OK I finally got "1SG CAV" home. The mechanic didn't charge me a dime. He said, if I can't fix it I'm not charging you anything. That's the good thing that happened today. Chief I plan on doing a self test on the ECU. I am also going to remove that da__ hyper-charger. Are there any precautions I should be aware of when removing it? My hopes are to put some kind of air filter on, Any IDEAs? I really want to ride it to Durango not haul it.
For all inquiring minds, Still runs like crap.
just to get back up to speed; all the tests that Chief suggested came back as good? Fuel pressures were within specs and held?
so far things have checked out. I removed the #%&*(&#$%@ hyper-charger. Ran a little better, of course I'll have to remap it. Next I'm doing the self test, It was done at the shop and showed no problems.
Does the air temp sensor have to be installed?
OK I did a self test, several times (just to be sure) and nothing showed up. The bike did run a little better when I removed the hyper charger. (Just running straight intake, no filter, shop setting)
Question still remains, do you need the air temp sensor?
The Air Temp Sensor controls fuel flow; without one computer would not reduce fuel as temp went up; causing an overly rich mixture. I believe all aftermarket air housings retain this piece. It is a needed input for the computer to make the bike run efficiently.
Yes you need the air temp sensor.
There are several aftermarket air boxes available. There are also a couple of possible DIY boxes available.
Some of the aftermarket bits can be found here...
http://www.saftek.com/drifter/reviewpost/showcat.php/cat/5/page/2
Thunder has some backplates... as does Scootworks I believe.
OK removed the reeds. and the remaining parts to the hyper-charger. The question is there are four electrical plugs coming of the same section as the air sensor. They aren't hooked to anything. Does anyone know where they go?
Those wires are for the Idle Speed Control Valves inside the factory air housing. The ISC's are not used with most air filter mods;
thanks thought that might of been part of my problem. Ran better with no hyper- charger. will remap today and see how it runs then. I do know that when I took the hyper- crapper (new name for the thing ;D) there was no black smoke out the tailpipe.
OK I ran ran another ECU self-test. Now I get the code 22 which is pick-up coil #2. Will this cause the bike to run like crap? and mess up my throttle position?
I've got to buy a book tomorrow. Then I won't look sound so stupid asking all these questions :o
Pick up coils control the spark timing. As I understand it, you only need a good signal from 1 of the coils to run the engine. Run an ohm meter test on the coils to check to see if they are good. Disconnect the leads, hook up the meter to the coils; the meter should read between 380 and 560 ohms. Any other reading indicates a bad coil.
Yes, a faulty pickup coil will impact performance, especially high speed performance. One coil serves the front cylinder and one the rear, but if one fails the system defaults to the good PU coil.
Its not difficult to test and replace these, but they are not available individually, you have to buy both of them.
If you want to test them, there is a peak voltage test and a resistance test. griz gave you the parameters for the resistance test.
Peak Voltage is: Front = 2.2v or more; Rear=2.0v or more.
FYI... There are part numbers for the tester and peak voltage adapter for the tester... 57001-1394 and 57001-1415. These aren't necessary if you have a tester and know how to use it.
I strongly recommend you either take this to the shop and tell them to replace the pickup coils, or buy a shop manual. I recommend the Clymer Vulcan 1500 series manual... M471-3; ISBN-13 = 978-1-59969-170-1
Click on one of the links below to get to the VDR book page.
Clymer Vulcan Manual (http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/bookclymer.html)
Vulcan Books (http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/books.html)
I am happy to announce That 1SG CAV is up and running strong. I found a site to show how you can adjust the TPS. I also found the main wire wasn't fully connected. Repaired the wire checked the voltage to the TPS. Re-installed the hypercharger and BAM it is running better than ever. Makes you wonder about mechanics. I found the wire problem unwrapping the tape. Otherwise I'd have never found it.
It idles, runs at slow speeds and hauls when you it too. No black smoke, no stalling or hesitation.
I want to thank everyone for all their input. Without you guys I wouldn't have The 1SG running. I'm all ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Glad to hear it!! Always great when it turns out to be something simple! Did you used gagets page? I was never sure how well that procedure would work.
Did the code 22 go away?
The gadget page was awesome, step by step instructions. I love the fact that my ride is running, and the Mechanic couldn't figure out the problem. Of course most mechanic here have never seen a Drifter more less work on them. did a self test before hand and all systems a go. NO FI light ;D.
That's interesting... the TPS adjustment isn't necessary if you have an EFI box... like PCIII... so I doubt that was the problem. The problem WAS the wire... it was likely making contact intermittently causing the bike to run poorly.
I'm wondering why you got an error 22... however. Hope it works for you in any event.