and lots of stuff. I don't know if I can do it with what i have just to get the inner alt. cover off.
Anyone have any tips on the easiest way to remove the inner alt cover???
Partzilla calls the pick up coils Coil-Pulsing Kawasaki Part #59026-1158. Cost 63.69 plus shipping. Sold as a set, so you get both Pick-up coils 1 + 2 it looks like.
I wouldn't pull that cover until your buddy checks the coils with his ohm meter.
I have never had to check these coils but there should be a wire harness coming out with a connector and should be able to check the coils from the connector.
I have never laid eyes on the connector but from looking at the parts diagram, it looks like two wires to each coil so it is probably a four pin connector.
My friend mechanic stopped by to check the 21 code. And it's definitely the pick up coil is bad and because of that the bike is running on one cylinder instead of two that he said as well when he checked.
So now no one has the parts it's on backorder so I'm going to have to wait about a week and a half till I get it.
Taking off the inner alternator cover should be fairly easy when he looked at it.
I was thinking about the other cover behind the alternator innner cover. I thought that might've had to come off which require a lot more time and work.
So hopefully the end is in sight and all the bugs we were dead after this new pick up coils replaced.
Thanks for everybody help.
8) So while you are waiting, you can clean and polish the bike and clean all the spokes and the rims, getting ready to ride it for the few weeks left of the summer.
Quote from: CDNRatMan on October 13, 2016, 19:22:52 PM
8) So while you are waiting, you can clean and polish the bike and clean all the spokes and the rims, getting ready to ride it for the few weeks left of the summer.
Oh yea. Thats what I have been doing for the past two months, that and every maintenance preventative item that comes to mind, coolant temp. sensor, powder coater did rims and some other Drifter parts, brake pads, coolant flush/change (did that one before I took the tank off), steering stem zerk mod, brake flush, clutch flush, rectifier relocation mod, Ted Strubble Hand shifter, Ted Strubble shaft cover, and more in my down time. All because my painter had all my body parts and was 1 month late in returning them. So its a clean machine :D to say the least. I think all the bugs are figured out with this last part and she should be ready for the road soon once this part on a backorder comes in. You should see my credit card bill. :'(
At least my painter had a conscience for being so late and reduced my bill by $225.
Well he might just be a decent business man.
You did not have any issues with the 800, oh and count the front spokes for Zoar........
Quote from: CDNRatMan on October 13, 2016, 23:18:36 PM
Well he might just be a decent business man.
You did not have any issues with the 800, oh and count the front spokes for Zoar........
Zoar can count his own spokes...LOL....My 800 had its share of bugs after buying but after getting then all worked out the new owner drove it back home from IL to NY with no problems. Ill be there soon with the new scoot..........
::) part of the fun of a new / used bike getting to learn it's little moods and such, then learning what makes it tick and how it responds......
Quote from: Trall on October 13, 2016, 22:59:24 PM
So its a clean machine :D to say the least. I think all the bugs are figured out with this last part and she should be ready for the road soon once this part on a backorder comes in.
So does that mean you'll be riding to Sturgis 2017 with me? I'll stop by and pick you up on my way out. 8)
Thanks for the invite. I can't plan that far ahead right now with money, job, kids and wife but will keep it in mind. I spent some crazy bucks /credit card debt on restoring my beauty. I did everything to my 800 and everything else I wanted to do to the 800 to my 1500. Its like running a marathon to get it all done compared to waiting tell Xmas day. I was thinking to make it to a Drift In if thats the name first at some point and year.
One thing I did was the Gilroy Indian Era right side air cover that is absolutely gorgeous on the Drifter. Ill post pics soon when its all done. Its close......Well see..........
Unbelievable Frustration....... I got the alternate cover off from other posts -http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=44167.0 (just adding thread in in case someone reads this down the road with same issues)
I Waited 24hrs. plus for the pickup coil rubber wire plugs that slide into alternator cover / silicone sealant to dry on the alternator cover and still have the same problem and bike not running normal. Got the bike started after a few tries and front cylinder pipe still cold and rear cylinder pipe hot and FI light still ON. I run the jumper wire from the ECU for code and it's still saying 21 code for pickup coil #1 bad.
