I'm wondering if I need a different wind screen? It sits up higher than I want, making me look through the top 3-4" of the glass at the top. I tried lowering it, but I've got it all the way down, and it's still 3" above the headlight. Wouldn't it be better fitting tighter to the headlight? It looks like a lot of air goes through there.... Also the bottom of the screen is down against the spotlight bar and also touching the spots, so even if the bracket would go lower, the screen could not due to the light bar.
The only thing I can think of is to cut off the top of the screen about 4", but then I'm still bottomed on the mount, and still have a big 3" gap above the headlight.
Any thoughts? This is apparently a National Cycles wind screen, from the emblem, Is there a screen that fits better?? The 800 fits much lower - don't know what brand it is either.
sorry about the poor pics - I should have rolled it outside, but I think you can get enough detail to see what I'm talking about.
ok not like mine, so not sure, but you can cut the top off if need be and you can fill that gap with a piece of canvas like in the old days.....
There are three different heighths availabel for the Kawi classice and Drifter. My PO innstalled the taillest of the three but unfortunaly it was tinted. It looked cool but at night it was like riding with sunglassees. I replaced it wtih a shorter one tha I can see over.
Jmbo, what brand and size did you end up with?
The standard is 21". You can also get them in 19", 23" and 25". Mine is standard and I ordered it from http://www.ceebaileys.com/kawasaki/drifterws.html
There is also the Fire & Steel Nomad style shield like I have. It fits the headlight / spots and with it's height adjustment you can easily adjust it to the height you need.
I had the National Cyle Shorty on my Classic same problem with the gap around the headlight, but tbh the stock Drifter shield I have has pretty much the same amount of gap. That also looks like you have the NC shield mounted on the stock brackets, most NC shields mount with fork tube mounts so perhaps that would explain your lack of proper adjustment. Below are the actual mounts NC makes for the Drifter 1500.
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/national-cycle-heavy-duty-wide-mounting-kit-kawasaki-vn8001500-vulcan-classic-drifter/part/NC-KIT-JF
http://shop.nationalcycle.com/perl/cycle/large_photo?mv_session_id=TStxJXYE&mv_arg=KIT-JE&search_model=ka-042
I had the F&S shield and replaced the plastic with a Rifle... but here are some options for you...
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/reviewpost/showcat.php?cat=23
My 1500 came with a National screen, but it is a 2 piece. The lower portion is adjustable to allow for a nice even fit around the headlight. Also it was a bit to tall for my liking so I had it shorten by 3". It is similar to model # N2220. I just wish there was a quick connect setup for it.
http://shop.nationalcycle.com/perl/cycle/results2.html?search_model=ka-042
aralph
You can cut it down with a gig saw and then sand the edges with a sanding block and it will look just like a factory cut shield.
I cut mine windshield off my Goldwing down and it looked great. It was very easy to do.
Use some 3 inch wide blue masking tape to cover the edge of the shield so that it doesn't get scratched from the gig saw frame. Use a piece of cardboard to trace the original curve. Sit on the bike and look though the windshield.... and look down the road and imagine you are looking at something 50 yards away. Mark that spot on the shield. Now, you can adjust to your liking below that mark on the shield.
Trace that cardboard with a sharpie onto the masking tape and cut away.
Note: Use a hard rubber sanding block and add your own sand paper. Do not use one of the foam sanding blocks. You will benefit the use of the hard rubber sanding block as it will act as a straight end in taking out any high or low spots from your cut. If you use the foam sanding block it will just conform to your cut and won't take out those spots.
You must post pictures of your cut windshield when you are done.
Also, if you do decide to buy a different windshield rather than cut yours down, just buy the windshield blank. You don't need to buy all of that expensive hardware again. I broke my shield off of my C50 Suzuki and I bought a replacement blank for $40.
Thanks for all of the input on this, I appreciate the feedback. Looks like I have a few options.
I had originally thought of just cutting down the top of the screen, as the cheapest/easiest. But it's already down as far as it will go on the mounts, and it's against the spots, and there is still a big gap between the headlight, so if I cut off say 3" and then moved it up a little to get it off the spot lights, I'd have an even bigger gap. One more thing I haven't mentioned- to make this fit on the mounts, there are 1/4" spacers between the windscreen brackets and the fork mount. That's not much fun trying to thread bolts through the bracket, then through a spacer, then into the threaded mount - all 4 of them - while trying to hold the windscreen with the other hand. So I'm kind of thinking about changing something to help this situation too.
