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Posted by rwantin
- September 19, 2016, 11:09:03 AMQuote from: CDNRatMan on September 19, 2016, 09:40:50 AMI'll check it out, thanks! Everything is on the table here.Perhaps you might want to look at your rear wheel and the Damper rear hub shock, part # 92075-1121 see if it needs replacement. Just a thought.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- September 19, 2016, 09:40:50 AMPerhaps you might want to look at your rear wheel and the Damper rear hub shock, part # 92075-1121 see if it needs replacement. Just a thought.
Posted by rwantin
- September 19, 2016, 07:57:27 AMThe thread that won't die. I swear I am getting warmer, at least I hope! 
I've been busy going through everything suggested in this thread. Most recently, the fuel filter (brand new factory unit) and a rust-free tank. I was actually encouraged by the crud that came out of the old filter, and hopeful that there might be the issue.
The bike runs fantastic (again, I LOVE this thing), but the washboard feel/resonance persists at low speeds/light loads. The bike accelerates and runs at speed very smoothly.
I realize, out of some thirty bikes, that this is my first big V, so perhaps a small part of it is the nature of the beast. But the resonance/washboard feel is pretty harsh.
The last thing would be the ujoint, but I'm not so sure as I can mimic the resonance with small throttle inputs (say, maybe 1500 - 2000 rpm) at a standstill. That said, I'm thinking against the joint, at least for now. It is possible it has tightened up (with only 6700 miles, the bike sat a LOT), but again, the stationary thing. If I need to tear down the arse end I'll do it this winter.
I'll continue to run some Seafoam through it. Another thought - service the injector/throttle body? Thoughts? Given the crud in the filter, perhaps it is compromised as well?
Appreciate it, and would like nothing more than this thread to die.
Posted by rwantin
- July 16, 2016, 05:04:53 AMQuote from: Troll on July 15, 2016, 19:01:01 PMFortunately, a '99 (J), so this should be a bit easier.What year is your bike? The filter is inside the tank on the "R" model, and outside the tank on the "J" model
Posted by Troll
- July 15, 2016, 19:01:01 PMWhat year is your bike? The filter is inside the tank on the "R" model, and outside the tank on the "J" model
Posted by rwantin
- July 15, 2016, 15:06:25 PMGreetings Goose, and thanks for taking the time.
I have changed everything (including the rear diff) but the coolant thus far (looks as though it was changed recently, but noting the Honda stuff). I think we're okay on the tires, I'm familiar with cupping (either on used bikes or my own commuting). Changed oil with Mobil 1 Synth V-Twin, level is good (those little sticks with mirrors on them are handy).
I can duplicate vibration static (bike in neutral) with just a small pull of the throttle - the washboard effect is obviously more noticeable whilst moving. I'm running seafoam through it and changing the filter this weekend - there is a small amount of rust in the tank which I will also be addressing - so looking forward to seeing if there's anything in the filter.
And then there is, well, just riding the thing more - weather and work have been fighting me a bit in this regard.
Again, this is a great group - and I hope to have this beast for quite some time.
Posted by Gooseberrie
- July 15, 2016, 03:01:27 AMI like to drop in here.
Go over the fact that tachometers can be adjusted or disconnected or not repaired all too soon, when the cable (a short cable for this matter) breaks prematurely.
Nevertheless, when the bike was not used for a considerable amount of time the sides of the cylinder and piston ring can be sort of corroded, not rusty like you have found on parts of the frame but sort of. There is no oil up there protecting it after a while. I rode my bike from a very rough engine to way smoother in 4.000 miles and much more comfortable in 3 to 4 thousand more. This is I think the effect of you reffing the bike idle and noticing resistance when refs drop. Or the weird change in experience with lower temperature and moisture in the night. So, why worry when you did not ride it much.
Check the oil level. You do that with bike standing straight up. Tie a mirror to the BQ cleaner.
Tires look new but also alike. Cupping is uneven in the length of the tread and can only be felt with the hand. It is caused by low tire pressure and I would not have it low like Manufacturer recommendation but rather as high as Tire recommendation. For some reason the Japanese want you back to the stealer. Some say the smooth ride sells these motorbikes. The infamous chunking of Metzelers is also caused by low tire pressure (among all possible tire damage) by the heat the soft tires are developing and being much sooner warmed up. Think about rubber flexing much and only wearing there where it flexes most. this will be just before the thread pattern. As a result many under inflated tires turn into cleat profile off-road tires.
Here is information that I kept as a reference:
QuoteMy bike is 350 Kg. I was at the town refuse or recycle dump. It should matter in tire pressure but on my 280 Kg Honda PC800 the tire would not get its intended shape any lower. The danger of high pressure is the tire loosing contact with the road, less braking and more chance of blowout. Blowouts are like imminent danger on bikes with inner tubes.For the Drifter 1500, the manual calls for FRONT = 28 psi; REAR - 36psi (215 lb loading), 40psi (403 lb loading). (Bridgestone and Dunlop)
Metzeler recognizes the owner manual pressures but make the following recommendations:
ME880 - Solo: F = 38-40 / R = 44-46 ; 2up-Light: F=40-42 / R=46-48 ; 2 up-heavy: F = 40-42 / R 48-50
Avon - recommendations...