With brand new Kawasaki pickup coil set that seems unlikely. I called my mechanic friend and told him. He thought something must be bad with a wire somewhere. First, He said for me to change out the front cylinder spark plugs in case they were fouled up from gas and not running since dealing with this issue, like Troll mentioned earlier when dealing with this problem. Did that and same conditions. He said if that does not work then its probably a bad wire somewhere from the pickup coil or ignition coils or maybe the ECU is bad. At this point he's booked up but can check the bike and start testing the wires and parts next week when I drop it off.
Is there a way to test the ECU, to see if it's bad?? I disconnected the connectors to it and all the metal prongs look clean with no corrosion.
Would a bad ECU say a pickup coil #1 is bad and only run the 2nd cylinder? Even after new pick-up coils installed?
With brand new Kaw parts so far being Ignition coils with sparkplug wires and spark plugs, pickup coils #1 and #2, FI relay, and new battery I am leaning towards - its probably and bad wire somewhere or bad ECU.
check for continuity in the wire harness. a broken wire is a much more likely cause.
Thats prob the issue in a wire somewhere. I have no to limited knowledge in electrical checks but have someone next week that does and will have to check those areas but first-
Just to rule it out, I got a used ECU that the seller has 30 days no questions returns minus return shipping costs and 10% restock fee. So for about $30 costs I can quickly rule that in or out in about 3 minutes to hook a new ECU up to the bike. If ruled out then has to be a wire.
I had a car once that had several weird electrical issues and running issue and the master mechanic check everything and change some likely parts and problem persisted until new car ECU and never a problem since.
Thanks.
P.S. Hey Troll I see you also have a rockin 01 with great factory colors. In your pictures with solo seat and solo structs with added solo luggage rack with added aftermarket pad- With that luggage rack support a person? I have the same one.
Thank you. I am just about 375 miles short of 110,000 on it as of this evening.
On the road again and the Drifter Gods were shining in IL today with sunshine and 49 degrees.
I got the ECU with a 30 day return policy and swapped out but exact same symptoms. So that ruled out a bad computer. After calling a few bike shops, then I towed it to the local Kawasaki Dealer who had a 40 year Master tech. Figured if he can't find the issue then no one can. The Master mechanic had the bike up and ready 4 hours later.
I was not able to speak directly with the Master tech. but the service advisor Notes read "Ground wires from coils to ignitor were split somewhere in harness. Front cylinder had total split ground and rear cylinder had loose ground causing intermit spark. Problem was resolved by re-running ground wires from both coils to functioning ground wires in harness."
Bottom line, my Drifter is alive again and the 50 minute ride home was like I was at Disneyland. I probably pinched some ground wires is my guess from having the tank on and off or other parts off during the painting, cleaning, and detailing process.
Thank again for pointers along the way..................
Everybody worries about the parts at the end of the wires, nobody considers the wires, themselves....
;D wonderful. Well, you replaced a few parts but you also got to know your bike better.
Glad you got her up and running. Still be some good riding days left.
Glad to hear the good news! It's a great feeling to have you're bike up and running again. Now go clean up that shop and put the tools and spare parts away.
Excellent!
Sometimes it is best to take it to an expert...
If we can find one.
Glad you are up and running now!
Damn wires!
Glad all is well. :D
Quote from: JagLite on November 08, 2016, 20:51:32 PM
Excellent!
Sometimes it is best to take it to an expert...
If we can find one.
Glad you are up and running now!
Yes it was. The service tech said they had a little over 4 hours into it and charged me for 3.
That or really had 2 hours and charged me for 3. Either way I was relieved and happy to ride her home instead of tow her when I dropped her off.
The bill total was $333.
Greast that your bike is up and running again. 8)