That leaves me with either A) buying National Cycle fork mounts and use the windscreen I've got, or B) buy a new original-style windscreen w/ brackets and keep the existing mount. Is one of these options inherently better than the other?? Does either one have a quick mount or something making it easier on/off? I guess option B gets me brand new glass with no scratches. The current glass is in pretty good shape- some scratches on the top 3" but they might clean up or might get trimmed off if I kept it.
Will probably give the adjustment you need with the proper mounts, definitely easier to get off and adjust but they are rather pricey if it doesn't give you what you need.
Quotethere are 1/4" spacers between the windscreen brackets and the fork mount. That's not much fun trying to thread bolts through the bracket, then through a spacer, then into the threaded mount - all 4 of them - while trying to hold the windscreen with the other hand
I have 2 spacers, and I thought it was just me who had issues with doing it alone, at least you have 2 boys to ask for a extra hand and I know your lovely missus would like to help you out.......I need to train my fish to help me out.........
I would ask PC but not sure if he is allowed across the border.........
Quote from: CDNRatMan on June 01, 2014, 23:00:14 PM
at least you have 2 boys to ask for a extra hand
.........
Yea, but they're NEVER around... except meal time :o
Ratman, just think of me as your American Ambassador!
As I've mentioned before, I have the Fire & Steel Nomad style shield, and I don't have any spacers or washers to deal with.the bolts go right into the threaded mounts and that's it. My shield is in the halfway up position and I have a 1 1/2" gap between the shield and the headlight. There is virtually no gap between the shield and the spotlights, but I did the No-bar light bar trick, so that explains that. If I'd have used a proper light bar, I'd have loads of room for sure.
I don't seem to have the problem that you're talking about with the gap over the headlight and air flow. I wonder if that's because I have a small leather storage bag on the inside of my shield that is diverting the air? Could a solution be that simple? It sits right down on the risers. Here's a pic of the bag mounted.
I'm not really experiencing huge difficulties that I'm aware of from the gap above the headlight- Just wondered if there any problems from it I should be looking for.
That, and I think it would look better lower.
I spent some time e-mailing some of the windshield companies, to tell me exactly what I would need to either fit a mount to my w/s or vice-versa. Hopefully I'll come up with the best solution, and it won't cost an arm and a leg.
I haven't seen this subframe on any of your Drifters. It is adjustable in all directions and there is a rectangle, girdle, where it attaches to. Is it not original accessory? The paint on it looks worn. How is it called? I could make more pictures when it is important to anyone. I like the thing and no stems are in the way. Only it looks older then the bike.
(https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi57.tinypic.com%2F1z6ux50.jpg&hash=807b4e03cda3ececa36d7aab0b05a7a6c4be4002)
Moosewing3
The mounts in links that you have provided look like mine (National Cycle) that's how they are - the bottom of the screen clears the
headlight by a good 3".
They are a two man job to take on and off easily, but I only do it very occasionally. I have noticed any problems , I'm 5'7" with short legs.
Can anyone tell me why a w/s for a Classic would not work on the Drifter? I had the understanding the Drifter has the same fork setup as the Classics? However, customer service from Memphis Shades replied to my email that they don't offer anything for a Drifter. I asked about the Classic, explaining I thought the forks were the same, and their reply was a very un-informative "No the classic will not work on the drifter".
What am I missing??
Memphis Shades have ALWAYS said their setup will not work on the Drifter. A few Drifter riders have used other mounting hardware and made it work. Personally its not worth the hassle. Go with National Cycle if you like the tinted stuff... Rifle makes good plastic that will fit F&S brackets. Check the products section of the website.
the reason that you cannot use a ws from a classic is a very slight difrence in the top tripple tree. this is for us the lack of threaded holes that the classic has. i ran into this issue my self when i purchased the memphis slim. now what you can do if you are brave enough is drill and tapp these holes into the tripple tree. it is a little hair raising due to the alluminum construction and the close proximity to the forks but it will work. on a side note i did ride around with that memphis just held in place by the lower bolts of the mount and other than a slight vib/ hum had no issues, but that was only temporary not sure how much stress that would put on the mount itself
Quote from: draconarmy on June 03, 2014, 11:28:51 AM
the reason that you cannot use a ws from a classic is a very slight difrence in the top tripple tree. this is for us the lack of threaded holes that the classic has. i ran into this issue my self when i purchased the memphis slim. now what you can do if you are brave enough is drill and tapp these holes into the tripple tree. it is a little hair raising due to the alluminum construction and the close proximity to the forks but it will work. on a side note i did ride around with that memphis just held in place by the lower bolts of the mount and other than a slight vib/ hum had no issues, but that was only temporary not sure how much stress that would put on the mount itself
That doesn't sound like too bad of a deal. I'll have to look into that one.