Touring/Cruiser models: Solo: F = 34-38 / R = 38-40 ; 2up-Light: F=40-42 / R=40-42; 2up-Heavy: F=42 / R=42
I have had a too small amount of oil in the drive shaft gear. I suggest you check that soonest when changing fluids. Also with bike standing up. For coolant (old over time, not only with mileage) I highly recommend Honda Type 2 Coolant in 100 percent bottles (diluting to 50/50 in account to what flushing water must be left inside the engine. Honda adds metal protectors that are no silicates. Silicates wear seals out and shorten the life of the water pump. Especially with fast turning water pumps. Honda invented the coolant when the pumps of Goldwings prematurely failed. The specifications of Honda Type 2 coolant are high, both in boiling temperature and antifreeze characteristics. The maintenance interval being at least twice as long and the price half as much. Only the color is dull, sort of black with green and blue.
I bought final-drive oil from Yamalube but found this product to be identical to car gear oil in every aspect, sorry to say. Other brands would simply have been unaffordable. There is no tax in the country of Barry is there?
I have had better shifting and smoother ride with real motorbike oil and a thicker one according to the chart. Motul 5100, 15W50. Flush old cheaper oil and donate that to the poor. You are doing fine and we hope you are with us for quite some time. Greeting from The Netherlands
Posted by Tim
- July 14, 2016, 12:22:50 PMMan last time I drove that highway I was doing 140 when I passed a cop on the side of the road. He didn't even flinch.
I used to work as a pilot and honestly the most dangerous part of my job was the commute on the 401. I don't miss that one bit!
Posted by RockinRollin
- July 13, 2016, 05:10:49 AM Years ago when I was getting my motorcycle licence part of the test was to ride on the 401. The official speed limit on the 401 is 100 kmh , the unofficial speed limit is 120 - 125 kmh which is what you need to do in the fast lane or better otherwise someone will ride your tail. When I asked the instructor what speed should I do , the official or unofficial he said " You do whatever the traffic is travelling at in your lane" so I did and passed even though I was doing 20 kmh over the limit. I have been driving at 120 - 125 and have the police pass me. You won't get a ticket for 120 but for 130 you might. Most people will do 120 - 125 kmh in the fast lane. I have never earned a ticket for speeding on the 400 series highways (yet). 
Posted by Zoar
- July 12, 2016, 14:34:26 PMQuote from: RockinRonny on July 12, 2016, 12:36:14 PMYou will be getting a ticket on the mail....Somewhere else I read that a vibration problem was cured by adding a fuel controller. My bike used to vibrate a little when I was approaching 130 km an hour (80 mph) but when I added saddlebags which have heavy duty brackets the vibration has lessened. Go figure! Maybe something to do with changing the natural frequency of the bike by adding mass. In case anyone is wondering why I was doing 130 km an hour I was in the fast lane on the 401 and that's the speed that traffic was moving.
Posted by RockinRollin
- July 12, 2016, 12:36:14 PMSomewhere else I read that a vibration problem was cured by adding a fuel controller. My bike used to vibrate a little when I was approaching 130 km an hour (80 mph) but when I added saddlebags which have heavy duty brackets the vibration has lessened. Go figure! Maybe something to do with changing the natural frequency of the bike by adding mass. In case anyone is wondering why I was doing 130 km an hour I was in the fast lane on the 401 and that's the speed that traffic was moving.
Posted by rwantin
- July 12, 2016, 06:06:00 AMThis thread will go away eventually, I swear!
Gave it a big shot of Seafoam this morning, and a filter is on the way.
Observation that may be meaningful. I noted the washboard effect seemed diminished on the way in yesterday - it was in the upper 60's. On the way home, in near 90-degree temps, it was back in full force. Rode in this morning (about 70 out), and again, seemed to be lessened. So air temp appears to at least be some sort of factor. I'll stay the course with the Seafoam and new filter when I get it, does this suggest there may be some credence to a fueling issue?
Posted by rwantin
- July 11, 2016, 09:05:18 AMThanks a ton guys.
There's something I had not considered - I added some Techron to the first tank (always liked it for injection), so MAYBE as I'm burning through the gas, that could be the source of improvement. I am also a huge fan of Seafoam (always have a bottle or two around), so I'll try that. And a filter as well. The bike fired right up when I got it, but it could have sat for some time prior.
Understood on the presence and big thumps, it's just that the washboard effect was, at least early on, pretty severe. And wow, those miles are encouraging!
Appreciate it.
Posted by Troll
- July 11, 2016, 08:50:53 AMThis is still a v-2, so there is always going to be some "presence" to remind you of that. It's not an electric motor or an inline 4, so when you consider two 750cc cylinders doing the work, the thumps will always get through. These bikes are very smooth, especially above 2000 rpm. I rode H-Ds for 50 years, and this bike, with 106,000 miles on it, now, is smoother than even my rubber mount TourGlide when it was pretty new...absolutely no comparison with my solid mount FLs and FXs...
Posted by Pilgrim
- July 11, 2016, 08:46:29 AMtry changing the fuel filter and a big dose of sea foam to clean the injectors.