So there i was putting in a charged battery and being color blind with 2 black cables i hooked up my battery wrong heard a slight audible pop, and now my bike will not receive any power. I checked the main fuse by battery it was intact. What am I missing and how do i get the ole girl power.... Please help
I don't have my service manual here, on the road, but the fuse box inside the right side cover, right by the coolant tank is where to look next.
thanks TROLL, i will check that out as soon as i return home myself, i was told could be a relay also (possibly) how hard are they to change?
also when i say no power, not a single sound or light. absolute nothing
Fuses are there to prevent damage to the electrical system I suspect the green 30 A fuse is blown
what is the 30A to? again I'm not at bike...
The one by the battery in the white holder is the EFI main, the one in the fuse box is the main for the whole bike
EFI?
Electronic Fuel Injection
so i changed the fuse got power back and tried starting and even bought a new battery with more cca, now will turn over but will not start, i get little puff of it trying to start but no rumble, if that makes since. What can it be now or what do i do? it hasn't been cranked in 2.5 months
Do you hear the fuel pump run? Pull the plugs, and maybe replace them. When my battery was failing, mine would flood once in a while.
as soon as i turn the ignition i can hear the buzz noise. and the FI light goes off.
I would guess that the plugs are the next thing to do. Wet plugs from insufficient power while cranking won't fire...you'll get the occasional puff or pop, but no running. If you have more than 10,000 miles on the bike, then new plugs are in order, anyway. What year is it? My "'01" was actually 14 years old in July.
mine is a 99 with 20k miles
If you have the factory tool kit, it has a correct plug wrench/socket. If you don't you need a 6 point 18mm socket that doesn't have very think walls. I would suggest you use a 3/8 drive socket to limit the torque. Do you have an owner's manual? The tool kit, if it hasn't gone missing, is in a tray behind the left side cover. The bottom of the area you see when you open the cover is actually the top of a drawer that holds the kit....
You are miles instead of kilometers ahead of me USCGcookie. The same bike.
I bought mine last winter and it would not even start after only a three week period. The engine turns noticeably more freely now, so just maybe the problem of getting it running is worse on low millage. 14 km/liter then and 18 km/liter now. The injection keeps pumping gas merciless when it does not ignite and you'll over-flood the cylinder soon. After a 4 minutes break it started right up but it should not have taken much longer. I know better now and will try more times shorter. Repeatedly ten seconds and not like almost one minute when it is added up. Carbs are easier.
I don't recommend changing for dry spark plugs. When you get the distinct gas smell from the exhaust you will have to wait. I always open the throttle to let more air in when it floods but without effect so far. Take a coffee break, clean a tire, charge the battery back up in the meantime and try again.
Some tips: Have sufficient idle or else the "fast idle" intake air-temperature sensor may surprise you when it does not work or even when it stops working and the engine quits. Use the choke. Pushing the choke back in while trying has worked for me on some bikes. Check the panic buttons position and rock it gently back and forth a couple of times. Try changing gear then back to neutral and pull the clutch, on at least one attempt, this because of the safety switches then being canceled. Starter-fluid in the intake is a good idea mostly but first let others comment on the risks involved. Throttle should remain closed when you start the bike.
The fusebox where you are possibly still looking for is behind the coolant reserve tank, that you can pull off or there is only one bolt, I forgot. The fuses are to be extracted with a small plastic fuse plier. It would be great when more fuses sacrificed the moment you did this mad experiment. You do have a high Amperage battery and the terminals clean connected? Switch the lights off on the attempt. Next is checking for spark. Greetings. Alfred, The Netherlands
ok so new plugs in and set to proper gap same thing will crank but not start. what next?
Pull out one of the plugs and look to see if it's wet. If there was a lot of fuel in the cylinders, it could have wet the new plugs. I always crank a flooded engine withe plugs out and the throttle wide open for a few seconds to expel any unburned fuel before putting new plugs. Sometimes I forget that not everybody has been doing the for 40 years...
roger that
Okay, start simple...