I found this site which is were I will be ordering a new screen over the winter from because I am just going to use the old hardware and some powder coating......
http://www.7jurock.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=47
This topic is more about the screens shape and yours are all tighter to the fork then mine, anyhow this is my sub-frame on a picture from behind since I mentioned it. It attaches under the handlebar risers only and is adjustable in all directions.
The large gap under the screen provides ventilation and high air pressure to the front could force bikes going straight in bends. This is especially noticed on lighter motorcycles with big screens. Our Drifters have large springs and could be unforgiving because of their weight. Handling characteristics and safety only improve when more air can move around it.
Another thought. Who knows what road dirt comes up from below when the windscreen is less ventilated. I experienced all sort of light objects behind the screen on another bike and you would not want many more of those small surprises.
(https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi61.tinypic.com%2F30wqioy.jpg&hash=7b1a091c7709c921589f06f81c3682d0689b4a33)
Thanks for the info Goose and everyone else. I have noticed a big difference in turbulence between the 800's shield and the 1500. On the 1500, I notices I can ride with a ball cap on, bill forward, and it doesn't blow off. On the 800 no way. lots of helmet turbulence. Part of this may be height - the 1500 is way too high. But then I realized maybe that 3" gap above the headlight may be doing something to reduce turbulence in the head/face area?? Also, shield angle might be something too. I believe I have the 800's tilted back as far as I can, in order to get it low enough to see over. Does a more straight vertical shield angle produce less turbulence???
I see a lot of "how to's" on various windshield mfg and seller sites, for fitting your windshield to your personal size, but they always just talk about height - none of them that I could fine deal with angle.
QuoteI notices I can ride with a ball cap on, bill forward, and it doesn't blow off. On the 800 no way
your helmet gets blown off with a visor?
No, just talking about a ball cap. without a helmet. I can actually wear a baseball cap, with the bill forward, like I see the dudes on Goldwings.
Disclaimer: I only rarely do not wear a helmet.
[ot]You wearing a Hawaiian shirt and shorts, and white tennies, too...just like the gold wing guys?[/ot]
[ot]LOL. not so much....[/ot]
[ot] ok wait Troll, nothing wrong with the Hawaiian shirt thing,
GreenBarn you wear a ball hat while riding, you who is a father and a husband and have people depending on you and need you to provide for them...how reckless that is of you......[/ot]
[ot]Not very often, and not very far..... I also occasionally take short drives in the truck without a seatbelt, eat too much meat and desserts, and have a (very) infrequent cigar... Nobody's perfect[/ot]
[ot] :o wow you sure live on the edge......only thing you missed on your vices list were gambling and drinking.....[/ot]
so this thread got me thinking the other day and while i was riding on a less populated stretch i stuck my face down near the gap between my ws and the headlight. even at 40mph i felt little to no wind getting through. so unless you just dont like the look inho dont "mind the gap" sorry for that pun.
[ot] Now see GB, letting people know about your vices now you have people doing dangerous things like riding with their head in the gap. Next they will be riding and smoking at the same time and talking on the phone, with no helmets on......[/ot]
[ot]
Quote from: CDNRatMan on June 09, 2014, 08:04:52 AM
Now see GB, letting people know about your vices now you have people doing dangerous things like riding with their head in the gap. Next they will be riding and smoking at the same time and talking on the phone, with no helmets on......
And texting .... don't forget texting... while putting on makeup, and reading the paper. [/ot]
Draconarmy, I noticed the same thing (but I actually just put my hand down there) not much wind at all. Actually, I don't know, but I think it might somehow reduce the turbulence , not sure.
Ok now to steer this back on the subject matter,
I noticed since I had my seat redone that my windscreen is about a good 2" higher then I want it, so I have to make the adjustment on Friday before going on the Ride For Dad run.........
[ot]
Quote from: CDNRatMan on June 10, 2014, 07:30:37 AM
Ok now to steer this back on the subject matter,
I noticed since I had my seat redone that my windscreen is about a good 2" higher then I want it, so I have to make the adjustment on Friday before going on the Ride For Dad run.........
They say that as you age, you actually lose height.
YOU'RE SHRINKING!!!!!!![/ot]
[ot] I will just let this slide because you did not read about the mods to the seat.
I am not shrinking my clothing is getting too snug.........[/ot]
Most of the turbulence on a 1500 comes from the updraft... lowers really help that area.
Lowers can completely transform the riding experience!
i second the lowers...could try cramming a shirt or towel or cut a piece of cardboard and cover any holes you may think air is cuausing turbulence until you narrow it down.