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Keep us updated.... Pics would be nice 
Just the answer I was looking for on this Drifter forum, Bucko. Still waiting on the new tensioner body gaskets, then it's "no excuse" time. Thanks.
I read through this thread very quickly so please forgive if I'm mentioning something that's already been dealt with.
I installed the extenders without moving the cross over tube. I remember it was very frustrating to get the front tensioner in and out but monkeying around with it will eventually achieve the desired results. the cross over tube can be loosened (I think all the junk on both sides has to come off) to make the job easier. And, as someone mentioned, ball end Allen keys really help. Seem to me that I couldn't get one of the screws as tight as it could be and I considered cutting the end off to make a really stubby a Allen key but in the end I was able to get the screw tight enough not to leak so that was good enough for me.
Do yourself a favor and buy good quality ones; I cheaped out and bought a cheap set, they do more damage than good. They rounded off, and also rounded the head out a bit in the bolt; luckily it was a common size and I didn't have to order it from planet Meringo in the XY galaxy......lol
Quote from: greenbarn on October 11, 2015, 19:55:24 PMThe ball ends are on my list, next trip to town.Can't help you with the air duct issue - I haven't had to do my timing chains yet. Although it's plenty noisy, I should take a look at it over the winter.
On the allen wrenches - I think ALL jobs (or very nearly all) are easier with the ball end allen wrenches!! I would highly recommend every bike owner having a set...
Quote from: Troll on October 11, 2015, 19:09:43 PMAs you suggested, I removed the spark plug tubes and they were unmarked, so no worries about the tensioners at this time. I was trying to avoid having to remove the intake manifold to add the extenders. If that's what it takes and the extenders were needed immediately, I'd dive into it, but with your help I found they aren't needed, yet. Since I found others who added the extenders w/o pulling the duct, no worries there either.The duct is easily moved once you remove the two air box backing plates...it just kind of lays there. There are 2 ways to get it out. Remove the intake manifold, or cut the duct. I cut mine and then got another one just in case I ever wanted (or whomever gets the bike from my estate) wants to put it back to stock configuration. I haven't checked the plungers on mine, since it runs quietly with just a hint of a valve train tick now and then...sleeping dogs, you know.
I just have a noisy engine, looking for causes, but not going to do any surgery until needed.
Quote from: 99tango on October 11, 2015, 18:44:59 PMCan't help you with the air duct issue - I haven't had to do my timing chains yet. Although it's plenty noisy, I should take a look at it over the winter.OK. The crossover air ducts are the same on most 1500 engines, at least the ones I checked. Also, I visited the Vulcan Baggers Forum and there are a lot of 1500 owners over there who have done the extenders with the crossover duct in place. All said it is doable, and easier if you purchase and use "ball" type allen wrenches to get in that tight space.
On the allen wrenches - I think ALL jobs (or very nearly all) are easier with the ball end allen wrenches!! I would highly recommend every bike owner having a set...
The duct is easily moved once you remove the two air box backing plates...it just kind of lays there. There are 2 ways to get it out. Remove the intake manifold, or cut the duct. I cut mine and then got another one just in case I ever wanted (or whomever gets the bike from my estate) wants to put it back to stock configuration. I haven't checked the plungers on mine, since it runs quietly with just a hint of a valve train tick now and then...sleeping dogs, you know.
OK. The crossover air ducts are the same on most 1500 engines, at least the ones I checked. Also, I visited the Vulcan Baggers Forum and there are a lot of 1500 owners over there who have done the extenders with the crossover duct in place. All said it is doable, and easier if you purchase and use "ball" type allen wrenches to get in that tight space.
Reo, I checked the screen when I switched back to 10/40 from 20/50 and it was clear of any debris.
Today, I pulled the spark plug tubes and they were both free of any scrape marks. I have the extenders and gaskets on the way and have a hard decision to make. Since the tensioners are within 1/16" of full extension, do I just ride it out or proceed with adding the extenders? According to the "Gadget" article, once you loosen up on the tensioner body hold down bolts, the assembly must be removed completely. I still haven't heard from anyone who has done the removal & replacement on a Drifter and don't know if the front one can be done with the air duct in place. Several have done it on their 1500 Mean Streaks but I don't know if the two different models have identical dog bowl and air duct setups.
Next step is to closely examine engine diagrams and part numbers on the two models and see if they match. If they do, I'll proceed with the job.
One more thing. Does anyone here know the torque down figure for the spark plug tubes??? I can't find it anywhere in the service manual.
Before you dig too deep, 99, you should drain the engine oil, then pull the oil pump screen to see how much, if any, metal you find. If something is failing, it might show itself in shed metal, which might give you an idea what is failing.
When Troll has over 100,000 miles and no chain issues, it seems odd that yours are worn that bad. Good luck, and keep us posted.
49
I'll look forward to any wisdom you can impart!
Quote from: pcarrell on October 07, 2015, 20:37:02 PMPhil, I'd "sorta" like be up to that challenge, the photos & write-up and all. All the parts are on the way, extenders, new gaskets, and the special 27mm hex tool to remove and check the spark plug inserts. I'm committed, just waiting on some positive feedback from someone with a Drifter who has attempted it with the blasted air duct in the way. Even posted the same question over in the Vulcan forum, where some have successfully done it on Mean Streaks. Not sure the Drifter is exactly set up like the Mean Streak though. If no one posts back to my satisfaction, I'll do a parts comparison between the two model Vulcans and see where that goes.99, I haven't tried it, so I can't help you there, however, if you end up doing this job I'd be real interested in how you go about it and what you find. Can I suggest a full on mod thread with lots of pics and full descriptions? I know one hasn't been properly done on the forum and it would be highly beneficial to have for reference. I don't think I'm far behind you in needing this, and if nothing else, it'd benefit me.
Difficulty is you must lay on your back to see and get at the front tensioners. Very little room to get a hex key in there and work those things in and out, and tedious. But chances are I'm gonna attempt it, and will put something together that may help someone else. I'll post updates on how this goes.
99, I haven't tried it, so I can't help you there, however, if you end up doing this job I'd be real interested in how you go about it and what you find. Can I suggest a full on mod thread with lots of pics and full descriptions? I know one hasn't been properly done on the forum and it would be highly beneficial to have for reference. I don't think I'm far behind you in needing this, and if nothing else, it'd benefit me.
49, I've tried different oils, all synthetic, 10/40 and 20/50, and really not much quieter either way. That engine is just a noisy critter, but has a new rattling sound that I believe may be the chain(s).
I had trouble enough just checking the travel depth remaining on the front tensioner because the Air Duct connecting the left & right dog bowls is in the way. The rear one was easy.
I don't want to try completely removing the front tensioner until someone on here verifies there's enough room to do it with the duct in place. According to "Gadget", there's a point of no return if you start backing out those allen head screws. Surely someone on here has tried it.
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