1) bike has been sitting for a while... check the FUEL!, Check the Vehicle down sensor, check the kickstand switch and the clutch switch. Carefully go through your routine start procedure, neutral, kill switch on, ignition in right position, etc.
2) Since you are unsure what fuses go to what... check ALL the fuses. (Get a service manual). You may have popped more than one component.
3) Check the plugs and make sure you are getting fuel - after you try to start, pull a plug and check if there is fuel present on the plug tip.
NO = pull plug on opposite side and check, if still no check the fuel pump.
YES = Check Spark.
4) Check to ensure you have good spark... (look up how to check for spark)
NO = If you don't it could be bad plugs, wires or ECU. You will need to perform an ECU self-diagnostic, replace plugs and wires.
= Check the vehicle down sensor!
YES = could be compression problem... not likely in this case.
5) The ECU self-diagnostic will test the pickup coils, injectors, etc.
Mine has flooded twice on me over the years; both times, the battery was a bit low from sitting. I pulled the plugs for an hour to let the cylinders air out, and charged the battery at the same time; left plugs out and charger on for an hour minimum.
Also, since you have been trying for quite a while, and if it has been flooding the whole while, you may need to change the oil, as it could be contaminated and thinned by the gas seeping past the rings. This won't be a starting issue, but is something to think about when you do get it running.
where is the vehicle- down sensor and how do i check to see if that is the problem?
If the EFI light goes out after a few seconds, then it's ok. Were the plugs you took out wet/black/sooty? If the sensor triggers, the EFI light will blink until the ign. is cycled off-on....
they were a sooty, not really wet though
Sooty means there is incomplete combustion. Damn, I wish I could lay hands on this bike....
what do you mean incomplete combustion and how do i fix it? is it time for a mechanic to look at it?
bike has not been dropped or layer down.
Let's start with a few simple checks. This is not a very complicated system, at least by car standards, so it should be pretty easy to nail it down. First, take off the r/s air box cover. Inside you will see the throttle body and the two cold idle air bleed solenoids. Hold the throttle open with one hand and shine a flashlight down the bore. You will see where the injectors spray fuel. Remove one spark plug from each cylinder...doesn't matter which ones, just so you have two of the 4 out. With someone holding the throttle open so you can look into the bore, shine the flashlight and crank the engine and see if you see fuel spray. Alternatively, you could stick your finger or a long piece of cardboard in the see if it gets wet with fuel. If it does, then you have just checked the injection system. The ignition system is completely independent of the injection, and is essentially the same as on a carbed engine. Hold a spark plug with the wire connected to the terminal against the engine...somewhere it's NOT painted, and look for a spark at the plug. If you have fuel spray and spark, then the bike is ok, and maybe the fuel you're trying to burn won't. A couple of months of sitting with the crap they call gasoline, now a days is enough to turn it into varnish....Post the results when you can. I'm really thinking it's still flooded.
Ok did cardboard trick and not getting wet.
OK, then, so no injection, or no fuel. You said you heard the pump run, so now we're looking for a different problem. Do you have any engine starting fluid (ether)?
If you do, put the plugs back in and give it a spray right down the throttle bore with it open, then close it and see if it will run for a second or so....I'm going to look at wiring diagrams to see if there are any other things that could have been damaged with the backwards battery connection...I'll get back to you real soon...
Ok so the either did help in run for a few seconds
I also put some seafoam in the tank
OK...something to eliminate. The ignition system is ok. The only thing I'm worried about is the computer, now. Soooo, let's start with a couple of things to look at. You are going to have to remove the fuel tank. It's a '99, right? The "J" models have an external fuel filter. It is possible that it is plugged, but not really likely. You will need to remove the tank to access the injectors. Just one more thought before surgery...Did you check the fuse in the white holder near the battery on the frame cross member??????